Coley style window
- Thread starter johnnyb
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johnnyb
Established Member
Ok we have a frame( at last) I've remade the uprights and sawed them more carefully this time! Using a spacer on the table saw and a fence spacer on the band saw. I cleaned up everything with a bench plane and a rebate plane. I must say the new redwood was much nicer than the first chunk just less resinous it finished even through the planer beautifully although it didn't smell as nice as the first chunk. I've drilled for the screws and countersunk. I'll glue it together using titebond 3. It's a really chunky frame and very heavy. I'll put a mortar groove in tomorrow using the dado on the table saw.
A bit of light reading care of coley to bone up on casement making!
Just an aside to anyone considering making this frame sawing the shoulders with a tenon saw would be very doable. Unsorted redwood when it's good is really good. It planes like butter and gleams. I can imagine making sashes by hand would be nice using this stuff.
Jb
A bit of light reading care of coley to bone up on casement making!
Just an aside to anyone considering making this frame sawing the shoulders with a tenon saw would be very doable. Unsorted redwood when it's good is really good. It planes like butter and gleams. I can imagine making sashes by hand would be nice using this stuff.
Jb
johnnyb
Established Member
Rereading coleys post I seem to have missed a few bits. Ie coley makes his tenon's smaller to conceal his gaps( how did I miss this?)
I'm also understanding what you did with the angled cill cut and the pair of compasses!
I think I tend to scan stuff quickly then crack on. On second reading after doing it wrong( differently) I completely understand.
I'm also understanding what you did with the angled cill cut and the pair of compasses!
I think I tend to scan stuff quickly then crack on. On second reading after doing it wrong( differently) I completely understand.
johnnyb
Established Member
Just worked out the price of my unsorted redwood it was £20 per cubic foot inclusive. Seems expensive to me but the other yards wanted more. It was a 9×3 by 15ft lump.
I've glued up this morning. I didn't use titebond I used a great product for repairing Timber called repaircare. It's a thin epoxy followed by a thick epoxy that's quite rubbery.
It's used for repairs and splicing but 1 I've got some and I'm sure it goes off 2. It works by strongly adhering to both timbers then bridging the Gap with a flexible product. I reckon it might be a good choice.
3. Usually you use loads but gluing a window will use hardly any.
4. Repaircare offer a 10 year guarantee on repairs.i bet no one's ever claimed on that one.
5.i can dribble the thin stuff in a crack in the cill.
I've used the thin stuff as glue before and it stains and won't unstain. Its water thin.
I've glued up this morning. I didn't use titebond I used a great product for repairing Timber called repaircare. It's a thin epoxy followed by a thick epoxy that's quite rubbery.
It's used for repairs and splicing but 1 I've got some and I'm sure it goes off 2. It works by strongly adhering to both timbers then bridging the Gap with a flexible product. I reckon it might be a good choice.
3. Usually you use loads but gluing a window will use hardly any.
4. Repaircare offer a 10 year guarantee on repairs.i bet no one's ever claimed on that one.
5.i can dribble the thin stuff in a crack in the cill.
I've used the thin stuff as glue before and it stains and won't unstain. Its water thin.
johnnyb
Established Member
Just worked out the price of my unsorted redwood it was £20 per cubic foot inclusive. Seems expensive to me but the other yards wanted more. It was a 9×3 by 15ft lump.
I've glued up this morning. I didn't use titebond I used a great product for repairing Timber called repaircare. It's a thin epoxy followed by a thick epoxy that's quite rubbery.
It's used for repairs and splicing but 1 I've got some and I'm sure it goes off 2. It works by strongly adhering to both timbers then bridging the Gap with a flexible product. I reckon it might be a good choice.
3. Usually you use loads but gluing a window will use hardly any.
4. Repaircare offer a 10 year guarantee on repairs.i bet no one's ever claimed on that one.
5.i can dribble the thin stuff in a crack in the cill.
I've used the thin stuff as glue before and it stains and won't unstain. Its water thin.
I've glued up this morning. I didn't use titebond I used a great product for repairing Timber called repaircare. It's a thin epoxy followed by a thick epoxy that's quite rubbery.
It's used for repairs and splicing but 1 I've got some and I'm sure it goes off 2. It works by strongly adhering to both timbers then bridging the Gap with a flexible product. I reckon it might be a good choice.
3. Usually you use loads but gluing a window will use hardly any.
4. Repaircare offer a 10 year guarantee on repairs.i bet no one's ever claimed on that one.
5.i can dribble the thin stuff in a crack in the cill.
I've used the thin stuff as glue before and it stains and won't unstain. Its water thin.
johnnyb
Established Member
The reason it seemed expensive was the same yard sold 9×1 par for £1 a foot. The 9×3 is 2.50 a foot. I imagine they would get 3 9×1 from this. So to deep rip and plane allround there charging .17p a foot.
Chip shop
Established Member
They won't get 3 number 9 by 1 out of a piece of 9 by 3...especially if it's to be PAR. I'd imagine, even if they've got a Gucci re-saw, the best they can expect is 2.
Even if they could somehow make up for the saw kerf, 17p a foot for re-sawing and chucking it through the 4-cutter doesn't seem unreasonable.
Even if they could somehow make up for the saw kerf, 17p a foot for re-sawing and chucking it through the 4-cutter doesn't seem unreasonable.
johnnyb
Established Member
I was reckoning my 9×3 was a bit pricey. It's probably a recurring theme in any of my posts! It's something i can't really change so why it bothers me I've no idea! There resaw was a slightly dodgy Robinson btw!
Chip shop
Established Member
If I buy 9 * 3 * 15ft a couple at a time I pay about £36 + vat per length.
Where I did my apprenticeship 95% of any joinery they made was softwood. Even though the majority was done with machines I'd spend days fitting/scribing door and window moulds. I use to enjoy doing single glazed windows the most with multiple panes. It was always good after cutting & scribing each vertical glazing bar (between the horizontals) then see everything close up tight when it was assembled. I found it a bit of a leap changing over to hardwood but now I find that easier to work with- probably because I'm more familiar with it now.johnnyb":mu3x08ju said:
Keep the progress reports coming !
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johnnyb
Established Member
I'm just casting around for a suitable arrangement to mould, rebate and mortice my casements. The router cutters I've got are based on 45degrees normal ogees and roundovers. These are only going into my 42mm casements about 7mm which leaves the mortises to close to the moulded edge. Also it leaves a 23mm×7mm rebate bit to deep. Will this cause problems? I can see why Grecian flat ogees are used as they can be 8mm deep but push the mortice and tenon further toward the middle. Sash making bits aren't that pricey but I guess I could use a bigger cutter that goes in 10-12mm and have stepped shoulders.
Like you say a bigger ovolo would help push the mortise over. Its not an issue as all yours are fixed but If you were having them open you'd just need to make sure there was a big enough flat for the casement fastener to screw on.
It's a bit more work (and will test your setting up skills lol) but how about a small ovolo cutter than increasing it slightly with a second cut.
It'd save getting another cutter and might allow you to still have square shoulders.
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It's a bit more work (and will test your setting up skills lol) but how about a small ovolo cutter than increasing it slightly with a second cut.
It'd save getting another cutter and might allow you to still have square shoulders.
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johnnyb
Established Member
I'll run one like you say a nice combination will allow straight shoulders. What is an ideal glazing rebate. I think yours were 7 by 18. I should manage this if I extend to about 12mm. That will be 12.5mortice + 18 rebate=11.5mm mould about 7mm deep. I'll try it out tomorrow. Cheers coley
Jb
Jb
johnnyb
Established Member
The trouble with ready made cutters is there designed for certain sizes usually a bit thinner I think. At least this way I can make it work.
I don't think there's really an ideal glazing rebate for single glazed putty. The bedding in on putty and panel pins alone should prevent the glass falling out. I think you've kind of sussed out the reason already for the dimensions. Ive never seen single glazed casements any thicker than ex 2 inch (44-45mm) but have seen them as thin as 35mm. A half inch tennon fairly centrally spaced allows for a decent strength joint, the rest is just working to that. I guess having putty at a reasonably steep angle helps draw the water away more effeciently.johnnyb":2asfn029 said:
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johnnyb
Established Member
I haven't abandoned just I've had to do some paying work heaven forbid! As soon as that's done I'll be back on it. Just finished painting the frame. I treated it with Sika wood preserver(water based) bin sealer on the knots. Pre 2010 primer(actually sets) oil based. Then crown grey undercoat ( new stuff) terrible never sets. I had some pre 2010 undercoat( just run out) and it's great it provide a great build and is very easily flatted. The top coat will be little Greene oil gloss. This stuff is really nice very opaque and has a lovely gloss. It also takes for ever dry
