OPJ
Established Member
Reading your first paragraph, yes, I think you've got it!
:wink: The fence I've been talking about is indeed the one on the sliding table, which normally sits at 90º to the blade. Sorry if I didn't make this clear enough before. :roll:
With the rip fence (which runs parallel to the side of the blade) you can slide it back so it is before the blade and use it as a length stop for cutting very short components. It's very important that you don't use this fence in its full-length position like this, otherwise, the offcuts will get trapped between fence and blade and fired back towards you! :?
If you're cutting sheet material against the rip fence (man-made stuff), it can remain in its full-length position. If you're cutting solid timber however, it should be withdrawn so that the end of the fence does not extend past the the last cutting tooth.
How are you getting on with the saw, anyway? How does it perform? I just received one of Hammer's DVDs and have been drooling over the quality of their kit, dreaming even... They don't look too far away from the standards and quality of the Felder range at all.
With the rip fence (which runs parallel to the side of the blade) you can slide it back so it is before the blade and use it as a length stop for cutting very short components. It's very important that you don't use this fence in its full-length position like this, otherwise, the offcuts will get trapped between fence and blade and fired back towards you! :?
If you're cutting sheet material against the rip fence (man-made stuff), it can remain in its full-length position. If you're cutting solid timber however, it should be withdrawn so that the end of the fence does not extend past the the last cutting tooth.
How are you getting on with the saw, anyway? How does it perform? I just received one of Hammer's DVDs and have been drooling over the quality of their kit, dreaming even... They don't look too far away from the standards and quality of the Felder range at all.