Correcting a Startrite pressed steel bandsaw table

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YorkshireMartin":2wuxh7q3 said:
sunnybob":2wuxh7q3 said:
In the land of any thing is possible......

think of how concreters make shuttering. Make a 1/2" high shuttering around the table edge, pour in self levelling flooring screed. Once set, smooth it down to your acceptable limits. Then place a 3mm sheet of acryllic over it.

Once the acryllic shows significant wear, replace the sheet.
whacky, but possibly worth a try if the alternative is £5K

Very interesting you should say that as I discussed that very thing with a mate yesterday. Only came up because I've literally just finished tiling the hall so had some SLC left over. We thought that the self levelling compound would most likely fail to bond to the metal but weren't sure. It would come down to how level it can go and I'm not what tolerance you can work to with it.

Have you managed to do this successfully?

Havent needed to try, luckily.
But although this was just a throwaway idea, if you have no time constraints and like to experiment, i dont see why it cant work. A scuffing of the metal and maybe a smear of 2 part epoxy to it before laying the slc should help adhesion.

If you are considering a replacement table anyway, you have nothing to lose and possibly money to save.
 
From the photos it looks like the table is flat with a few holes underneath to mount. If this is the case, then for about £50 you should be able to get a laser cut piece of say 12mm cold rolled 235 plate (any grade will do, 235 is probably the cheapest c£400 / tonne at the mo.). If it's laser quality plate, it should be pickled and oiled (rust free, smooth surface) and for the size you need flat enough. Google laser cutting services, the chances are that it will use up an off cut of steel, so they will be happy to help. They will also cut the slot for the blade for you.
 
sunnybob":18ytlkdl said:
YorkshireMartin":18ytlkdl said:
sunnybob":18ytlkdl said:
In the land of any thing is possible......

think of how concreters make shuttering. Make a 1/2" high shuttering around the table edge, pour in self levelling flooring screed. Once set, smooth it down to your acceptable limits. Then place a 3mm sheet of acryllic over it.

Once the acryllic shows significant wear, replace the sheet.
whacky, but possibly worth a try if the alternative is £5K

Very interesting you should say that as I discussed that very thing with a mate yesterday. Only came up because I've literally just finished tiling the hall so had some SLC left over. We thought that the self levelling compound would most likely fail to bond to the metal but weren't sure. It would come down to how level it can go and I'm not what tolerance you can work to with it.

Have you managed to do this successfully?

Havent needed to try, luckily.
But although this was just a throwaway idea, if you have no time constraints and like to experiment, i dont see why it cant work. A scuffing of the metal and maybe a smear of 2 part epoxy to it before laying the slc should help adhesion.

If you are considering a replacement table anyway, you have nothing to lose and possibly money to save.

It's a decent idea but I have to say that despite using Mapei for the hall, whilst it did "level" the surface flat, it didn't level in terms of coverage. I did aireate it with a spiked roller etc and the mixture was reasonably precise. Thats what put me off, along with the issue of bonding to the metal. Also, it was kind of irreversible.
 
deema":3ilj37tz said:
From the photos it looks like the table is flat with a few holes underneath to mount. If this is the case, then for about £50 you should be able to get a laser cut piece of say 12mm cold rolled 235 plate (any grade will do, 235 is probably the cheapest c£400 / tonne at the mo.). If it's laser quality plate, it should be pickled and oiled (rust free, smooth surface) and for the size you need flat enough. Google laser cutting services, the chances are that it will use up an off cut of steel, so they will be happy to help. They will also cut the slot for the blade for you.

Thanks for this, I will keep it in mind if this MDF top fails to produce the desired results. I might even overlay metal on to it, once I know I have a precise surface to get a datum.

I'm guessing you know someone who can do this? Chester isn't a million miles away.
 
I can help with pointing you in the right direction, PM if you decide to go this route.
 

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