Correct use of the skew.

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Random Orbital Bob

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Morning all

I'm new to this forum but not to wood. Have a life long love of the stuff. I've flirted with turning a few times over the years but last Autumn got more serious and tooled up properly. I've produced bowls, natural edge pieces, boxes, and plenty of between centre stuff using gouges and skews for beads. What I can't seem to get my head round is the skew for an planing cut between centres. Can anyone point me in the direction of the "best" YouTube tutorial or other resources I could use to help direct my learning please?

I'm not wildly keen to spend a hefty sum having one to one training for just this one technique

Thanks in advance

Rob
 
Use the bottom third or quarter of the skew and practice slowly moving from rubbing the bevel to bringing the cut on. You should start to see dust or very fine shavings around the bottom point of the skew as the cut comes on. Then practice the planing cut, where you move along the grain, keeping the angle of the skew to the wood the same (there is a tendency to alter this as your body moves further along the cut). If you keep the bevel on and the cut at the bottom, to shouldn't get any catches. Theoretically.
 
Look for the Alan Batty skew chisel video not sure if its on DVD or on youtube but IMO its the best video of the correct use and variety of uses of a skew chisel
 
hello and welcome,
Planing with the skew I can do, beads with a skew still frighten me.
As above, use only the bottom third or so of the cutting edge, maintaining about a 45 degree angle to the direction of cut, rest bevel on work and slowly raise handle till it starts to cut and then plane away.
I found i had two obstacles in my way. The first was my tool rest was not high enough, I find it easier with the rest well above the centre of the work. and secondly I had a very short/ steep bevel. This was not apparent until I went along to a club and there were exclamations as to how on earth i managed to plane anything! A quick hit on the grinder and a shallower bevel and what a revelation, so much easier.
You could always, as i did many moons ago, film yourself skewing, post it on youtube then post a link here and ask 'what am i doing wrong??' This is how i found out my rest was too low :)
Let us know how you get on.
 
Hi Rob,
Nev makes a good point about the bevel. It's not just about the length of it though - Eli Avisera advocates a convex, rather than hollow, ground bevel and I find that this can make the skew easier to control too.

http://www.hamletcrafttools.co.uk/elitools.html

I think that in practice this is probably closer to the grinds used by the old pole-lathe turners than the grinds we would normally use now. The problem with this grind is that it is not really compatible with grinding jigs but is a cinch freehand - just slide the skew up and down the wheel and then if you want to, hone the last mm of cutting edge on each side.

I'd also keep the speed down to about 1000 RPM or less when planing - I find this helps minimize the ribbing caused by tool bounce. Also remove all the dings from your toolrest by draw-filing and waxing it.

HTH
Jon
 
chipmunk":3it5vfdc said:
Hi Rob,
Nev makes a good point about the bevel. It's not just about the length of it though - Eli Avisera advocates a convex, rather than hollow, ground bevel and I find that this can make the skew easier to control too.

http://www.hamletcrafttools.co.uk/elitools.html

Jon

I seem to remember hearing recently that it's now Ashley Iles that are producing Eli's tools.
 
I don't know if they are the best but...
Here is one by John Lucas, planning is in the first section.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vA91yJ9KhKU

Here is one that shows the importance of body movement...skip over to about 1 min 45 seconds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qT0Lp0AtMo8

Like others I move the tool rest way up for planning. For a 2" or less I have the rest about 10:30 and cut about 11:30; the blade is almost flat.
 
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