can anyone help me set up my sliding table saw?

[miles_hot]

I have been given a table saw / panel saw - it has a sliding carriage and can handle a 8x4 sheet.

It has been slightly modified by the previous owner (the table on the right is different to the instruction book etc.) and I think that I'm nearly there but would really appreciate someone who actually knows say that its OK and help tune it up. I have an aversion to "I think" when dealing with such maters - I prefer "it is"

I am between Swindon and Newbury.

Miles

 

[wizer]

Pictures and words might also help to help. What's not right about it?

 

[beech1948]

I remember the set up of a table saw as something like:-

1) Make saw blade when raised to full height to be at right angles to the table
2) Set up right hand side mitre groove to be parallel with the saw blade by adjusting the table surface position relative to the saw blade. REfix table surface
3) make table surface level keeping saw and mitre groove parallel
4) Add on the sliding table and make the slider to be parallel to the saw blade
5) Align the sliders mitre bar with a 90 degree marker or pin or fastening such that it is at 90 degrees to the saw blade
6) level slider to table
7) test using 5 cuts technique to ensure that blade, slider and mitre gauge are all working squarely.

Worked for me. Just look at what you have and be logical about it one step at a time.

Others will be along soon to add to this if I am wrong.

Got any pictures so we can see what your problem is; what make and type is the saw

regards
Alan

 

[miles_hot]

Pictures and words might also help to help. What's not right about it?

I'll take some pictures tomorrow however I seem to have run out of adjustment and whilst it is close to square etc I don't think it's all the way there. Also its a safety thing really - I think its right however I don't know!

Miles

 

[George_N]

This thread by Scrit gives a very detailed description of how to set up your sliding table for dead square cuts.

 

[miles_hot]

This thread by Scrit gives a very detailed description of how to set up your sliding table for dead square cuts.

Indeed and I've tried to follow that sort of instruction, the ones in the books I've bought etc however given this is my first attempt any any such thing it would be nice if someone could help

Sounds pathetic however its a pretty big thing to mess up!

Pics to follow tomorrow

Miles

 

[beech1948]

Hi,

As it happens I will be in Swindon next week on Monday through Wednesday. I could volunteer to come take a look for an hour one night.

May be difficult to bring any tools with me. Sort of thing you might need would be:-
1 a straight edge to check for flatness
2 An accurate level to check for levelness
3) A dial gauge to check for blade movement relative to mitre slot
4) An engineers metal square to check for 90 degrees for blade to bed.
5) Some spanners to loosen/tighten saw table top so we could swing it a few degrees into alignment with saw blade and mitre slot.
6) Something to be used as very thin spacers between table top and frame/bedding points to adjuust level

What do you think

Alan

 

[miles_hot]

Hi,

As it happens I will be in Swindon next week on Monday through Wednesday. I could volunteer to come take a look for an hour one night.

May be difficult to bring any tools with me. Sort of thing you might need would be:-
1 a straight edge to check for flatness
2 An accurate level to check for levelness
3) A dial gauge to check for blade movement relative to mitre slot
4) An engineers metal square to check for 90 degrees for blade to bed.
5) Some spanners to loosen/tighten saw table top so we could swing it a few degrees into alignment with saw blade and mitre slot.
6) Something to be used as very thin spacers between table top and frame/bedding points to adjuust level

What do you think

Alan

That would be much appreciated - PM sent with contact details. I have most of the identified items however I lack the dial gauge unless you are talking about a calliper type thing and some fine spacers (do I need to buy some feeler things?). I have the sort of small square that you can take the blade out of - would this be sufficient? If I need to buy anything let me know and I'll make sure its in before you turn up.

What colour do you like your poison?

Miles

 

[beech1948]

Miles,

I'll try to bring a couple of measurement things with me so don't spend yet.

regards

alan

 

[miles_hot]

Miles,

I'll try to bring a couple of measurement things with me so don't spend yet.

regards

alan

excellent - thanks for that. Wednesday is looking to be the best evening...

Miles

 

[miles_hot]

The saw:

I have adjusted the fixed (right) table as tight as I can - too tight in fact as it now doesn't allow the blade to tilt however I needed to do this to set a parallel edge to attempt to line up the sliding section. I can back off the right table however I can't get the sliding (left) table any closer and I understand that a tight fit is best edited to add that the chunks taken out of the ali were not by me! javascript:emoticon(':shock:')

sliding table adjustment screws:

Screws to adjust the fixed table:

The scale on the fixed table is rather buckled and doesn't really index right:

Makers plate (Emco Max):

Maximum extension on the arm, however it would need some rollers etc as there's nothing structural about this!

The saw has an unusual feature in that the saw blade can be moved from the normal (locked position):

by pulling it towards you (not least to complete a 4' cut (I think):

Hope all these help - this is the first time I've posted pics so sorry if anything has gone wrong!

Miles :shock:

 

[OPJ]

I can't help you with your sliding table problem but, at a guess, I reckon you saw has an optional "radial-action" feature for cross-cutting. It's a bit like one of the larger Record Power saws - you lock the sliding table in place, clamp the timber down and pull the blade through to make the cut.

I could be wrong, of course...

 

[miles_hot]

I can't help you with your sliding table problem but, at a guess, I reckon you saw has an optional "radial-action" feature for cross-cutting. It's a bit like one of the larger Record Power saws - you lock the sliding table in place, clamp the timber down and pull the blade through to make the cut.

I could be wrong, of course...

Oh I see, a sort of ultra safe way as your hands can't be anywhere near the wood / blade?

 

[Jake]

Yes, it's a great function if the mechanism and the cross-cut fence is sorted (my CS70 has this, saves buying a mitre saw).

 

[OPJ]

Yeah, you should find that the fence can be repositioned to rear of the sliding table when cross-cutting wide sheets. If you're only cross-cutting timber, you normally have it set closest to you, so the wood is fully supported.

 

[miles_hot]

Yeah, you should find that the fence can be repositioned to rear of the sliding table when cross-cutting wide sheets. If you're only cross-cutting timber, you normally have it set closest to you, so the wood is fully supported.

I have to say I always get confused with front and back etc on the saw. There is no locking position when the saw is in it's "front" position i.e. closest to me and this would mean that the timber is least supported...

Miles

 

[OPJ]

Sorry, what I meant was that you should be able to lock the fence in two positions on the sliding table - one at the front (closest to you) and one at the rear. With the fence at the front, your limited to the width of material you can get between it and the blade with the table pulled back towards you so, this position is best-suited for cross-cutting timber. Set the fence so it's ahead of you and there's plenty of room between it and yourself to take a 4ft wide sheet of MDF. :wink:

 

[miles_hot]

Sorry, what I meant was that you should be able to lock the fence in two positions on the sliding table - one at the front (closest to you) and one at the rear. With the fence at the front, your limited to the width of material you can get between it and the blade with the table pulled back towards you so, this position is best-suited for cross-cutting timber. Set the fence so it's ahead of you and there's plenty of room between it and yourself to take a 4ft wide sheet of MDF. :wink:

Oh I see - thanks for the clarification. When I'm cutting sheet I just take the fence off the table leaving a flat surface as I have the sliding element of the table.

Miles

 

[OPJ]

No, sorry, you should always have a fence in place when cross-cutting! :shock: You release it from the front (nearest you) and you should be able to re-attach it to the rear (closer to the blade).

I'm not that familiar with your machine but, with most panel and dimension saws, you should be able to set the fence in a number of different positions. There are normally a series of holes, allowing you to set the fence in position for angled cuts, such as 45º and 30º.

Actually, looking at your photo's, it's already set in the rear position. There's no reason why you can't and shouldn't use it like this to crosscut timber though. Solid timber does have a greater resistance against a spinning blade though, so, it often helps to have that extra support from behind when pushing through the blade - I certainly wouldn't like to try the radial-arm function with the fence set as it is...! :? :wink:

 

[miles_hot]

No, sorry, you should always have a fence in place when cross-cutting! :shock: You release it from the front (nearest you) and you should be able to re-attach it to the rear (closer to the blade).

I'm not that familiar with your machine but, with most panel and dimension saws, you should be able to set the fence in a number of different positions. There are normally a series of holes, allowing you to set the fence in position for angled cuts, such as 45º and 30º.

Actually, looking at your photo's, it's already set in the rear position. There's no reason why you can't and shouldn't use it like this to crosscut timber though. Solid timber does have a greater resistance against a spinning blade though, so, it often helps to have that extra support from behind when pushing through the blade - I certainly wouldn't like to try the radial-arm function with the fence set as it is...! :? :wink:

Ah I fear I'm at cross communication with you - possibly as a result of lack of technical knowledge on my part. I took fence to mean that element which runs parallel with the blade - shown in the last few pics. I suspect from the above that you mean the bit that is attached to the sliding element of the table? I moved the bit which is perpendicular to the blade to the position furthest from me as I was cutting a panel up. If I was cross cutting it would be in the closest to me position. The saw actually has only one hole - the pivot - and a sort of clamp bracket which allows totally free movement to set the angle.

I thought you were proposing to use the parallel fence as a sort of stop for repeated cuts to the same length... My understanding was further hampered by the fact that I can move the short element of the parallel fence around which lead me to understand that you were suggesting sliding this towards me and using the pulling action of the blade mech to cut at the closest extreme to me - which didn't feel the safest option in the world

Hopefully I'm all clear now...mind you this does reinforce my desire for someone who actually understands this stuff to help me!

Miles