Clean cutting plywood - that's easy isn't it?

[Rewound]

What is the rake of the blade you are using ?
I have found zero or negative rake give the best results for cross cutting plywood, but they do give a greater likeliehood of kickback.

 

[Hornbeam]

I find cutting veneered ply it is the top surface at the very last part of teh cut that often gets flicked of. Parcel tape works really well

 

[cowtown_eric]

I got tuned into hing angle blades some years ago, and never looked back

Similar to this

https://www.cmtorangetools.com/na-e...rial-melamine-fine-cut-off-circular-sw-blades
With a zero clearance insert they will cut melamine covered partical board with incredibly minimal chip-out, , plywood without chip out.

Downside is that they dull quickly, I used to figure after two kitchens, they went to the sharp-shop

 

[pgrbff]

I use a professional CMT blade designed for ply and it does a much better job.

 

[DavidConnelly]

I've bought some nice Birch ply to make boxes but am struggling to get a clean cut with my circular saw. I know I can hide the top surface inside the boxes but I would like to get as good a cut as possible to start with so that its not a problem in the first place. I have a Saxton 80T blade which will 'rip' satisfactorily but 'cross cut' not so good. I resorted to Youtube and tried different cut depths including a two stage cut. Is table saw the only way?

I use a Stanley blade and cut the first line. It helps a bit.

 

[mark w]

If you've got a few pounds to spend this is probably the ultimate answer to the problem Festool Plunge-cut saw with scoring function TSV 60 KEBQ-Plus 230V online

 

[MikeJhn]

Any track saw will do a better job, the track's continuous rubber strip against the blade is designed to help prevent tear out.

 

[paulrbarnard]

I use a Stanley blade and cut the first line. It helps a bit.

You have given me a bit of an idea for a 3D printed holder that slides on the rail holding two stanly blades to score both sides of the cut. Could be a useful tool for very fragile cuts.

I might give it a go.

 

[recipio]

I use an Armana hollow ground blade bought from the US, combined with a zero clearance baseplate. It gives perfect results with absolutely no chipout. Not sure if they are available in 30 mm bore but would be worth the investment.

 

[Noel John]

I've bought some nice Birch ply to make boxes but am struggling to get a clean cut with my circular saw. I know I can hide the top surface inside the boxes but I would like to get as good a cut as possible to start with so that its not a problem in the first place. I have a Saxton 80T blade which will 'rip' satisfactorily but 'cross cut' not so good. I resorted to Youtube and tried different cut depths including a two stage cut. Is table saw the only way?

I have found by adjusting the height of the blade that it only justprotudes of is level with the surface of the ply produves a clean cut.
Noel

 

[Noel John]

I have found that by setting the height of cut with the blade level with the surface of the ply or fractionally above it produces a clean cut.
Noel

 

[Terrytpot]

Sandwich your intended piece to be cut with additional boards placed underneath and also on top and cut all three at the same time therein using them as zero clearance inserts on both sides.

 

[moosepig]

I went through this same pain some years ago... I ended up buying a tracksaw. Never looked back.

 

[rodshalin]

More TPI blade works for me,or cut a little long and use a shotting broad for a clean cut.

 

[rodshalin]

My preferred method is using a Japanese saw with a 1 1/2" x 1 11/2" board as a guide, always getting a clean cut.

 

[Ollie78]

If you've got a few pounds to spend this is probably the ultimate answer to the problem Festool Plunge-cut saw with scoring function TSV 60 KEBQ-Plus 230V online

That looks good but I think it makes the saw so long it could cause difficulties, only useful for long cuts.

 

[Ollie78]

You have given me a bit of an idea for a 3D printed holder that slides on the rail holding two stanly blades to score both sides of the cut. Could be a useful tool for very fragile cuts.

I might give it a go.

That is a very good idea. It could mount on the front of the saw itself and be engaged with a tilt downwards and locked in position. Cheaper than the festool scoring thingy.

Ollie

 

[Steve Medlock]

OK I'm back. I took the plunge and bought a budget track saw that seemed to be fairly well recommended for the sort of use that I need. Just been trying it out on some scrap and the cut is perfect! Many thanks for everyone that chipped in on this - problem now solved.
Cheers
Steve.

 

[TheUnicorn]

OK I'm back. I took the plunge and bought a budget track saw that seemed to be fairly well recommended for the sort of use that I need. Just been trying it out on some scrap and the cut is perfect! Many thanks for everyone that chipped in on this - problem now solved.
Cheers
Steve.

which model did you go for?

 

[Steve Medlock]

which model did you go for?

Screwfix/Erbauer with an extra Makita track.