Cart Lodge roof repair - advice required

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HexusOdy

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The in laws have an old cart Lodge from the days when their land was an active farm. For at least 30 years its been neglected and it was built to farm standard in the first place.

Surprisingly the roof is generally in good condition for something made of the roughest farm grade timber 100 years ago. Pretty much 4-5 inch bark covered branches flattened on the one side.

The problem is this. It's flint on 3 sides and like all cart lodges the open side is a lintel supported by posts. But being built by farmers likely 80 years ago at least the posts had no foundations and have sunk considerably, some at least 50cm. So the lintel line is all over the place and the ridge line to match.

I've removed all the roof tiles and expected to remove all the roof but there's no rot and I reckon it can be saved.

Is there any way I can jack up the lintels into shape while I put in some new posts with foundations?

I figured there would be some kind of hydrolic / pneumatic acro prop but I can't find anything. Best I can come up with so far is fitting bottle jacks to acro's.
 
Have a look at a hydraulic car body repair kit, might just do the job in conjunction with acro props
 
Acro's are designed for propping and I don't think I'll be able to get the leverage to lift the weight of a large roof structure. But happy to be told otherwise, I've never tried.
 
Surely adjustable Acros with the hand wind screw mechanism will do this perfectly well in a controlled way? I you lived near me I would lend you mine. Mine probably only have about 30cm of travel from memory, but you could get round that by using them in pairs, so the second one that goes in is on blocks.
 
multiple acro props will do the job. But they would need to be on very solid ground or large boards to spread the weight.
Set as many as you can get onto the beams. then just turn each one a quarter turn, then go round again with another quarter turn, and so on to lift the whole roof.
 
SunnyBob is exactly right. I did just this; spread the roof load around by bridging across three accrows with a scaffold plank up under the joists, then next three ackies and a plank, next three..worked an absolute treat. You feel a bit like an old-fashioned plate balancer :D but it's straightforward.

Sam
 
If I can do it with acrow props that's much cheaper. I am surprised though that the crappy little winders handles are going to cope with lifting the weight.
 
I've done something very similar to what Sunnybob describes. Acrow props are the way to go. You need to secure the top and the bottom ends (e.g. nail them to boards) to stop them falling over when you least want them to. You may need to take additional steps to stabilise the structure as the props could "topple" if there is nothing to stop them doing so. A good way to turn the little winders is to gain a mechanical advantage on them with a short length (say 18") of steel tubing slid over the end. Lubricating the threads is an attractive option but the downside is that this attracts saw/brick-dust which makes things worse (DAMHIK!). Cheers, W2S
 
I think we all know Acrow props are for support not lifting. It's kinda in the name.

Just trying to find an inventive and cheap solution to the problem.
 
Check out what a hire centre has to offer in the way of hydraulic jacks. HSS are very good.
Consider building up some cribs, 6 x 6 timber would be a good size. Get a good sturdy platform on top of the cribs, I've always preferred steel and use the jacks for the lifts.
Preparation is the key to lifting anything, being ready to make everything secure in as short time as possible is the order of the day.
We always try to get as close as possible with a good estimate, if the weight is not already known, the weight we are lifting and spec equipment with a swl a lot higher than that. I guess cost may factor in for you, but don't let cost override your safety.
 
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