Chisel Rust

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Jez

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I've got some light rust started to form on some of my chisels and ive tried getting it off with some honing oil, rag and elbow grease and it didn't seem to work...
I never used to put oil on them but have started now (learnt the hard way) i just use a rag with some honing oil on, should this be ok or do i need to get myself some Camellia Oil ?

I was thinking of using some fine wire wool but i didn't know if it would scratch my tools up.

http://dacteam.com/upload/userfiles/MI7/-rust.jpg

Its quite alot darker then the camera makes it look and it also goes up the handle, and some on the back

Does anyone have any tips on how to remove this nastynesssss :(

cheers,
Jez
 
I use this kind of abrasive to clean light surface rust from my tools. I didn't get mine from Lee Valley, I just sourced it locally. I use the white one if the rust is really light and the grey one if it is a bit heavier. Even the grey one tends to polish the tool. It doesn't really scratch it like sandpaper would.

Lie-Nielsen recommend these. I haven't used this type of thing though so I don't know how well they work.
 
i'd go for one of those flexible emery pads, garryflex is a good brand
to rub it off,
the although i use camelia oil others prefer other types of oil

somehow leather pouches don't seem to help either, cause they retain moisture. you could try soaking that in a little oil too though.

a lot depends upon the steel quality too, and where you store the chisels.
the guys i sharpen for are not exactly good at looking after their tools, and rarely do they come back rusty where yours are, and at that time, the rust goes when i sharpen and hone them.

paul :wink:
 
As far as oils go, I tend to use whatever I have around. I'm using Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil at the moment. It's a bit messy but it seems to work OK. My house is about 200 metres from the ocean and we get a lot of salt spray so rust is something you really have to watch. I've just recently bought some "sheep in a can" which I'm told is very good but I haven't tried it yet. I've bought the heavy duty one in an aerosol spray can. I sprayed some of it onto a tool yesterday, just to see what its like, and now my workshop (a.k.a. my garage) smells like a shearing shed.
 
Mirboo":3ku8z55g said:
...snip... I've just recently bought some "sheep in a can" which I'm told is very good but I haven't tried it yet. I've bought the heavy duty one in an aerosol spray can. I sprayed some of it onto a tool yesterday, just to see what its like, and now my workshop (a.k.a. my garage) smells like a shearing shed.

Watch out if using Lanolin based products, they can seriously affect bonding of adhesives and finishes if your wood gets contaminated.
It can become volatile and airborne if atmospheric conditions are conducive and settle on adjacent surfaces.
Remember sheep wear it to keep out water.
 
engineer one":3jh4n2u4 said:
...snip.. and rarely do they come back rusty where yours are, ...snip..

I suspect that at the top of the blade/shank area it's down to hand perspiration contamination, the salt-acid mix left by a firm grip at this point gets transferred to the leather sleave awaiting atmospheric changes to activate the tannins in the leather to further improve their performance.

Have a read of This Description of Tanning for one example, to see how much Salt and substances such as Oak Bark may be used. There are bound to be traces left in the leather, especially if its origin is from one of the cheaper world sources.
 
If it's just light rust, one of those nylon scouring pads (like you use in the kitchen), with some oil will get it off without doing any damage.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Yeah, I'd (and indeed have) use a fine non-woven abrasive and a little white spirit too and it'll be all right. Then take that damn leather roll and throw it as far away as you can. They're a blooming moisture attractor and knobbled my LNs early on too (despite the famous camelia oil). Now they're in a cheapo canvas roll and not a problem.

Cheers, Alf
 
I like rapeseed oil rather then camelia, which SWMBO gets me from Tesco. Cheap enough to slosh about and then wipe off excess. Like camelia it doesn't seem to cause marks or affect gluing if used in sensible amounts. Rape oil has a good industrial lubricating heritage - so you might prefer something else for the kitchen!
 
I use the Camellia Oil in the little bottle with the felt wick - a little wipe over planes, chisels and saws at the end of each session and I've had no problems with rust to date.....the bottle applicator makes the oil go further too...get rid of the leather tool roll, nice to have for transporting chisels but not to store them - Rob
 
Thanks for the help everyone :D

just ordered a few things off axminster :

Garryflex Fine Brown - 240 Grit
Axminster Chisel Roll - 8 Pocket (cheapy canvas one)
Camellia Oil Rust Protector - 240ml

and stuck a Veritas honing guide on also :eek:


cheers,
Jez
 
If you have your tools stored in a chest /drawer/cupboard setup you could place a silica gel granules can in with them, it draws any moisture in the confined space to it.

It takes discipline but a routine of cleaning off before storage is a must in any workshop.
I suppose tis a bit like folding your clothes after doing the laundry.
 
Little bit off topic, but I use silica granules in old coffee jars to store biscuits (....the wooden ones, before anyone says :lol: ) - keeps 'em nice and dry - Rob
 
the Garryflex blocks worked perfectly and my chisels are now rust free and shining like a gem :eek:

The Veritas honing guide i ordered is also great so my chisels are rust free and razor sharp !
The Camellia oil is to come at a later date (oos) but the chisels are sitting in a new canvas roll and i've put one of those silicone packets in my tool box.

so well see how it works out in time :D

thanks alot everybody,
Jez
 
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