Camber vs Rounded Corners (plane blades)

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The way I was taught is that each plane blade should have a camber on it such that the normal level of projection of the blade for that particular plane from the sole is that amount of camber. Planes which take a larger bite have a larger camber. The reason as I understand and experience is that it maximises the width the particular plane can cut whilst still allowing you to control the cut. It also produces IMO a better aesthetically finish. If you just round over the corners of a smoother and the blade isn’t set perfectly parallel to the sole you will end up with wedge shaped cuts rather than extremely shallow scallops produced by a convex blade. Not an issue if your going to sand, but if you are going to sand don’t waste time with a smoother. A convex blade is more tolerant of slight setting issues as well as IMO not being knocked out of alignment as easily by knots etc.
 
Well, it's been interesting to see this thread evolve into something a bit heated ... but, all my (bevel down) planes have a slightly arced cutting edge. My no. 7 is more arced than my no. 5, which has a more pronounced arc than the barely perceptibly arced collection I have of my smoothers (no. 4s). I also tend to just barely knock the sharp corners off all my blades, with the no 7 knocked off more than the smoothing planes. They all work satisfactorily for me, and I adjust the cap iron's closeness to the cutting edge to suit the task in hand, e.g., further back for the no 7 than for the smoothing planes. My only bevel up planes are block planes and things like shoulder planes, all sharpened with a straight cutting edge, but the block planes do get the corners knocked off.

However, regarding what appeared to be a slightly bad tempered exchange about fitting a straight cap iron to an arced blade cutting edge, I've not experienced a problem with that, perhaps because the arc I put on my smoothing planes is very slight, so the mis-match is insignificant. It crosses my mind, though, that the edge of the cap iron could be also be arced to match the arc worked into the blade's cutting edge, but I can see that could also cause problems, such as the potential to leave a gap between the cap iron and the blade at the outer side limits. I can't say if that would be the case because I've never tried that, and never felt the need to do so. Basically, I work on the principle that what I do works for me, so why would I change it? Slainte.
 
WHAT WAS THAT!? CARP IRONS? SORRY, I CAN'T HEAR YOU OVER THE NOISE OF REAL SHAVINGS BEING PRODUCED!

[youtube]X23Z6S3DgGU[/youtube]

:lol:
 

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