Circular Saw Advice

[les chicken]

Why not use a piece of melamine sheet for the guide you can buy it in 6 or 9 inch widths. This will give a nice smooth edge for the saw or router to run against and is easy to clean. Just an idea.

Les

 

[pooka]

The extra bit of hardboard on the non-cutting side is very useful for clamping too.

Or make it wide enough to accommodate your router.

Cheers, Alf

I considered that recently, as I debated whether to replace the hardboard with something more robust. However, that would give me two very fragile sides to the cutting guide (right now it doesn't matter if the clamping side gets bashed during storage, and it usually does), and my already frail nerves mightn't be able to cope with the added care required.

 

[Matt1245]

I've now placed an order with Axminster for the Hitachi CS

After my fantastic advise, your not buying it off me? now that just cheeky :lol:

Only kidding, wouldn't try and push my wares on you guys, just nice to be able to offer advise. You'll get a pretty good deal at axminster, they seem pretty fair on power tools.

Useless fact......Hitachi are no1 for power tools in Japan, even ahead of makita. Watch out for there new cordless nailer, out soon.

Did i mention that i sell freud blades :lol: :lol: :lol:

Matt.

 

[frank]

mate will you be selling them at the yorkshire ww show if you are i might just see you there .

frank

 

[Matt1245]

Who Moi? Nope, won't be at the yorkshire wood work show, not selling anyway.

Matt.

 

[ByronBlack]

Matt - the reason why I got it from Axminster was because I also ordered the Jet bandsaw, and a bunch of other small stuff seemed easier to get it all in one order.

But I do need to get a freud blade, so if you want to PM me your number, i'll give you a call.

 

[Matt1245]

Don't wanna get ont he wrong side of anyone Byron, heard that Alf can do some horrific things with her scrub plane when ruffled. :lol:

Also might be the case that when you add the p&p to the blade you might be able to pick it for a similar price in your area. Where you from?

Or am i just being over cautious?

Matt.

 

[Matt1245]

Also, if you tell me what type, teeth, etc blade your after, i could give you the code number for it, might help you when phoning round.

Matt

 

[ByronBlack]

I'm in Thurrock, Essex and to be honest we are pretty lacking for good tool places, B&Q being pretty much the only good place locally without having to drive a fair way.

I'm not sure I understand about your point of getting on the wrong side of anyone, have I upset someoe without realising? If so, I apologise..

As for blade size, tooth etc. At the moment I don't have the foggiest idea, I just need something for the Hitachi that will allow nice cuts through ply, mdf and maybe the odd piece of hardware.

 

[Matt1245]

No, worried that i may get on the wrong side of someone. I'm on here because of my love of woodworking, just don't want people to think that i'm on here to make money out of them.

Matt.

 

[matt]

Why not use a piece of melamine sheet for the guide you can buy it in 6 or 9 inch widths. This will give a nice smooth edge for the saw or router to run against and is easy to clean. Just an idea.

Les

I was just about to suggest the same. It's what I use (8ft lenght for less than £3 from a shed). Mine's about 9" wide to stop any sideways flex. Works perfectly.

Also... I also keep a couple of 4' lengths of of timber, one each to clamp into two B&D Workmates. They serve two purposes - the 1st is to create a stable surface to work on a 8 x4 sheet, the 2nd is that they protrude above the surface of the B&D's, meaning that I just cut straight through the top edges of the timber with the saw - meaning that I both sides of the cut remain supported. This is perhaps obvious to most; however, I spent many occasions trying to hold on to an 8ft cutoff whilst coming to the end of a cut!

 

[ByronBlack]

No, worried that i may get on the wrong side of someone. I'm on here because of my love of woodworking, just don't want people to think that i'm on here to make money out of them.

Matt.

I See your point, well for the record it wouldn't bother me, I think it's useful to have some 'go-to guy's' on a forum, espeically for a complete newb like myself where I don't where to get certain things.

 

[wizer]

In terms of Blades. If I understand correctly, the more teeth the finer the cut. The Less teeth the more beefy material it can cut.....

oh and diameter and bore size is specific to your saw.

 

[Alf]

Don't wanna get ont he wrong side of anyone Byron, heard that Alf can do some horrific things with her scrub plane when ruffled. :lol:

It's all lies... probably. :twisted:

No problem, Matt, just if you could take it to PM's that'd be great.

Cheers, Alf

 

[SVB]

So, it's been a while - how's the saw working out? I have a similar problem (opportunity?) A workshop floor to lay (3/4" material) plus a loft to board out and only a handsaw. So, approx £100 in the budget, and the options as I see them are the Hitachi, the Skil Orca or an eBay risk on something like a Dewalt DW62.

Questions - what would you pick from the above, or something I have not listed?

Are C/S like bandsaws, throw away the supplied blade and start again or can they mainly be trusted?

Thanks,

Simon.

 

[Scrit]

That's right - circular saw blades are just like bandsaw blades, pretty ropugh and fit only for ripping B&Q banana pine. Even the poorest saw is much improved by the addition of a decent blade.

BTW if you are thinking of using birch plywood as a straight edge you should be aware that it is frequently stressed and may bow in the length (i.e. go banana shaped across its width) as the stresses are released by cutting. It is also inconsistent in thickness by up to plus or minus 0.5mm or so. MFC on the other hand is extremely consistent in thickness, tends to suffer less from stress and is as cheap as chips. The surface melamine coating is also pretty durable. Getting the local timber yard/shed to cut it on a wall saw will ensure a dead straight edge.

Scrit