Changing speed on AWHBS350N bandsaw

[al3ph]

Hi, I've noticed my new bandsaw is actually two speed, not that the documentation mentions this at all.

Does anyone know how you actually do this, there doesn't appear to be enough slack on the belt to allow it to be moved, is it a case of removing the lower wheel ?

Also is there meant to be some left/right movement of the blade while in operation, I'm guessing the tire on the upper wheel isn't perfectly round, at least that's the only reason I can thing of for this behaviour.

cheers!

 

[Steve Maskery]

I don't know that particular machine, but usually to change the pulleys, you undo a bolt or two which allows the motor to move, thus slackening the belt. Then, when you have repositioned the belt, tension it by moving the motor back again and fasten off.

As to the float of the blade, it could be that the tyres are worn (though not very likely), or the blade is kinked (much more likely). Are your blades guides adjusted properly?
S

 

[al3ph]

As far as I can see the motor is fixed, oddly the booklet implies the drive belt tensioner should be inside the belt not outside, and also shows the belt having a lot more slack. The 310 shows the belt tensioner outside like mine.

Very odd.. Wonder if they've put the wrong belt on my machine...

The guides are probably to far apart, but I did this to stop the noise of the blade constantly hitting them, I've ordered some blades from TuffSaws I'll see if these are any better, it's quite possible I've missed something on the setup though.

p.s. it's brand new so it won't be wear on the tires.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Can you post a picture or two of the pulley, belt and tensioning arrangement? That would help. I think.
S

 

[Pond]

I have just bought one of these too.

It is quite confusing, as Axminster set-up instructions are typically terrible! Being a new machine, the drivebelt is fairly taught so it will get easier as the belt stretches. For now try this.....

Make sure the machine is unplugged! Unscrew the tensioning roller from the drive-belt, get a large screwdriver and wedge this gently between the inside of the drive belt and motor pulley by moving the belt by hand being careful not to damage the pulley or belt, or catching your fingers. Once the screwdriver has pulled the belt slightly out of the pulley, gently rotate the belt while raising the screwdriver to lever the belt off the pulley and onto the inner one. Re-tension the belt. To move back do the same; this is trickier as there is less leverage space.
I only know how to do this from spending many years changing and adjusting drive-belts at work.
The belt is tensioned correctly when you can 'twist it' fairly easily with two fingers to 90 degrees in the centre between the two wheels, or has approx 10mm travel when pushed with one finger.

I think the lateral movement on the blade is supposed to be there on the 1/2" blade, as the instructions say to set the roller guides 0.5mm to 1mm either side, giving potentially 1-2mm movement!? I have found it difficult to tension the blade enough.

HTH

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

I have never changed the speed on mine.

The one other possible but unlikely event that may cause the blade to move as you describe could be a foreign object on the blade or wheels or even an uneven tire even if new.

 

[al3ph]

Yep thats was the solution I was considering, just wanted to check I wasn't doing something stupid.

Yeah tensioning the blade is quite hard, the new blades I've ordered are meant to be easier to do as the metal is thinner, not particularly impressed with the bandsaw, but it was pretty cheap considering, and should be fine for my needs.

I suspect the wheel is a bit uneven, which would explain it, guess you get what you pay for

I have just bought one of these too.

It is quite confusing, as Axminster set-up instructions are typically terrible! Being a new machine, the drivebelt is fairly taught so it will get easier as the belt stretches. For now try this.....

Make sure the machine is unplugged! Unscrew the tensioning roller from the drive-belt, get a large screwdriver and wedge this gently between the inside of the drive belt and motor pulley by moving the belt by hand being careful not to damage the pulley or belt, or catching your fingers. Once the screwdriver has pulled the belt slightly out of the pulley, gently rotate the belt while raising the screwdriver to lever the belt off the pulley and onto the inner one. Re-tension the belt. To move back do the same; this is trickier as there is less leverage space.
I only know how to do this from spending many years changing and adjusting drive-belts at work.
The belt is tensioned correctly when you can 'twist it' fairly easily with two fingers to 90 degrees in the centre between the two wheels, or has approx 10mm travel when pushed with one finger.

I think the lateral movement on the blade is supposed to be there on the 1/2" blade, as the instructions say to set the roller guides 0.5mm to 1mm either side, giving potentially 1-2mm movement!? I have found it difficult to tension the blade enough.

HTH

 

[Pond]

not particularly impressed with the bandsaw, but it was pretty cheap considering

I'm not impressed either. Cast iron table which I find virtually impossible to tilt unless someone else is there to help (which there never is), the fence is utter c*ap. Considering how low cost the parts are, I don't think it was cheap to buy.

AND mine has a bent top door. Can't be bothered to complain to Axy.
Quiet though!

 

[Steve Maskery]

Bandsaws are pretty simple machines, really. Yes it's better if the parts are all rock solid, but if you fit the right blade and fettle the machine properly and don't ask it to do something for which it was never intended, you really ought to be able to get it to cut straight and true. Persevere!

 

[RogerP]

I've had a AWHBS350n for several years during which time I've made some alterations and fettling in general.

I changed the drive belt to a Power Twist http://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwist-plus/ and always have it on the higher speed. I dispensed with the belt tensioning arrangement.

I beefed up the fence and also made it taller by attaching a length of 19mm ply. I also altered the fence clamp lever from sticking out horizontally to be pointing downwards when locked (got fed up catching myself on it).

I use Tuff saw blades. The machine is pretty much vibration free and cuts dead straight and true. Good enough to cut veneers.

I realised when I bought it that it was a cheapish saw but overall I've been very pleased with it. It was a lot cheaper when I bought it than its last list price.

 

[al3ph]

Managed to change the speed using a screwdriver, fairly easy. Hopefully the new blades will turn up soon, then off to make some bandsaw boxes

Thanks for the help everyone !