Corro Dip - If you were wondering.....

[Tony Spear]

It's beginning to look as though we need to have a whip-round to buy Jim samples of all the main contenders and try to persuade him to do a comparitive test for us! 8)

Having said that, I don't know what we would need to use as an incentive for Jim! :mrgreen:

 

[Tony Spear]

P.S. I notice that Axy do a Liberon rust remover, which they claim is also an inhibitor! :?

 

[jimi43]

I would be happy to do that Tony...price would be..you guys send me your tools to use as test items and I keep them! :mrgreen:

Corro Dipped tools seem to have a rather attractive greyish patination after treatment which seems to be resistant to rusting again. It certainly doesn't flash rust like electrolysis and the erosion of good steel is minimal as you get which I found wasn't the case with phosphoric acid.

Jim

 

[thick_mike]

I have done some work with phosphoric acid, electrolysis and the chelating rust removal. Although my results aren't Quantitative, I have made the following observations:

Electrolysis - easy to set up with minimal cost (old phone charger, two crocodile clips, tin can, spoon of bicarb.). Rust removal is good, leaves behind a black iron oxide coating which is prone to flash rusting if not coated immediately with oil. Needs plenty of polishing to restore a shiny surface if that's what you want.

Phosphoric acid - quick and effective, but needs to be watched as the acid doesn't distinguish much between rust and steel. This may be because I had access to conc. phosphoric acid. Leaves behind a grey coating which is robust and doesn't rust, but needs plenty of polishing to restore a shiny surface. Obviously some hazards associated with corrosive acids.

Chelating approach - fiddly or expensive, quick, good rust removal without etching the steel. Requires minimal polishing to leave a shiny surface. Not prone to flash rusting. Not particularly corrosive, but makes your microwave smell a bit temporarily.

Left a file in the chelating mix over the weekend to see what happens. The rust was removed, but there doesn't seem to have been any observable etching of the good steel underneath.

 

[jimi43]

My observations exactly Mike. Which is why I don't bother with any other system now. By heating the mixture...all but the worst rust disappears after only about 1 or 2 hours.

Jim

 

[The Bear]

Does it get rid of the worst rust if left longer?

Mark

 

[thick_mike]

Does it get rid of the worst rust if left longer?

Mark

I've used it on some pretty crappy examples and it's removed the lot. It's not a miracle though, it won't replace steel that has rusted away. Your really old tools may be pitted to hell under the rust and be unusable.

 

[Tony Spear]

I would be happy to do that Tony...price would be..you guys send me your tools to use as test items and I keep them! :mrgreen:
Jim

Are you sure you want a bloody great lump of cast iron? :roll:

Probably cost more to get it to you than it's worth! :shock:

 

[foxhunter]

I have just been in contact with Liquid Engineering and find that Corro-Dip is out of stock and will not be available for some weeks. A container apparently left Australia 9 weeks ago and was last heard of in Singapore!

They are encouraged by the reports in this thread and may consider making it available through various retail outlets.

 

[DTR]

I have just been in contact with Liquid Engineering and find that Corro-Dip is out of stock and will not be available for some weeks.

The Jimi Effect?

 

[AndyT]

I fear the container may be about to wash up on the Kent coast in the early morning - please all form an orderly queue!! :lol:

 

[Setch]

The chisel I treated had some relatively deep pitting in places, and i found the dip turned the rust in the pits black, but only at the surface - deep pits benefited from having the black scraped away to reveal more rust before going back in the jar.

 

[thick_mike]

The chisel I treated had some relatively deep pitting in places, and i found the dip turned the rust in the pits black, but only at the surface - deep pits benefited from having the black scraped away to reveal more rust before going back in the jar.

I've found the same. I soak the tool for about an hour, then give it a gentle brush with a Brass brush before soaking again for another hour.

When I take them out, give them another brush, rinse in water, then a squirt of WD40 or baby oil.

It's quite addictive. I'm looking in the back of all my cupboards, hoping to find something that's gone rusty!

 

[thick_mike]

I've never really had any good files, just picked them up from Aldi when they were on offer. I've also got a whole load of rusty files that I've acquired at the bottom of old toolboxes, so I thought what the hell...

Now I've got a set of pretty cool old files (Thomas Turton, Nicholson, Hale Bros, Firth) that are sharp and ready for action. Just need to get a couple of them in some solvent to get rid of the paint.

This stuff just keeps going, so far 1.5 litres has done 10 chisels, 15 files, 4 plane irons, 5 back saws, 2 sets of plough plane irons and 10 auger bits; need a new brass brush though.