condeesteso":3k0tfe41 said:
Hello Gary. I'll leave the last word to you (after this):
"I'd not said new Stanley planes were better than old Record planes, as they're pretty much equal when tuned (Frog adjusted & blade sharpened)"
Now I don't actually believe you have any old Records (with the crucible cast blade), because that statement is so profoundly untrue.
I was given a new Stanley No4 by a neighbour a few years ago, still in its box. I checked the sole, concave at least 6 thou. Put it back in the box where it remains to this day. Plastic knob and tote, poorly bedded frog, cheesy cap-iron...
Believe what you will, but which aspect of hand plane tuning can't you understand? Frog adjustment includes seat adjustment if necessary and they tend not to take long to re-seat.
I'll ignore your comment regarding my supposedly not owning planes with crucible cast steel irons. :lol:
The argument is endless in terms of plane blades and the many alloy steel variations they're made from. Whether you wish to consider Record's crucible cast steel, tungsten steel, or tungsten vanadium steel (Depending upon era/production period) I have a good selection of their irons with normal and stay-set cap irons and find all (Including their new irons) are capable of taking and holding a good edge, but they're easily swapped out for other irons in differing alloys of steel or forms of lamination. The steel alloy used obviously affects cutting, but not necessarily handling characteristics which stem from the combination of iron and iron holder (Complete hand plane body). Hence the number of Frankenplanes in existence.
Regarding your friends problem plane and tool selection in general. Quite possibly the best approach toward tool selection is to choose from a number of samples and cherry pick the best for oneself in the way the majority of craftsmen used to (Carpentry and masonry being two crafts with which I'm particularly familiar) and I have done since before being apprenticed as a cabinetmaker all those years ago. This approach to hand tool selection is not necessarily possible now due to the rise of internet trading and distance sales/mail order, but it was the normal approach when craftsmen purchased tools via brick and mortar shops retailing professional tools. The principle reason for this preference is that hand tools differ from sample to sample and none are identical in heft (Potentially toe/heel heavy or well balanced or even bent, twisted like a corkscrew, or straight). Pick up a potential dud like the one your friend fobbed off on you and the best approach is to discard it if you feel there's a problem that can't be easily addressed.
I've three new/boxed Stanley hand planes (#'s 4.5, 5 & 6) waiting to be commissioned for my son's second set of planes and none have the problems you've alluded to, but I do tend to deliberately choose each from a selection instead of accepting the first sample that's handed to me. I inspect everything before paying for a hand tool, as it's easier to return something across a counter top than later find there's a problem and have to return to the shop in order to exchange for another or request a refund. Yes, newer bench planes tend to have plastic handles, but varnished timber and painted metal handles can prove just as tacky during use unless their annealed finish is rubbed out and you keep your hands dry. I don't have a problem with whether or not a hand plane has a timber or plastic handle as handles are soon adjusted (Carved,scraped & sanded) to suit my hands and seldom remain in "factory finish/form".
