Cleaning rust off thicknesser bed

[Philw]

Hello all, wondering how I should go about cleaning down and lubricating my new (second hand) metabo HC260c thicknesser bed.
It has apparently been sat in a garage for 5+ years and so the bed is rusty and wood is getting stuck.

Thanks in advance.

 

[eribaMotters]

Last summer year we moved to Devon and have experienced condensation and rust issues for the first time.
Previously I have been in the practice of treating odd spots with 400 grit paper and a spot of thin oil, wipe off with white spirit and a wax. This has in the past lasted a year or two, but no more.
After a recent post I was directed towards something called ACF-50 and Machine Wax. I bought the latter from Axminster, via e-bay shop as it was cheaper. The wax seems to have done the job.
Have a look at this thread:- Rust on machine tables

Colin

 

[sams93]

It doesn't look terrible at all. No pitting etc just light rust. I would probably just hit it with some 4000 grit wet and dry then protect it with something like this (Liberion Lubricating Wax) which will keep it smooth and stop the rust forming.

I just restored a kity planer and the thicknesser bed was in a terrible state. I took it off and bathed it in some Restore Rust Remover, took 2 days and LOTS of scrubbing with a wire brush in-between soakings but it worked excellently. If you are thinking of taking it out to do a proper job on it then I would reccomend the stuff, have to find an appropriate sized container to submerge the bed in though. Then I would cover it with the same wax I reccomended in the first paragraph.

I'll attach photos of before, mid, and after to this post in a second.

 

[Torx]

I picked up one of these at a steam fair last year, seems great for that sort of thing

https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/abrasiv...h0c20wC6Jmuto16um3akwKzwDVum8a7EaAsa7EALw_wcB

 

[Fitzroy]

Something like this are awesome to remove the most of the rust before the sanding/scotchbrite treatment.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-609...93&hvtargid=pla-421793600309&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

 

[Ollie78]

A Gary block is great for this and cheap, probably only need fine. Then a wabrax pad and some paste wax.

Ollie

 

[Noel]

Do use a little light machine oil if using some type of abrasive. The oil makes it easier but more importantly suspends any debris or iron particles lifted from the surface. As said, finish with white spirit and a protective coating.

 

[ian33a]

Like Colin, I also moved to Devon last year and have come up against the same rust problem.

I used some fine steel wool to remove the surface rust, then cleaned the surfaces and have coated the them with ACF-50. I bought a bottle together with an applicator for about £30. So far, so good.

 

[Philw]

Where I’m at with what I have to hand currently I shall abrase lightly with steel wool working in some wd40. Possibly using some 400+ grit sandpaper if struggling.
I am also waiting for Axminster’s machine wax to come back in stock, so I may apply some candle wax to lubricate the bed.

 

[Dave Moore]

Hello all, wondering how I should go about cleaning down and lubricating my new (second hand) metabo HC260c thicknesser bed.
It has apparently been sat in a garage for 5+ years and so the bed is rusty and wood is getting stuck.

Thanks in advance.

Brass wire brush in a drill.

 

[wallace]

stanley blade in a holder followed by red scotchbrite

 

[Ollie78]

Where I’m at with what I have to hand currently I shall abrase lightly with steel wool working in some wd40. Possibly using some 400+ grit sandpaper if struggling.
I am also waiting for Axminster’s machine wax to come back in stock, so I may apply some candle wax to lubricate the bed.

That will work fine, it's mainly the elbow grease. Just use normal paste wax on it, no need to buy "special" machine wax. I have tried all sorts of fancy protective coatings and as long as you keep it waxed regularly cheap old paste wax is fine.

Ollie

 

[Jacob]

That will work fine, it's mainly the elbow grease. Just use normal paste wax on it, no need to buy "special" machine wax. I have tried all sorts of fancy protective coatings and as long as you keep it waxed regularly cheap old paste wax is fine.

Ollie

Squiggle with a candle. Only takes seconds and one candle can last for years.

 

[TomGW]

WD40 contains silicone and will wreak havoc when you try finishing wood.

 

[Jacob]

WD40 contains silicone and will wreak havoc when you try finishing wood.

No it won't! Only if you spray it on all over the place just before you apply finishes. Ditto candle wax.

 

[Orraloon]

Been cleaning my cast surfaces with WD40 for many years and never had a problem. Thing is you dont just squirt it about and leave it. You clean it off then wax the surface. I have to admit however I have never read the ingredients list of WD40
Regards
John

 

[rob1693]

No silicone

 

[Fergie 307]

Great stuff for many things, only problem is if you leave it exposed long term it dries out to a nasty brown crud. So use it, clean it off and treat it with wax or similar as Oraloon says

Been cleaning my cast surfaces with WD40 for many years and never had a problem. Thing is you dont just squirt it about and leave it. You clean it off then wax the surface. I have to admit however I have never read the ingredients list of WD40
Regards
John

 

[ivan]

ACF 50 does work. Looks expensive but a little goes a long way. Once clean, an ACF50 wipe and then floor polish (not so easy to find these days, but silicone free is available). You could make your own with paraffin and or carnuba wax.
Devon is damp! Regular use is probably best preventative, but hobbyists like me should try the above. Bear in mind that rusting will begin at RH 70% and above. A dehumidifier will keep it at 60% (or less if you like) and dessicant type will work at freezing point. Most of the electricity used will turn to heat which is also useful.

 

[sams93]

ACF 50 does work. Looks expensive but a little goes a long way. Once clean, an ACF50 wipe and then floor polish (not so easy to find these days, but silicone free is available). You could make your own with paraffin and or carnuba wax.
Devon is damp! Regular use is probably best preventative, but hobbyists like me should try the above. Bear in mind that rusting will begin at RH 70% and above. A dehumidifier will keep it at 60% (or less if you like) and dessicant type will work at freezing point. Most of the electricity used will turn to heat which is also useful.

I have a £4 a month contract with my little 20w dehumidifier which I leave running constantly in my shed.

I live 2 miles from the sea so humidity is an issue here anyway, thats before even considering the 'shed' issues of damp and humidity.

The dehumidifier plus regular ACF-50 application to tools works pretty well. I try to keep all tools in plastic boxes if possible with a dessicant sachet in the box.

It is a small faff and a small expense but really it is the only way if you are in a situation where rust is a significant risk to your tools.