Can't get " grip " on my wood screws to fit large face plate onto large monkey puzzle blank

[Kendle99]

Can't get the wood screws to " grip " my large face plate , onto my large monkey puzzle blank .
I am trying to fit the face plate onto end grain . Any tips out there ? Cheers

 

[Lazurus]

i often use coach screws and impact driver - I also drill additional holes in all my face plates as usually they are small and insufficient in number, just make sure the bolt heads clear the head stock. I have mounted some pretty big stuff this way on my VB36

 

[Chico]

I presume you are piloting?

 

[Alpha-Dave]

As above: bigger, better screws and modifying the face plate.

Also driving the screws in at a variety of angles that do not align to one another to inhibit easy pull-out.

Also alternative chucking methods:
1) drill a hole with a forstner using a drill press, and then use one of these, but also use tail-stock support if possible until close-to-round:
https://www.axminstertools.com/100mm-spigot-jaws-810067https://www.axminstertools.com/piranha-114mm-gripper-jaws-502670
2) I saw one of Glenn Lucas’ videos where he uses a drill arbor (I can’t remember the taper) as a drive for large blanks with a recess drilled:
https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-b16-2mt-arbor-700408

 

[Phil Pascoe]

i often use coach screws and impact driver - I also drill additional holes in all my face plates as usually they are small and insufficient in number, just make sure the bolt heads clear the head stock. I have mounted some pretty big stuff this way on my VB36View attachment 93637View attachment 93638

The additional holes in my faceplate are irregular - if I forget to mark the blank where it was taken off it can only go back in one position anyway.

 

[Kendle99]

My large face plate has 12 holes for screws . I pilot all the holes and have tried the recommended woodscrew with appropriate tapered heads , to fit in the recesses, to help stop any movement . Haven't tried coach screws , so I'll give it a go . I think the very fibrous nature of monkey puzzle wood ( especially end grain ) , does not help as a secure platform , to screw into ?

 

[J-G]

You should NEVER screw into end grain! All wood is 'fibrous' and a screw will simply cut through those and any stress placed upon the timber by a gouge will just rip the work away from the faceplate. I suppose you could support the free end with a live centre but if you're expecting to turn a bowl that wouldn't be practical.

If you must drive a blank with the grain running parallel to the lathe bed then you should hold it in a chuck -- I am assuming that it is a bowl type blank not a spindle of course.

 

[Kendle99]

Many thanks . I have drilled a hole to receive a live centre and will turn between centres with the tail stock in support .