Clamping a router table fence in position

[dicktimber]

Just making a new router fence.
Has anyone got a way of clamping that does not involve G clamps on the end of the fence, or slots through the table.
I was thinking of toggle clamps on the back of the fence and clamping down on the table?????

:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
Mike

 

[wizer]

What about this

 

[MikeG.]

****,

you don't need two free ends. One end can be pivoted. People scratch their head over this, but the fact is you do not need a parallel motion on your fence. Pivoting one end means you only have one loose end to deal with, and an arrangement like Tom's (which is very similar to mine) works really well.

Mike

 

[Shultzy]

I've just finished mine, similar to Wizer's just with longer handles

 

[dicktimber]

Tom/Mike
Thank's for that photo.
That looks a better option.
I have been messing about with some drawer runners to see if I can get them attached to both sides of the table and attached to the fence so that it moves parallel backwards and forewards.
I will see if I can attach your clamping arrangement.
i am in the early stages but will post some photos if it works out.

Thanks
Mike

 

[wizer]

hmm I like that drawer slide idea.

 

[JonnyD]

****,

you don't need two free ends. One end can be pivoted. People scratch their head over this, but the fact is you do not need a parallel motion on your fence. Pivoting one end means you only have one loose end to deal with, and an arrangement like Tom's (which is very similar to mine) works really well.

Mike

I agree pivoting the fence works but is not the best solution if you want to use a sliding table or mitre fence. For this you idealy want the fence to be parallel to the mitre slot or sliding table. You can achieve this if you have two slots for the fence to run in perpendicular to the mitre slot. Some simple hardwood runners or metal runners screwed to the bottom of the fence will allow the fence to slide parallel to the mitre slot.

Jon

 

[dicktimber]

John
That was what I was also considering.
On the table and fence one of the problems is with router dust.
It gets into anything that slides.
I was a bit worried that hardwood guide runners, under the fence would quickly build up with dust and make it difficult to move the fence.
Having said that, it's the way I will probably go.

In reflection I consider a table saw fence would be a good option running along the side of the table. I like the clamping, one handed and the fence being parallel, but, I refuse to pay the price people like Kreg, are asking for this type arrangement.

Will let you know how I get on.

Thanks again

Mike

 

[Niki]

Similar to Wizer and Shultzy...

As for the step-by-step "How to", please have a look here
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... highlight=

niki

 

[FogggyTown]

Tom/Mike
Thank's for that photo.
That looks a better option.
I have been messing about with some drawer runners to see if I can get them attached to both sides of the table and attached to the fence so that it moves parallel backwards and forewards.

Thanks
Mike

Or use a dovetail slide. Inlay two tracks of some really hard wood and cut a dovetail grove lengthways in each. Then have dovetail pins on the bottom of your fence.

 

[9fingers]

I have been messing about with some drawer runners to see if I can get them attached to both sides of the table and attached to the fence so that it moves parallel backwards and forewards.

Mike

Mike have you considered augmenting the guides with the mechanism used by old style drawing boards?
These often come up in our local paper for sale and would yield all the pulleys, clamps and wire needed.

Bob

 

[Shultzy]

Why bother with any slots in the table, they only gather dust. Make a mitre sled that runs along the fence.

 

[dicktimber]

Today I machined the table edges to take metal drawer runners.
The type that looked like they would work were the computer keypad drawer ones, which are flat.
They attached to the table edge ok, and when the fence base was attached it looked like we were ROCKING.
The table moves backward and forwards ok, but because of the play in the slide bearings it never goes back in a true 90 degrees to the edge.
So, I have now abandoned that idea.
At least I tried an idea out and there is nothing lost.
I will take some of the ideas you have given me that work in practice and revert to a conventional woodie method of fence manufacture.
I have taken photos but I cant post them as I am useless when it comes to computers....but if Tom Wizzer would like to see them and maybe post on my behalf I will e mail them to him if he sends me a private message with his e mail address....if not that's ok too!
Thanks again

Mike

 

[wizer]

Send 'em over Mikke I would be very interested to see this. I've been mulling over how to do it since you suggested it.

 

[wizer]

Here's Mike's pics

Mike I'm not sure I understand what the problem was? Why didn't this work?

 

[dicktimber]

Tom
I was looking to achieve movement of the fence parallel to the front face of the table or parallel to a mitre slot(which isn't cut yet).
What happens is that because of play in the runners, the fence never lines up parallel every time you move it.
The fence would work but I would be forever doing what I do now and have to keep checking the fence squareness when using the mitre slot.
Granted for rebating, or fence work it wouldn't matter, but I thought It would be accurate enough to be able to put a stick on rule down one side, and maybe a fine adjustment rod on the back of the fence.....it sounds like I want an Incra Fence on the cheap thinking about it!!!!!!!
Silly me :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

 

[9fingers]

Tom
I was looking to achieve movement of the fence parallel to the front face of the table or parallel to a mitre slot(which isn't cut yet).
What happens is that because of play in the runners, the fence never lines up parallel every time you move it.
The fence would work but I would be forever doing what I do now and have to keep checking the fence squareness when using the mitre slot.
Granted for rebating, or fence work it wouldn't matter, but I thought It would be accurate enough to be able to put a stick on rule down one side, and maybe a fine adjustment rod on the back of the fence.....it sounds like I want an Incra Fence on the cheap thinking about it!!!!!!!
Silly me :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

That is where the parallel motion from a drawing board will help keep the fence square.

Bob

 

[Chems]

Tom
I was looking to achieve movement of the fence parallel to the front face of the table or parallel to a mitre slot(which isn't cut yet).
What happens is that because of play in the runners, the fence never lines up parallel every time you move it.
The fence would work but I would be forever doing what I do now and have to keep checking the fence squareness when using the mitre slot.
Granted for rebating, or fence work it wouldn't matter, but I thought It would be accurate enough to be able to put a stick on rule down one side, and maybe a fine adjustment rod on the back of the fence.....it sounds like I want an Incra Fence on the cheap thinking about it!!!!!!!
Silly me :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

A few wooden runners on the table sides would eliminate the play?