Chair leg repair advice

[TheUnicorn]

Having had to repair a few chair legs over the years, doweling is to me a fools errand, as even a slight misalignment of dowels, as often happens as the brad point drill follows the grain, yields either an incorrect fit on the surfaces to be glued, or an imperfect match of outside surfaces, which could be sanded and then you'd go down the rabbit hole of matching finishes

So, albiet anatheme to the "restoration" bibles, as often the break is in an are of angular grain, I took to boring a very slightlyoversized hole and inserting a metal rod slathered with epoxy, carpenters glue on the flat break areas, clamp and align- or vise-versa

Anyway, that's what i do

Eric

so the metal rod sits loose it the epoxy? acting like a dowel?

 

[SaltyBob]

If your wood is sound, I would follow the earlier post and Use West System epoxy; In the past 8 years I have built several rowing boats, clinker(marine ply & 1/4" laps) which (before Covid) were on the sea every week with crews of 5 and are have never sprung. The heavier sections (keels, gunwales, ribs) use 8:1 scarfs, but the planks are just lapped. The West System epoxy is considerably stronger than any timber, even just butted. Use only when temp is >5 degrees C, 'wet' both surfaces (and dowel, if used), mix remainder to peanut butter consistency with colloidal silica or micro fibers, this will 'pack' the joint (or equivalent); clean wet work as well as you possibly can, leave 24hrs then sand; 'simples'. (Your should be able to buy a 'small 300g pack' for about £18.00; expensive, but if kept out of the frost, will last for years)

Dont know about Araldite?

Bob

 

[TheTiddles]

Why is that chair on castors? I’m surprised that’s the only bit that’s broken, it looks very susceptible and castors will put dynamic loads that it may well struggle with. I’d go for cutting them all off and if it’s too low, adding feet back on tennons.
Aidan

 

[peter-harrison]

Having had to repair a few chair legs over the years, doweling is to me a fools errand, as even a slight misalignment of dowels, as often happens as the brad point drill follows the grain, yields either an incorrect fit on the surfaces to be glued, or an imperfect match of outside surfaces, which could be sanded and then you'd go down the rabbit hole of matching finishes

So, albiet anatheme to the "restoration" bibles, as often the break is in an are of angular grain, I took to boring a very slightlyoversized hole and inserting a metal rod slathered with epoxy, carpenters glue on the flat break areas, clamp and align- or vise-versa

Anyway, that's what i do

Eric

Me too