CNC Machine

[steve355]

My first GCODE.

You may laugh but it’s been a long journey to get this far. I spent the day today mostly m ironing out issues with steps and related to the fact that it’s basically a metric machine, but I want to run it in imperial. 1 inch is 25.4 times 1 mm, which is quite enough to cause a problem with almost every parameter in the system, and cause the machine to literally go off the rails.

Plus I am completely new to CNC, and it’s a whole subject in its own right.

I have to say, the modern zero backlash ballscrews are a total revelation. I can see myself fitting them to my old machines, which all have appalling backlash and worn lead screws.

I will get some proper Gcode running tomorrow.

 

[steve355]

Myrtle is the wife’s cat.

 

[Ollie78]

It lives !! Good job, it seems like a successful build.

 

[steve355]

It lives !! Good job, it seems like a successful build.

Thanks Ollie, yeah, basically working. Long way to go still though!

 

[steve355]

The final destination for my CNC machine, I’ve repurposed the camping equipment shelves I still need to sort out some drag chains etc for it.

 

[Steve Mehrlich]

steve im interested to see how you're getting on with your cnc machine? does it do what you hoped it would?

chjeers

 

[steve355]

Hi Steve

I’d say it does. The metal engraving is fantastic (using a diamond drag bit), and as a router it works very well for cutting out shapes from flat stock, milling holes and chamfering etc.

Obviously, without an auto change facility, the process is long winded, having to change bits and set Z height for individual operations. But it works.

I have not needed to upgrade the bed yet. Using MDF provides enough additional stiffness for routing purposes. I’m sure that wouldn’t be true for milling more complex parts in metal, which I will probably move onto next.

Going back to manual machining after CNC machining will be a struggle.

Steve

 

[Steve Mehrlich]

thats good to hear. i dont have a tool change on mine but set up a limit switch sat vertically which i then run a probing macro to set tool height. whilst the changing of the bit is still manual, setting its length is about as close to automatic as it can be.
im currently running through 17 oak chopping boards with my zero just clipping the masking tape on each one so it certainly works if youre setting your zero to the bed rather than the top of the material.

cheers

 

[curryjunkie]

Dial indicators seem to mate and breed in my shed. The current plan is to get a bed laser-cut in steel to give it some decent rigidity. The current bed is less flimsy than I expected , but still too flimsy. I’m sure I can find a way to level it, but at first at least I’m just wanting to rout brass and steel, so I was planning on using a sacrificial piece of plywood, which would rule out coolant, initially.

I just got a basic spindle to start with. I’ll see how it goes. All my experience of machining says it’ll cook the metal (which for a heat hardening steel is not a useful thing), and I’m fully expecting to end up with a slow spindle, and coolant. But there are plenty of YouTube videos of people cutting metal with the kind of setup I’ve specced. We will see. It’s possible that with light cuts, high feed rates, and a small end mill, it might work.

I’ll see how far I get with the wiring tomorrow. I think there are lots of sockets and things I need to order which will slow it all down - but overall it looks like a pretty easy project. Famous last words…

You can make up fixture plates out of delrin or similar, maybe mist coolant instead of flood? May be less mess, looks good value as a kit, I'd never have the skill or patience to do it, I got mine off the shelf