Chipping rebates

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Thought id add a solution to the chipping rebates or more the chipping ovolo mould . I found if i took the aris off the timber with a block plane first i didn't get any chipping :D also scribing the timber with a marking gauge first helped . Thanks for all the ideas i got there in the end :lol:
 
JFC
Sorry to bring this one out from the depths of the UKW archive, but I'm having a similiar problem on some AWO. I usually have good results using the method Sgian describes - doing a very small full depth cut. But this Oak is not even liking that and I've just had a frustrating session in the shed!
Don't quite get your solution? Are you saying you added a chamfer each time you raised the bit?
Cheers
Gidon
 
Hi Gidon , annoying isn't it :lol: My theory was if the cutter was hitting two edges rather than one it would stop the chipping so yes i chamfered the edge a couple of mm so the cutter didn't get that first grip into the grain . This stopped the very big chips .I also ran a marking gauge along both depths of cut quite deep . The groove from the marking gauge will stop the smaller chips traveling onto your finished work in most cases .
Now i have a P/T i cut all my rebates on the saw bench first and just clean up with the router leaving lots of timber left over for beading. This may be a better way for you to go as you only need to take 0.5mm cut .
 
Ok - thanks JFC for clearing that up. I've done loads of these before and not had any problems (with the full depth , small cut method) - so am also wondering if my XX is a little off - will have to check.
Out of interest - why would a spindle moulder not give the same problems?
Cheers
Gidon
 
Ok thanks Jacob. I did consider cutting on the table saw but that involves removing the guide and lowering the riving knife which I'm not particuarly keen on.
Climb cutting means cutting with the rotation of the cutter rather than against. Means the bit can grab the piece and your fingers if not not done very carefully.
Cheers
Gidon
 
off the wall as usual, but surely there is something to be said for
using a thinner cutter on the inside of the rebate first and plunging slowly,
then backing out to do the other edge. i think that when you try to route the whole rebate with a single cut from the outside in, you are getting a tearing moment inside the wood because of the grain pattern, so using a smaller cutter to cut a groove all along the inside edge would break that idea, and i am sure cut down the chipping.


paul :wink:
 
I have noticed the use of a marking gauge, which tears grain. Try a cutting gauge which actually cuts the grain. If not, then as mentioned before, table saw the shoulder, then rout the rest.

EDIT:-
Sorry, for some reason I didn't see page 2. :oops: :oops:
 

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