Captain Slow

[Vinny]

having the fence a bit short is no problem. I purposefully made mine too short so that I could glue a sacrificial piece of softwood on it (grain running lengthways), that way you can replace it if you "over shoot" and knock the end off.

Don't want to take credit for this idea, I think it came from Rob.

 

[woodbloke]

having the fence a bit short is no problem. I purposefully made mine too short so that I could glue a sacrificial piece of softwood on it (grain running lengthways), that way you can replace it if you "over shoot" and knock the end off.

Don't want to take credit for this idea, I think it came from Rob.

This is a pic of shute that I made for someone and shows the end of the fence:

You can see that there's a piece of long grain material biscuited onto the end of the main fence so that if it gets removed (due to the inevitable plane 'tippage') it's dead easy to glue another slither on and just re-shute so it's flush. The fence is also adjustable and can be moved fractionally to set up for 90deg - Rob

 

[Vann]

Tell us more RobBloke. What's the black material (some sort of low friction material I assume)? And what's that angled piece in the black material that makes it look like the bottom of a Stanley/Lie-Nielsen shuting plane?

Cheers, Vann.

 

[woodbloke]

Tell us more RobBloke. What's the black material (some sort of low friction material I assume)? And what's that angled piece in the black material that makes it look like the bottom of a Stanley/Lie-Nielsen shuting plane?

Cheers, Vann.

The black material is just a piece of 6mm thick acrylic (Perspex) and the small piece of ply you can see in the corner is a wear strip that rubs underneath the cutter (ie on the bit of the plane sole just 'south' of the mouth) It's purpose is to prevent wear on the upper surface of the shute (where the timber sits) - Rob

 

[LuptonM]

That's actually a great idea Woodbloke. When I need to shoot some end grain in the future, I'll just glue some softwood to the end of my stop. Instead of acrylic I might just wax the side of the plane (like u do with the sole) as my shooting board 's quite big (and I'd just waste alot of acrylic- and it would have to be A2 size or something).

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

You really need to have the stop flush with the edge of the plywood. The purpose of the stop is twofold - it supports the workpiece and it stops the end of the workpiece breaking out as you plane it.

Some say this but I disagree. The fence is not necessary to prevent breakout. In fact, you can still obtain breakout with a flush fence present.

The following is a small exerpt taken from an article on my website ...

... butt the end of the board against the fence and chamfer the end with the plane on the shooting board. This assures a square chamfer.

... turn the board around, rest the reference side against the fence, and plane to the end of the chamfer.

The chamfer may also be made using a chisel.

There are a couple of articles on shooting boards - here's two

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... oard4.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... ction.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[yetloh]

Derek,

That is one fancy shooting board. Have you run out of furniture to make?

Jim

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Heh ..

Hi Jim

This was one of a couple I made for some US woodworkers a few years ago. My own user is a rather (now) decrepid version of this one. Of course, I also have a #51/52 ... and it is relevant to note that the fence on the #52 is used a little open - can you imagine what would happen to a blade if it hit the cast iron fence? :shock:

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[jimi43]

Is that Jarrah there Derek?

I have some...and am getting some more...I simply LOVE that wood...it is far more beautiful than mahogany or any of the red dark hardwoods and I love the way it planes and finishes generally.

I will be making my kitchen floor surround from that and centred with old pitch pine parquet from the USA....I think it is gorgeous.

I feel a board like that one coming on! WOW! =D>

Jim

 

[jonrms]

I do alot of target shooting.. if this board is being used for that forget it... and please dont get upset by that... the reason being is that the ply rips apart in no time and is just not worth the hassle...

now I might have got this wrong... and its used for another type of shooting relating to wood working.. if so oops!!!


but if you want some good ideas for target boards let me know.. I have made more than my fair share.. will happily show you some.. and most now and days are not made of wood....

 

[LuptonM]

Shooting boards have nothing to do with guns LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!

I somehow can't imagine Rob Cosman bringing out a WW2 MG42 to plane some end grain

I now know why a hot dog style tote is important on a plane while using a shooting board. If u repeatedly grip the side of the plane with your thumb quite hard for quite long periods, u will temporary bruise your nerve in your thumb (neuropraxia) and it will go numb for a couple of days (as experienced by me!!!!-didn't even know this is possible)

 

[jonrms]

ok confused..... and trying not to look dumb.. but thats the exact pattern we use to make shooting boards on our range!

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Is that Jarrah there Derek?

I have some...and am getting some more...I simply LOVE that wood...it is far more beautiful than mahogany or any of the red dark hardwoods and I love the way it planes and finishes generally.

Hi Jim

Perth is the capital city of Western Australia, the only area in the world where Jarrah grows. It has become an increasingly rare timber as the forests are denuded for export. It is too terrible. What were once proud forests as far as the ye could see are now a few rows of trees that flank the highway south. I use salvage wood almost exclusively. Most of which comes from roofing trusses. Yep, the old roofs were build of precious hardwood, Jarrah. In recent decades it was Karri. Now it is plantation Pine. At least the stuff I use is well seasoned .. :roll:

Here is a bit more of that particular shooting board. It does have quite spectacular figure. The fence is micro-adjustable fore-and-aft and also has a extending section to take in wear-and-tear.

Here is a Jarrah table I made for my wife last Mother's Day .. set on Jarrah floors.

More on the table here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ ... rsDay.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[jimi43]

Indeed Derek...does it not come from an ancient rain forest?

Jarrah was used as railway sleepers here in the UK....presumably part of ballast cargo reused during the Empire days....

In the spirit of continuous reuse...I am reusing them now that they are all concrete in the UK and they are REALLY well seasoned! It has a magical feel to it...spectacular grain...lovely to work and is one of my many favourites of exotics. Rio, Box, Jarrah, Cocobolo and Wych Elm are but a few of that list...ever growing...I tend to fall in love each time...

I go out of my way to find recycled wood for any purpose...even if it is easily obtainable in new form. I actually don't like working in any new wood whatever....most of my satisfaction comes from reusing something and I absolutely hate to pass skips with wood in them without a salvaging look-see!

Thank you so much for posting the pictures...yet again you send me on an Antipodean adventure of wonderment!

Jim

 

[Benchwayze]

If woodworking be your hobby well:

What is a hobby for, but to provide a pleasant way to help kill time?

Regards
John