Can you hand sharpen a bandsaw blade?

[Random Orbital Bob]

I mean I know it can be done but is there a relatively straightforward and quick way?

 

[Racers]

Yep, but it takes time. I did one with a needle file and lots of swearing (why did you start this you t**t)
Left it in the machine and filled each other tooth then the same again from the other side, it worked better than before but not much.

Pete

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Bugger....was afraid that would be the answer. Thanks Pete. I was rather hoping to avoid having to buy new all the time. Never mind. Even Tuffsaw's go blunt in the end

 

[Racers]

I am stuck with the 20 blades I got free with my Startrite 352, I have snapped 3 (bad welds) but I found out they can re-weld them at work so its going to be longer before I get a Tuffsaw blade.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Local saw doctor does them on a machine including hard point. They come back very sharp but not reset so some of them may not cut straight

 

[paulm]

I've resharpened 1.3tpi ripping blades before, reasonably successfully and quite quick, think the blades are 112" on the startrite. Used a small diameter grinding stone (also used for chainsaw chains) in a proxon/dremel, left the blade on the machine and a quick tickle of each tooth restored the sharp point and edge.

Obviously doesn't reset the teeth, and would be quite tedious on a small toothed blade, but easy enough on larger ones for rough work.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks Paul...interesting idea using a dremel. The blades in question are for turning blanks and they are designed for rough work so...not too tedious in fact. It was cherry and a bit of walnut that did for them!

 

[paulm]

Sounds like a dodgy batch of timber to me Rob, I had better come and take it off your hands before it does any more damage :lol:

Busted a fairly newish blade myself yesterday for no apparent reason, doing light cuts on some smallish timber, really annoying, luckly have a few spares in hand though, just a faff to have to stop and sort it out, retrack etc....

Cheers, Paul

 

[Steve Maskery]

If you do use a file to sharpen them, this is a good little tip.

Get a block of wood as high as your fence and put it so that it is trapped twixt blade and fence. It then supports the blade a few inches above the table, so you can sharpen it at a comfortable position and the blade isn't flexing. If you want to sharpen alternate teeth in opposite directions, you'll have to move the fence over to the RHS, of course.

S

 

[custard]

Life's too short...and Tuff Saws are so good!

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

ha...thanks all...some good tips there. Very kind offer Paul Because lets face it...you don't have enough wood yet do you Your're right of course Custard but just before the summer I spent about £40 with young Mr Tuffsaws and dam fine he is too as everyone has said here. I would just like to make do and mend a bit to extend their lives a tad because they're not knackered by any means

 

[iajon69]

I haven't been on any of forums for ages (not enough hours in the day!!) but was pointed in the direction of this thread and just wanted to share a video on youtube that shows how to sharpen a bandsaw blade:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws

If you've got a 3 or 4tpi blade, this method is great and fairly fast when you get the hang of it.

Ideally when you sharpen a blade, the teeth should be set as well but because the teeth are hardened this can cause them to break or the set to become irregular so its more trouble than it's worth.

By just touching the top of the teeth, you can get away with sharpening a blade 2 or 3 times before the set goes and it needs replacing.

Hopefully this will help a few people, but don't forget where I am when they can't be sharpened any further

Ian

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks Ian...that's kind. Don't worry I haven't lost your phone number

 

[dickm]

+1 for a chainsaw sharpening stone in a Dremel or dedicated Oregon chainsaw sharpener. Takes about 5 minutes on the 112" blade of a 352, and you should get a couple of goes at it before it's not worth the bother. Just check what stone diameter is likely to conform best to the tooth shape of the blade and don't dwell on any tooth too long.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Is the dremel stone you refer to (and Paul) the little conical one that comes with all Dremel sets? Looks a little like a conical pumice stone?

 

[paulm]

Conical might work Rob but I use a straight cylindrical one, like these http://www.tooled-up.com/product/dremel ... tAodlAYAVQ or similar.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

OK thanks Paul. I've not used that myself. I have a little dedicated chainsaw sharpener. Basically its a little grinding wheel mounted on a pull down mechanism with an adjustable turntable to align the angle of the chain link. Almost like a mini chopsaw but no slide mechanism. I'll give those dremel bits a try....with the chainsaw as well as the bandsaw.

Thanks for that

 

[paulm]

What you've described you're using already for the chainsaw will be better for the chainsaw Rob and I would stick to that for that purpose, the dremel and stone is less precise but a whole lot cheaper for a tight Scotsman !

The dremel stones I linked to last night can glaze over quite quickly as they are relatively fine grit, these ones are purpose made and a bit coarser so likely to last a bit longer http://www.newsawchains.co.uk/epages/es ... ucts/31397

Cheers, Paul

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Nice one Paul. Now......forget ye not that I'm (at least originally) a tight yorkshireman That chainsaw sharpener cost me the princely sum of about £28 from where I cant remember. Its very plastic and poor build quality but it does work and at £12 per sharpen from my local dealer...that's quite a saving.

I'll investigate the better wheels for the dremel for the bandsaw...thanks again.