CNC'd MFT top, Parf guide or Trend jig?

[Ollie78]

The only problem with this I thought, was that I'm relying on the factory edges of the sheet being square. I was thinking I'd need a a long set of dog holes in order to give me a long straight square cut I could rely upon.

I normally just rip a tiny bit off one edge to clean it up, then do my parallel rip to the width I want. Then trim the ends square after, of course if you actually need the very full length of the sheet you can`t trim the ends square after, find mostly I don`t need the full 2440.

Ollie

 

[PerryGunn]

I want a large bench around 2.6m x 1.4m. My workshop is a double garage so I've plenty of room, and I'm currently using a bench thats the size of a full sheet of 18mm hardwood ply. My original plan was to inset pre-CNC'd MFT tops at opposite ends of the bench. Giving me the option of running a 3m rail from a dog inserted in each MFT top. However it's now occurring to me that I will have to align those tops perfectly, otherwise at a distance of ~2.4m it'll be easy to go out of straight/square.

Can I make a suggestion...

If you have an MFT at one end and route one or two 20mm slots in the bench at the other end, when you need to use a long rail you can align it using the dog holes on the MFT (if you use raildogs it'll be clamped firmly in line with those dogholes) then you can clamp a block flush to the rail at the other end using the 20mm slots).

Would that be accurate enough for ripping down full sheets?

 

[Spectric]

I am also looking at making some sort of worktop with holes but will also be putting in some dovetail slots to take the matchfit system as well, best of both worlds and using a Parf 11 system to place the holes but will not be covering the board with as many holes as can be fitted in. I do question if they are really needed and so will be placing round the perimeter and a horizontal and vertical row and double space a lot of the holes. This I believe will reduce any evidence of accumulated errors and along with the matchfit clamps be more versatile than just a normal worktop with holes.

 

[billw]

The more I watch the videos of the Parf Mk2 the more I think I'm just going to use it. It seems to be eejit-proof even for me.

One Q I have is how does he put all the chamfers in?

 

[marcros]

The more I watch the videos of the Parf Mk2 the more I think I'm just going to use it. It seems to be eejit-proof even for me.

One Q I have is how does he put all the chamfers in?

there is another tool for that. UJK Chamfer Tool

 

[Spectric]

Looking at the Parf 2 system it is probably the best means to make these holes and to quote MikeK

I am a hobbyist and do not make any money from my projects; therefore, I do not factor my time into any of my tool and jig fabrication...it is part of the journey for me. For those interested, it took me about three hours to cut 200 holes using the Parf Mk2, and this was the first time I have ever done a project like this.

As a special tool, the Parf Guide Mk2 is a one-trick pony and has no other uses once the top is made. However, it was less expensive than paying for questionable machining, is easy to use, is accurate, and is easy to store until needed for the next bench top.

I think in one of the videos demonstating this system they clamp the bar down before drilling holes and do not just rely on the pins which makes sense. By the way Mike that was almost a hole per minute (Hpm).

 

[Raymien]

Can I make a suggestion...

If you have an MFT at one end and route one or two 20mm slots in the bench at the other end, when you need to use a long rail you can align it using the dog holes on the MFT (if you use raildogs it'll be clamped firmly in line with those dogholes) then you can clamp a block flush to the rail at the other end using the 20mm slots).

Would that be accurate enough for ripping down full sheets?

That’s actually a very good point. The benchdogs rail dogs are on my shopping list (along with their fence system) and as you say, attaching a long rail with dogs at one end (as far apart as you can get them) should theoretically keep the rail straight/square with some clamping at the other end.

In terms of jigs, I think the parf mark 2 is definitely the best one out there, it’s just so darned expensive for something that’ll get so little use after the first top is made. If it was nearer £100 I think I’d have bought it already

The other thread on here about a rentable kit for me seems like a great idea. With the right protection measures in place for the owner of the kit, it could be perfect for people in my situation. If the forum moderators would allow it, I’m even tempted to buy one myself for others to use.

 

[MikeK]

I think in one of the videos demonstating this system they clamp the bar down before drilling holes and do not just rely on the pins which makes sense. By the way Mike that was almost a hole per minute (Hpm).

I never considered the Hpm rate.

I did clamp the rule down before I started drilling the first holes on the X and Y axis, but the mistake I made with the first rows was to rely on my eyesight and the 0.5mm pencil line in the 3mm holes. It seemed accurate at the time, but after I was finished, I was not so confident. The grid was perfect, but the entire grid pattern was rotated slightly on the top.

The error was about 1mm over the 2-meter length and it was uniform around the table. Fortunately, this was an easy fix by making a new edge reference relative to the dog holes and trimming the edges with the tracksaw. The added benefit to this was the top was now slightly recessed from the outer edge of the 40x80mm extrusion and I can safely clamp items to the side without worrying about interfering with the edge of the top.

Next time, I'll use a knife to mark the center line for the holes within the 20mm boundary and hopefully reduce the error. It would be nice if the rules had small V-notches in the ends to aid in alignment with an extended reference line. Maybe the Mk3 will have this.

 

[billw]

If (when) I get the Parf system I'll happily lend it out.

 

[Distinterior]

Here is the thread I think Sammy.se was referring to....

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/need-a-custom-made-mft-top.126647/
The CNC guy that I use is just outside Colchester, so not too far to come down from Norwich...??

 

[Raymien]

Here is the thread I think Sammy.se was referring to....

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/need-a-custom-made-mft-top.126647/
The CNC guy that I use is just outside Colchester, so not too far to come down from Norwich...??

Thanks, I’ll check it out

 

[Wayside2020]

I’m a hobbyist too, so time isn’t really an issue with making one, as I’m making the rest of the bench too.
I need dog holes suitable to cut a full sheet lengthways, squarely, so my options are to build my own where I can cut holes anywhere I want, or buy two ‘pre made’ ones and fit them at opposite ends of the bench. I’m leaning towards a jig, as I can then add any parts to the bench over time, but it’s the accuracy that concerns me so I was looking to see what others thought about using a jig.

@marcros The Mark 2 parf jig is £200, but the Mark 1 is £140 at the moment.

Hi
i didn’t use a jig, I bought a replacement MFT top from FFX and then used that as a template guide the full length of a sheet of MDF.
I bought a cheap drill press from Axminster (£19) to drill the holes then cleaned them to exact side with a straight router bit with a guide. I still have the MFT top to use as a portable bench.

 

[emlclcy]

what about buying a pre drilled top then transfer drilling to make a template for future tops? maybe make it from 18gauge ali?

 

[pe2dave]

@Raymien OK, for longer pieces, agreed. I have an 'extension' for such cases, allows the use of a 1400 or 2800 track. My constraint is 'normal' working space, hence my selection of 'one' bought in MFT.

I used CNC Design | CNC Design - Wrexham. I'm s

I want a large bench around 2.6m x 1.4m. My workshop is a double garage so I've plenty of room, and I'm currently using a bench thats the size of a full sheet of 18mm hardwood ply. My original plan was to inset pre-CNC'd MFT tops at opposite ends of the bench. Giving me the option of running a 3m rail from a dog inserted in each MFT top. However it's now occurring to me that I will have to align those tops perfectly, otherwise at a distance of ~2.4m it'll be easy to go out of straight/square.



The only problem with this I thought, was that I'm relying on the factory edges of the sheet being square. I was thinking I'd need a a long set of dog holes in order to give me a long straight square cut I could rely upon.

1. Hole alignment - do it once - using the tracks, should be good as the time you invest.
2. Factory edges. Youtube shows users trimming these to get a true edge. Either a 3m track or 2 off 1.4m.

At 2.4m, I would suggest the track and tape is as convenient as MFT's? At least for those initial long cuts.

 

[NormanB]

The more I watch the videos of the Parf Mk2 the more I think I'm just going to use it. It seems to be eejit-proof even for me.

One Q I have is how does he put all the chamfers in?

But only in you follow the instructions particularly starting out at the middle of the table and working to the ends to avoid cumulative error possible if you start at the end.

 

[picsnbits]

I’m a real amateur in the woodworking world so I welcome all the help I can get!
I wanted a MFT top but doubted my skills so I bought the Axminster base and a blank top then drilled a full set of dog holes using the Mk1 Peter Parfitt system (also from Axi).
Did a five cut test. Worked!! Repeated it using a different combination of dog holes. Still as good as I can measure. Astonished and delighted. Go Parfitt - it works.

 

[Raymien]

If I bought one MFT replacement top, and then using a flush trim bit cut a line of holes in a blank piece of MDF at the other end of the table, how accurate do you think it would b

Hi
i didn’t use a jig, I bought a replacement MFT top from FFX and then used that as a template guide the full length of a sheet of MDF.
I bought a cheap drill press from Axminster (£19) to drill the holes then cleaned them to exact side with a straight router bit with a guide. I still have the MFT top to use as a portable bench.

How accurate was this and how well to the holes compare to the CNC one?

Potentially I could buy one MFT top from a CNC company, and then use this to add holes elsewhere on the bench with a flush trim bit in the router?

 

[billw]

But only in you follow the instructions particularly starting out at the middle of the table and working to the ends to avoid cumulative error possible if you start at the end.

Interestingly I was looking at this earlier and my first conclusion was find the middle point and work out from there. It'll only be a 12x6 layout so very little opportunity for errors to multiply.

 

[Chippyjoe]

If I bought one MFT replacement top, and then using a flush trim bit cut a line of holes in a blank piece of MDF at the other end of the table, how accurate do you think it would b


How accurate was this and how well to the holes compare to the CNC one?

Potentially I could buy one MFT top from a CNC company, and then use this to add holes elsewhere on the bench with a flush trim bit in the router?

Hi,

If it is of any use, I have a new unused MFT top which you could borrow to mark one out. I have a MFT table which I will be selling very soon so will have no use for the spare top.
I am just the other side of Dereham so could drop it round sometime if that helps ?

Mark.

 

[Spectric]

I did clamp the rule down before I started drilling the first holes on the X and Y axis, but the mistake I made with the first rows was to rely on my eyesight and the 0.5mm pencil line in the 3mm holes. It seemed accurate at the time, but after I was finished, I was not so confident. The grid was perfect, but the entire grid pattern was rotated slightly on the top.

Hi

Started some holes but not at your speed Mike, and took on board the issue you had so used a rule with a stop to set the first parf rule in place from the edge of the board and the 3mm holes were drilled at that location, no pencil lines to see.