Carter Bandsaw blade stabilizer?

[Alexam]

Brian, sorry to disagree with woodlaxed, but that particular designed box I have made several times with the 1/4" blade, so when your bandsaw is tuned up and you have a good blade (Tuffsaw) have a go and you will be surprised. There are no sharp curves with that box and as you know, the pointy bits are making use of the blade withdrawal and reverse, then cut.

With the bandsaw you will beable to get more depth to your boxes than with th scrollsaw.

Alex

 

[woodaxed]

If you look at the size of the box Brian has posted i doubt if its 4" tall meaning the bottom curve is close to 1 1/2" dia which is the minimum cut you will get with a 1/4" blade and will stress the blade then youve still got the problem of hollowing out the drawer from memory the tuffsaw blades are 0.025" thick which gives you a huge saw kerf

 

[Clippo]

Hi, I’ve bought a record bs350s for bandsaw boxes and wanted to run a 1/8 blade and I’m very interested to see how woodpig is doing this without a carter stabiliser. Can anyone show me pics or videos of the mdf stick to the guides or the methods used to do this please ?

 

[Clippo]

I've only really had time to do a quick test with my home made version but it seems to work fine. Longevity of the bearing is the only issue that springs to mind as although plain bearings for bandsaws are very cheap the one with the circlip groove that I chose was about £7 either inc or plus postage, I can't remember! With my version I think you could even go down to a 1/16" blade if you're brave!

Woodpig, do you have any pics or video you can share on this please ? I gave a record bs350s and want to run an 1/8 blade if possible

 

[Clippo]

I've only really had time to do a quick test with my home made version but it seems to work fine. Longevity of the bearing is the only issue that springs to mind as although plain bearings for bandsaws are very cheap the one with the circlip groove that I chose was about £7 either inc or plus postage, I can't remember! With my version I think you could even go down to a 1/16" blade if you're brave!

 

[wally7]

using a diy type carter stabiliser with 1/4 blade and it works great. I used a very large bearing to give it strength then instead of cutting a groove in hard bearing sweated on a guide ring with slot. Only thing is before blade is blunt it snaps on weld. Is that because of twist allowed or maybe blade weld not good enough?

 

[wally7]

I tried a bought circlip bearing, removed circlip then used the groove it left for 1/4 blade. Trouble was slot is always to one end of bearing so blade occasionally jumped out and off the bearing. I set it up as per carter with only top guide bearing left on machine using 1/4 blade.
I have access to lathe so bought the cheapest larger bearing 2", and made fitment to hold it on bandsaw. I then 'sweated' on a steel tyre making bearing 2 and 3/16 diameter. Then cut a groove on lathe in centre of bearing on the softer steel tyre until I touched hardened original bearing. Then vee'd it out to allow blade to move easier. Result very good. Larger bearing means it should last longer, get tight curves and 6 months use still good