Confused and in need of advice with workbench build

[Jim_Nutt]

Hi all,

I've been watching the Paul Sellers workbench videos for quite a while now and have started on the project (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9W9xQS-EdQ&t=1872s). The table top pieces are all new timber bought from Travis Perkins and I've cut them to length and am on to the planing section in order to make the pieces marry up nicely for the laminations.

I've been using a no. 4 plane as in the video but it's become clear that I don't have the skill to get such a long piece of timber flat, as when I put them together they're not meeting up nicely even with clamps on.

As much as I appreciate the art, skill and practice of using hand tools (and really enjoyed the actual planing bit), I would like to get some relatively quick and accurate results without having to develop my hand plane skills at this stage.

What do you advise for my next step and which power tool/s would be best for me to move forwards with this? I have a bit of money I can spend but don't know whether to go for:

A table saw - and make a jointing jig https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rgfrHyJ6i0&t=170s, or
A planer / thicknesser, or
a combination of the above?

Any advice will be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Jim

 

[Rorschach]

If you are planning to work with handtools, why not buy a longer plane? Whenever I am trying to flatten a peice of wood I use my number 5 which works well enough for my needs.

 

[Jim_Nutt]

If you are planning to work with handtools, why not buy a longer plane? Whenever I am trying to flatten a peice of wood I use my number 5 which works well enough for my needs.

I did wonder this but assumed I'd just have the same issue with my poor planing abilities. This could be a cheaper option for me to try though, thanks.

 

[skipdiver]

I'd persevere with the hand plane if i were you and it will get easier the more you use it. Invest in a good hand plane instead of machinery. You are going to have to flatten the top with a hand plane once you get it all glued up, so get yourself a nice No 5 or 5 1/2 and keep piling up those shavings.

 

[Rorschach]

A longer plane does make it easier. Have a think about what you plan to do in the future. Do you have friends or forum members nearby? It could be worth getting someone to true up the boards for you.

 

[kevinlightfoot]

It probably isn't your inability to plane an edge suitable for jointing using a short plane like number four ,a short plane will simply follow the undulation in the edge you are planing,you really need a long plane the longer the better.I would use a number seven if you could get hold of one or maybe borrow one if you do not envisage doing much of this type of edge jointing.You have surely heard the old saying that a bad workman always blames his tools well maybe it should be that a good workman tends to choose the correct tool and recognises when a tool just isn't up to the job in hand.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

As you already have a No.4 it might be good move to look for a No.5 1/2 or a No.6 (or even a No.7) rather than a No.5 - a bit further away from the one you already have.

 

[MrTeroo]

When I made my version of that bench I used a no 6 and it worked well for me with limited skill set.

I don't think I could have done it with a number4

 

[Ttrees]

I'd rather get a..... 1, RIGID as in (no deflection)
2, FLAT, ( to be used as reference and will be respected )
'and 3, STABLE ( meaning it won't warp and you can trust it, if you build a base for it to lay upon )
fire door from a skip or the dump.....
And use it for reference and make a 4 SECURE bench, ( meaning it won't move when you are planing )
much easier being able to "candle" with an angle poise light behind, or other good source underneath.
This plate should not be pinched down too tightly to whatever frame you make, so it remains flat.
this doesn't mean you can't make it secure though.
You can clamp a batten up for planing.

This reference surface, I think will speed up things tremendously and make things a lot more sensible.

There are other subtle techniques aswell as candling, like tapping on each corner of the work, to make sure
you know all corners are sitting on the bench top at the ends... or a similar method,
but for laminating thick planks would be...

Grasping an end, try to turn the timber like a propeller, if it pivots from the end instead, it will sit more stable
If it turns like a propeller, its high in the middle, so shave off the high spots ...with a no 5 1/2

Another thing to do if your very close to your final dimension, and scared you will take too much off, is ...
covering a section in crayon and rubbing the work on the bench to reveal the high spots.
This will teach you the plane will only cut the high spots ....
This process is like an engineering technique "lapping with prussian blue"

Good luck
Tom

 

[Jim_Nutt]

Thanks everyone for your quick responses; they’re really helpful and much appreciated.

Just looking at planes and noticed that the Stanley no. 7 is also referred to as a jointer plane. Think I’ll take a punt with one of those for now and see how I get on.

Fingers crossed!

Jim

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you have a No4 and a No.7 it will be a long time (if ever) before you NEED anything else. They're all nice to have, but over and above that pair they're pretty much luxuries and besides many would say you're better off getting really used to one or two. Don't forget there's nothing wrong with Records or Marples (or pretty much anything more than 30years old. ).

 

[Roughcut]

Probably not text book but I find a number 4 plane good for knocking off the high spots and then use a no.6 for flattening longer timbers.
You could invest in a second hand no. 6 or 7 from ebay etc. and then sell it on if you won't use it much afterwards.

 

[pollys13]

Some might turn their noses up, you can get a Faithfull No 7 jointer on Amazon for £44.15. Has several good reviews, couple perhaps not so good. If got a naff one could probably return for refund. The other Faithfull planes have good reviews too. I think I read a Paul Sellers article about budget planes, quite favorable. Also saw this http://lumberjocks.com/topics/48649

 

[Bod]

Hi all,

I've been watching the Paul Sellers workbench videos for quite a while now and have started on the project (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9W9xQS-EdQ&t=1872s). The table top pieces are all new timber bought from Travis Perkins and I've cut them to length and am on to the planing section in order to make the pieces marry up nicely for the laminations.

I've been using a no. 4 plane as in the video but it's become clear that I don't have the skill to get such a long piece of timber flat, as when I put them together they're not meeting up nicely even with clamps on.

Any advice will be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Jim

When clamped up(without glue) mark up where the high spots are, unclamp, plane off the high spots only, reclamp, mark-up high spots unclamp,..etc.
Work only with 2 planks at a time. It will take time, but your learning all the time.

Bod