Carving Chisels - help with ID and value

[Mike.S]

Argus

Thank you - that's very useful info to know.

I've just spent the weekend writing a description of the 40+ Carving chisels I am selling (Ok, I watched some Rugby as well - go Japan!) and today is photos and 'listiing day', so your post is well timed.

On sweep, I printed a scaled version of the patterns posted by monkeybiter - a great item for identifying unmarked chisels and for verifying whether a 6 was a 6 or a 9 :?

A couple of queries:

- Do the nominal sizes relate to the width (outside edges) of the chisel/gouge or the distance between the inside edges i.e. flute width. I have assumed outside.....

- A couple of gouges were ground in-cannel (whilst everything else was o/c). What might the reason have been for this?

Edited: to remove an apostrophe!

 

[monkeybiter]

- A couple of gouges were ground in-cannel (whilst everything else was o/c). What might the reason have been for this?

Carving a convex surface, I'm carving a human hand at the moment and used one in some areas, I think hey may also be used for rounding-over corners or maybe even creating beading.

 

[Mike.S]

- A couple of gouges were ground in-cannel (whilst everything else was o/c). What might the reason have been for this?

I'm carving a human hand at the moment

Thanks Mike/Dr Mengele :lol:

 

[Argus]

Mike,

I'm a Welshman, but like you I was riveted by the Japan game.
After the Ireland/Canada ritual, it was without doubt the best and most entertaining game of Rugby I've seen in a very long time and like everyone else I wrote them off before they even booted a ball. I used to work for a Japanese company and went there often, Rugby is very popular in Japan and I guess that the country went up in the air a foot or two after the whistle.
But, the next games will tell....

Back to your chisels:

Carving chisels are usually measured by the width of the cut. It is usual, (but not exclusively so, because some people round their corners to suit their style of work), to sharpen dead straight across, so the actual width of the cut is the distance between the two inside corners, and this is the line that you will see in a list of sweeps. The best way to measure is to vertically stab a piece of soft wood and measure the size of the impression. But, there is a huge amount of variation over the years and between manufacturers.........

I would recommend referring to the London listing, because it was the standard when those old gouges were made. The Continental numbering system is different and most UK carvers will be familiar with the London patterns.

The London pattern of gouge numbers starts at No: 3. No: 1 is a flat, straight chisel; No: 2 refers to flat, skewed chisels. (The Continental sweep patterns start at No: 2; the straight and skewed chisels are all listed as No: 1)
The graduations of sweeps then ascend in some arcane fashion to a No: 9 which should (in theory, but may not) be a semicircle.
No: 10 is the same, but with elongated sides and a No: 11 is called a 'veiner'; it is a narrow ( about 1/8") deep sided gouge.
Numbering above this refers to the style of tool: 'back-bent', 'spoon-bent', fish-tail.... and so on.

In-cannel gouges are not commonly used in free carving, unless a coping cut is needed, so they may be strays from a carpenter's box. It is very hard to control a cut in any direction other than a straight line with these................. but there are no hard rules. If it cuts, you can carve with it.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mike.S]

Thank you argus for that very comprehensive response. It's all starting to make sense now.

Rugby: as a kid I used to love the Wales v England games, as whilst I lived in London, both neighbours were Welsh. Much banging on walls! I wasn't going to watch the SA v Japan game, because I anticipated a rout. But then I heard our South African neighbours shrieking (they're women), so turned on and watched the 2nd half (+ highlights that evening) . Awesome performance by Japan - no fluke.

Chisels: I have one Addis beauty, except for the bevel, which is 'inside' and looks like it's been ground using a 1/8" grinding wheel despite being about 1" wide - a real bodge. Tempted to correct it but I guess a new user may well regrind their own o/c bevel so probably best to leave it alone rather than waste good steel.