rafezetter
Troll Hunter
I sold this stuff for 10 years, and now I fit it alongside doing other stuff, so know a thing or two and the answer is no. Do it now, even a few years down the line it'll still be fine to take down and refix after, just make sure you use STAINLESS screws not passivated for the gutter clips and joints etc.
Gutter and joint clips WILL undo and be reuseable, IF you are NICE TO THEM, but they WILL break if you've hired some cackhanded arsefardel.
Almost all the brands available now have a longer than 10 year lifespan, even the coloured fascias.
I would advise you to get "replacement" fascias instead of the "cover" type that you put over timber, as that does almost nothing to stop the timber rotting out underneath.
Replacement fascias attach directly to the roofing beam ends and are sturdy enough to take the screws for guttering, even something deeper like ogee.
If you intend to set them and then remove them later for re-use I suggest you use STAINLESS SCREWS (with those white cap things) and not Polytop nails, as those nails are ring shank are the mother of all PITA's to get out again, so use SCREWS the first time and then polytops when the re-attachement is to be permanent.
if you or the contractor uses non stainless screws they will RUST and you'll have brown stains all down your lovely expensive fascia.
Getting deeper guttering is a bit of a tricky one to answer, if you have standard round then even going up to squareline could be all you need as there IS a difference and increase in capacity, plus the shape means even in a heavy downpour it's less likely to splash out than with round, which is a bit like a "ski jump".
If you think you need deeper than that, then your budget is your guide; ogee looks a bit nicer than deepflow as it's shallower but wider, a better choice if you have a low pitch and fast runoff.
If you've recently won the lottery and have a more period looking property, you can get deepflow in that cast iron effect, which is really rather good, and from a medium distance is virtually indistinguishable from actual cast iron - but as I said it's SPENDY.
Regardless of what type of soffit ventilation you go for - strips or the circular ones, one of my top recommendations is to back it with stainless mesh just glued on with contractors grab adhesive, because the vent holes are large enough for WASPS to get through, and a wasp nest in the attic is not something you want to have to deal with, so spend a bit of money and proactively stop that from happening.
Another recommendation is hedgehogs, the long wire spikey gutter things (not the cute quadrapedal spikey things) these will signifcantly reduce clogging due to leaves and moss being shed off the roof, even stuck leaves eventually dry out and blow away.
Another advice is if you get contractors to do the work, CHECK IT, make sure they know which way to run the gutter - you would think this is bloody obvious, run it to the downpipe, but the fact I'm even mentioning it should give you a clue how many "professionals" get it wrong. Depending on your building you might want to split the flow 50/50 or add another downpipe to reduce the current one from overflow.
Check they use the right screws etc etc.
Feel free to ask more questions or PM me.
PS don't skimp on the gutter brackets some say every 1000mm but I tend to say every 800mm, it's not so much less it looks cluttered, but it's enough extra clips to almost entirely prevent sagging over a long period, though the type of gutter shape will help - plain round tends to sag in areas with lots of direct sun over many years if the clips are far apart and because it's quite shallow, I've seen places where the edges have sagged in the middle between clips and let water over the sides in a heavy downpour -something to think about.
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