Vann
Established Member
Research is GOOD. Not everyone is interested in this sort of thing, but I think there are enough who are. Keep on with the good work.richarnold":2rvd2xq9 said:
Cheers, Vann.
Chisel restoration
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Cheers, Vann.
Corneel
Established Member
Yes, I like research and history very much too.
I just have bought two nice Sorby paring chisels. I & H Sorby and Caststeel. Anyone have an idea what age I should date these? The family history links are a bit complex.
I just have bought two nice Sorby paring chisels. I & H Sorby and Caststeel. Anyone have an idea what age I should date these? The family history links are a bit complex.
Cheshirechappie
Established Member
Hi Corneel,
The shoulder shape of your paring chisel corresponds to the 'Tool Chest of Benjamin Seaton' chart as the shape used from the mid 19th century onwards, suggesting that the chisel is about 1850-ish or later.
The Sorby family tree is a very convoluted one. There seem to have been quite a lot of Sorbys involved in Sheffield; I read somewhere that one of them is regarded as the father of modern metallurgy because of his investigative work and scientific analysis of steels in the 19th century.
W.L.Goodman in 'British Planemakers from 1700' (2nd edition) gives dates for the I & H Sorby mark, either with the 'golden fleece' device or without it, as between 1824 and 188?. (That shouldn't necessarily be taken as gospel truth - I think Goodman used the best information he had available in compiling his notes, and in some cases better information has come to light subsequently, ammending his dates a bit).
So that suggests about 1850 - 1885ish. Though that is subject to anybody having better information than I do...
The shoulder shape of your paring chisel corresponds to the 'Tool Chest of Benjamin Seaton' chart as the shape used from the mid 19th century onwards, suggesting that the chisel is about 1850-ish or later.
The Sorby family tree is a very convoluted one. There seem to have been quite a lot of Sorbys involved in Sheffield; I read somewhere that one of them is regarded as the father of modern metallurgy because of his investigative work and scientific analysis of steels in the 19th century.
W.L.Goodman in 'British Planemakers from 1700' (2nd edition) gives dates for the I & H Sorby mark, either with the 'golden fleece' device or without it, as between 1824 and 188?. (That shouldn't necessarily be taken as gospel truth - I think Goodman used the best information he had available in compiling his notes, and in some cases better information has come to light subsequently, ammending his dates a bit).
So that suggests about 1850 - 1885ish. Though that is subject to anybody having better information than I do...
Corneel
Established Member
Thanks Ches! That's in gact a lot older then I thought.
These chisels are marvelous. They have a slightly concave back, making initial prepping the chisel very easy. I didn't really changed anything to the face side. Until now the edge is very good. The handles from boxwood are pretty simple afairs but fit nice in the hand.
These chisels are marvelous. They have a slightly concave back, making initial prepping the chisel very easy. I didn't really changed anything to the face side. Until now the edge is very good. The handles from boxwood are pretty simple afairs but fit nice in the hand.
L2wis
Established Member
Hi chaps, I've got some old chisels that are fairly pitted that I want to restore and perhaps re-handle. In the OP it appears only the back of the chisel had the pitting removed. Should I follow suit and leave the top alone? Chisels in question are sorby and marples. I can post some pics if anyone is interested.
*Edited (added pic)
*Edited (added pic)
Attachments
Richard T
Established Member
Hi Lewis,
It is only important to get through the pitting close to the edge on the flat side. This usually results in about 1 - 1/2" in practice and is more than enough for a lifetimes chiselling given that the flat side gets an extra tweak every time it is sharpened.
If they are decent steel, after you have finished getting the relevant areas flat, just see how you (and your hands/wrists) feel about doing the rest of the non essential areas .....
It is only important to get through the pitting close to the edge on the flat side. This usually results in about 1 - 1/2" in practice and is more than enough for a lifetimes chiselling given that the flat side gets an extra tweak every time it is sharpened.
If they are decent steel, after you have finished getting the relevant areas flat, just see how you (and your hands/wrists) feel about doing the rest of the non essential areas .....
L2wis
Established Member
Okay cool thanks for that advice. I'm quite looking forwards to turning some new handles out of sapele . I'll create a thread of my WIP once I get round to doing it .
thanks for that advice. I'm quite looking forwards to turning some new handles out of sapele . I'll create a thread of my WIP once I get round to doing it .Cheshirechappie
Established Member
Hi L2wis,
Please pardon me sticking my nose in, but just a couple of thoughts about chisel handles. Firstly, some of those in your photo look to be in quite good condition; if they're tight on the tang and don't have bits split off them, it may be easier to just clean the surface dust and muck off with turps or similar, allow to dry and then refinish with Danish oil or similar. Even the ones with raggy mallet ends can just be tidied up, smoothed off and refinished.
If handles are split and do need to be replaced, it may be worth avoiding sapele; it's a splintery wood, and has a reputation for being a tad brittle. The traditional woods for chisel handles are beech, ash (to a lesser extent), and boxwood. These are tough, resilient woods that will stand a lot of mallet blows. You can find beech and ash as 'turning blanks' quite cheaply, and boxwood pieces can be found (try Workshop Heaven for box blanks), and if you can get 'air dried' so much the better, as kiln drying can embrittle some pieces. (I once made a hammer-shaft out of kiln-dried ash, and it shattered by the hammer head after about six months of use.) The tropical timbers such as rosewood can look very smart, but many are too brittle for general chisel duties involving mallet work. They would make perfectly satisfactory handles for paring chisels, though.
If you've got some bits of sapele, a practice run making and fitting handles may be a good move. Getting chisel handles on straight is not as easy as it might appear - just needs a bit of practice, that's all - so a couple of 'dry runs' would be a good use of time in the long run.
Good luck with them - Sorby and Marples are respected makers, so investing a bit of time should result in some very good tools!
Please pardon me sticking my nose in, but just a couple of thoughts about chisel handles. Firstly, some of those in your photo look to be in quite good condition; if they're tight on the tang and don't have bits split off them, it may be easier to just clean the surface dust and muck off with turps or similar, allow to dry and then refinish with Danish oil or similar. Even the ones with raggy mallet ends can just be tidied up, smoothed off and refinished.
If handles are split and do need to be replaced, it may be worth avoiding sapele; it's a splintery wood, and has a reputation for being a tad brittle. The traditional woods for chisel handles are beech, ash (to a lesser extent), and boxwood. These are tough, resilient woods that will stand a lot of mallet blows. You can find beech and ash as 'turning blanks' quite cheaply, and boxwood pieces can be found (try Workshop Heaven for box blanks), and if you can get 'air dried' so much the better, as kiln drying can embrittle some pieces. (I once made a hammer-shaft out of kiln-dried ash, and it shattered by the hammer head after about six months of use.) The tropical timbers such as rosewood can look very smart, but many are too brittle for general chisel duties involving mallet work. They would make perfectly satisfactory handles for paring chisels, though.
If you've got some bits of sapele, a practice run making and fitting handles may be a good move. Getting chisel handles on straight is not as easy as it might appear - just needs a bit of practice, that's all - so a couple of 'dry runs' would be a good use of time in the long run.
Good luck with them - Sorby and Marples are respected makers, so investing a bit of time should result in some very good tools!
L2wis
Established Member
Hiya Cheshire! Thanks for your post and info . I'm just after a turning project if I'm honest and liked the thought of all my chisel handles matching . Thanks for the info on the normal species to use I'll check out workshop heaven.
. I'm just after a turning project if I'm honest and liked the thought of all my chisel handles matching . Thanks for the info on the normal species to use I'll check out workshop heaven.
