Can you buy shooting boards?

[Benchwayze]

Hi Derek,
Indeed it is a gloatworthy tool. I have had the opportunity to buy one, but much as I would like one, I refuse to pay the price that 'collectors' have forced on it.

I have more than enough planes, but I still don't consider myself a collector. I use all of my planes; the reson for having three or four smoothers, is so I can switch without trouble, as soon one blade becomes dulled.

In common with many practicing woodworkers I think, that it's a shame collectors have pushed the price of fine tools through the roof!

But not to worry. Jim Kingshott left us plenty of information to make our own 51/52! (For the time when I have done all the woodwork SWIMBO wants).
ccasion5:

Cheers Derek, and enjoy your 51/52.

John

 

[johnjin]

Hi John
I quite agree that collectors have pushed the price of these tools up, but if it wasn't for collectors, I wonder just how many of these old tools would still be around. I think we should be thankful for the collectors as they have preserved and most often restored these tools to something like original condition.
Just in case you are wondering I am definitely not a collector.

All the best

John

 

[Joe]

Just in case you are wondering I am definitely not a collector.

I hope I detect a hint of irony in that statement John. I don't believe there are any woodworkers whose acquisition of tools is based strictly on practical and/or economic necessity.

Joel

 

[Benchwayze]

Aww ok.. I do buy tools sometimes because they are, well... just nice. But I couldn't justify 4 figures for a Holtey, however good they are. If I did buy one, I would be frit to use it, for fear of marking it!
I also see the irony that without collectors, some of these older tools wouldn't be around at all these days.

I have a guitar that poses a similar problem. So expensive to insure, that I have to take a risk, if I want to use it on a gig! But then, as my gigging days are few and far between, it doesn't really matter. ccasion5:

Regards
John

 

[bugbear]

I like David Finck's version on the Fine Woodworking site. This has a two-piece planing stop - one part is fixed, the other part, which fits over it, is movable. The advantage of this is that not only can wear be compensated for, but shims can be placed between the fixed and moving parts of the fence, rather than the fence and the work-piece. In the latter case, a shim towards the end of the piece being planed would lift it away from the fence, increasing the risk of "spelching". With Finck's design this problem is avoided.

Joel

That's very similar to the board on the "White Mountain" site:

http://www.fineboxes.com/ShootingBoard.htm

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

Is there anywhere that sells shooting boards? I don't really feel confident enough to make one that is dead accurate.

You're probably worrying too much:

1) You can use an inaccurate board to make accurate mitres by using it with shims.

2) If you make a two piece fence (see the rest of the thread) you can make it first, and tune it for accuracy later

BugBear

 

[johnjin]

Ok Joel
You caught me out with that one :wink:
Best wishes

John

 

[lurker]

I was admiring a 51 52 combo only the other day, that is in regular use.
Lovely tools!

As a matter of interest, how much do these sell for?
I believe the one I saw cost £1000 a few yeas ago.

 

[bugbear]

I was admiring a 51 52 combo only the other day, that is in regular use.
Lovely tools!

As a matter of interest, how much do these sell for?
I believe the one I saw cost £1000 a few yeas ago.

AFAIK that's "the going rate"

BugBear

 

[OPJ]

WiZeR, why don't you trust the Bosch mitre saw? I find it helps to to lock the head so it cannot travel forwards - but, I guess it depends on how wide the mitres are that you are wanting to cut... Do you not have a table saw?

Sorry, I know, this is a Hand Tool forum! If you're worried about the stop/fence moving as you screw it in place, that's easy to solve... After counterboring the two holes for the screwheads, fix one in place. Then, adjust it to match your square and clamp it in place. Check it again... If it's still okay then drive the screw home.

 

[wizer]

Thanks all. Been off colour since I posted this so haven't had a chance to play.

Olly. It's not really that I distrust it's accuracy (which I have found to be very good.) It's more the quality of the cut and for 'tweaking'. I realise a finer blade and a tighter insert will improve the cut. There is also very small pieces which can be a bit dangerous on the SCMS

The Triton isn't really setup to the best of it's ability at the moment, I have kinda set my sights on a replacement.

Ultimately guess I also wanted to explore slightly quieter approach.

 

[wizer]

Well had an hour in the workshop today and made some progress.

The Base is 18mm Ply 300mm x 500mm with a 200mm wide piece on top . I picked up some cutting board material in Wilko. I don't think it's the same stuff as Newt's. It only about 1.5mm thick. But it's more slippery than the ply alone so should be some improvement. For the fence I am using a piece of hardwood, anyone guess what it is?

I got as far as screwing the top to the bottom and had to call it a day. I have to affix the fence next. Need to read up about the best way to do that.

See I can get my buttocks in gear occasionally!

 

[wizer]

Excuse me while I think out loud.

Been doing some reading and there seems to be 2 ways of making the fence adjustable. 1. For squareness, rotating on one pin whilst securing on another. 2. For 'lengthening' the fence, moving towards the plane to replace damaged or 'over planed' fence end.

I wonder which is most important and indeed if there is a way to kill both birds with a single stone?

Something like..

Would have to be quite chunky angle and dead square.

 

[Tusses]

Something like..

Would have to be quite chunky angle and dead square.

That looks more like OSB or chipboard than ply to me

 

[woodbloke]

Your No 1 idea is the most important. If you mangle up the end it's quite easy then to just replace with another bit of timber...getting is square and adjustable is crucial - Rob

 

[Jake]

Just clamp a bit of scrap square with the engineering square, clamp the fence to the scrap, check it is square, and screw the fence down and move on!

 

[bugbear]

Excuse me while I think out loud.

Been doing some reading and there seems to be 2 ways of making the fence adjustable. 1. For squareness, rotating on one pin whilst securing on another. 2. For 'lengthening' the fence, moving towards the plane to replace damaged or 'over planed' fence end.

I wonder which is most important and indeed if there is a way to kill both birds with a single stone?

Use the "White Mountain" two part stop. Easy to make, adjust, maintain, and replace.

It's simply a working "face piece" screwed onto the main stop.

BugBear

 

[woodbloke]

Just clamp a bit of scrap square with the engineering square, clamp the fence to the scrap, check it is square, and screw the fence down and move on!

Jake - in my experience, that don't work The torque action of finally tightening the screws shifts the fence out of square by the tiniest fraction. The way I do it is to make the hole nearest the runway an interference fit for a traditional No10 steel wood screw (with a shank of plain steel) the hole furthest away is a sloppyish fit for a big cheesehead screw with a large washer underneath...this gives an element of adjustability so that the fence can be locked down dead square when it's set up at 90deg - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

I wonder which is most important and indeed if there is a way to kill both birds with a single stone?

If you feel confident with the router, then you could go for the wedge type. like this

Then if the end gets mangled, knock out the wedge, take a shaving off the sloping side, knock it back in and trim up the end

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Jake]

Just clamp a bit of scrap square with the engineering square, clamp the fence to the scrap, check it is square, and screw the fence down and move on!

Jake - in my experience, that don't work The torque action of finally tightening the screws shifts the fence out of square by the tiniest fraction. The way I do it is to make the hole nearest the runway an interference fit for a traditional No10 steel wood screw (with a shank of plain steel) the hole furthest away is a sloppyish fit for a big cheesehead screw with a large washer underneath...this gives an element of adjustability so that the fence can be locked down dead square when it's set up at 90deg - Rob

It worked for me, as verified by Moore & Wright, and saved me a bunch of fussing about making a really rather basic tool.