Crosscut or rip?????

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undergroundhunter

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Hi Guys n Gals,

Just looking for a little advice. I'm looking at buying a Veritas carcass saw but I'm torn as to weather to buy the crosscut first or the rip. I do have an old Marples pistol grip tenon saw that I have filled to a rip cut but the blade seems to bind slightly when cutting regardless of the set.

Opinions please.

Matt

P.S does anyone know of a good saw doctor in the Lincolnshire area as I want to get the Marples teeth recut by a pro.

Thanks in advance.
 
I would go for a crosscut, I have a lie nielsen carcass saw and i reach for it all the time. My dovetail rip saw, just when i do dovetails.
If i have a big tenon, i use a tenon saw.
I expect others will have different views
 
.


It really depend what you are going to use it for the greatest amount of time.

It's a matter of varying personal conviction depending who you talk to, but a cross-cut saw, intended for cross-grain cutting will probably cut down the grain better that a rip saw will cut across the grain, but if you intend cutting dovetails then a rip cut is much more accurate..... a rip saw is essential if you do tenons the old-fashioned way by hand.

Ideally, you probably need one of each!

However, I can vouch for the quality of the Veritas saws I have one (a 16 point cros-cut) and at the price they come in cheaper than most of their peers and perform very well indeed..... once you get accustomed to the 'unconventional' spine. They do wiegh in a little lighter than metal-backed saws, but that's a positive point with me.

All best

.
 
undergroundhunter":s0maipge said:
I do have an old Marples pistol grip tenon saw that I have filled to a rip cut but the blade seems to bind slightly when cutting regardless of the set.

That's odd - set increases the kerf, that's what it's for, and once the kerf is big enough, I don't see how the saw could bind.

BugBear
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I have taken it all on board and think I will go for the cross cut and get a rip at a later date.

BugBear - That was puzzling me, I thinking it just needs the teeth re-cutting and setting by a pro and I will take it from there. After all it cost me £10 from eBay but it's really nice in the hand and I'm sure it will work like a dream if cut/sharpened/set by a pro, just need to find one now.

Matt
 
I think the Veritas rip cut saws do quite well crosscut, because they have 14° RakeFleam. In old German schools, that is crosscut by itself.

Cheers Pedder

Edited due to Pauls correction, thanks for that, mate!
 
pedder":1aea3x8y said:
I think the Veritas rip cut saws do quite well crosscut, because they have 14° Fleam. In old German schools, that is crosscut by itself.

Cheers Pedder

Are you sure?

The LV website says (for the carcass saws):
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.a ... 68511&ap=1

The 12 tpi rip saw has a 10° rake angle and an included angle of 60° for efficient cutting parallel to the grain.

(I'm guessing zero fleam, unless you know different)

The 14 tpi crosscut saw has a rake angle of 15°, an included angle of 60°, and teeth filed with alternating 15° bevels so they sever wood fibers rather than tear them.

(so that 15° rake and 15° fleam)

Are we using the same words?

http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/ ... index.html

BugBear
 
Hi Paul,

Agghhhh Yes What I meant was rake. And I thought about the dovetail saw that uses 14° rake.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.a ... 68511&ap=1

To get my point clear: A saw without fleam cross cuts hardwoods better than a saw with 20° fleam does ripcuts. So a fleamless saw is more universal in my world. At least if it has as much rake as the Veritas saws.

Cheers Pedder
 
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