NeiljohnUK
Established Member
I've got an old (~18 years old) CMD10 mini-mill and the power/control boards developed a fault, trips out as 'overloaded' even without any load, anyone got a scrapper or repaired one?
Clarke CMD10, need a new control board.
- Thread starter NeiljohnUK
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Tris
What am I doing here?
Iirc Arc Eurotrade used to stock them, might be worth a call.
NeiljohnUK
Established Member
I'll give them a try if the different unit I found on ebay doesn't work out, Clarke spares say they can supply one, for a kidney!
Tris
What am I doing here?
That figures, I seem to remember they sold the board for about the same price as the whole machine when it first came out.
There's a thread on a model engineering forum about converting one to run from a PWM controller, luckily the worst I've done to mine is blow a fuse
There's a thread on a model engineering forum about converting one to run from a PWM controller, luckily the worst I've done to mine is blow a fuse
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
There is an American that specializes in fixing boards for mini lathes and mills. I don't know if it would be economical to pay for shipping both ways, repair costs, taxes, duties and whatever tariffs may be in the future. Something you would have to weigh. Perhaps there is someone in the UK that can do the same. https://olduhfguy.com
Pete
Pete
There are a number of sellers on e bay who do reconditioned boards for boilers etc. Might be worth contacting one of them.
The idea is sound but the area of application may not bear fruit.
From what I know, the mill motor is a circa 180v DC motor, not something seen in many boilers. Nor do many boilers run at variable speed and in reverse.
See link above for the area of electronics that would be relevant: "DC and brushless motor control boards". A similar style of motor is used in treadmills, so if there was someone offering electronic repairs to those, that might be a possibility.
I've just been looking. TBH, it looks more as if it's a "220V motor", which makes me think it runs at about whatever the (rectified) mains supply voltage is. It makes things simple as well, which would figure. They don't make things more complicated than they have to.
What does the motor rating plate say?
There's a circuit diagram here that says "220V DC out"
If it is that voltage, then there are a whole lot of speed control modules for a DC motor available cheaply.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/10021857512
No guarantee that I'm right though. I'd need to know a lot more about what is actually there.
There are also all sorts of alternate repairs suggested if you do a net search.
What does the motor rating plate say?
There's a circuit diagram here that says "220V DC out"
If it is that voltage, then there are a whole lot of speed control modules for a DC motor available cheaply.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/10021857512
No guarantee that I'm right though. I'd need to know a lot more about what is actually there.
There are also all sorts of alternate repairs suggested if you do a net search.
I would think those familiar with repairing circuit boards would probably have a pretty good idea of their way around one, and where to look for likely cause of the symptoms described.
But nice to see you chipping in with your usual positive contribution
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Or just Google PCB repairs, loads in my neck of the woods.
I have a Tool Kraft pillar drill/router. Great machine and bought for a song because as soon as you pressed go it would pop the breaker on the machine itself.
In that case it turned out to be the motor rather than the board. Might be worth checking the windings etc. There are some very knowledgeable folk on here who will know better than I how to go about that.
In that case it turned out to be the motor rather than the board. Might be worth checking the windings etc. There are some very knowledgeable folk on here who will know better than I how to go about that.
NeiljohnUK
Established Member
Update, the simple under a tenner Chinese made variable DC unit from Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296116905896 mounted inside if the head on the opposite side to the original controller worked out OK, I retained the original reversing switch, fuse and power on light, and added a NVR EPO to the front of the head whilst I was at it. It's performed it's first job without an issue, once I'd adjusted the gibbs to eliminate the table wobble. Thanks for all of your suggestions.
Looks like the unit that drives my little Unimat lathe, been very reliable.
Cb500johnny
New member
Hi, could you post some images of your repair/modifications please? I’ve recently acquired the same machine but the previous owner had some problems and had attempted to repair the wiring. Given the mess it’s in I’d like to abandon the original board etc and just run it with a variable dc unit.
Thanks, Johnny
