Johnboy
Established Member
Any insulation in the floor Byron? I put 4" of fibreglass under my floor, nice and warm for my tootsies!!
John
John
Byrons Official Workshop Build Thread
- Thread starter ByronBlack
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
engineer one
Established Member
but jason think of the fires you could have had with a wooden floor :lol: :twisted: :twisted:
paul :wink:
paul :wink:
mailee
Established Member
My floor is all wooden T&G and I am very happy with it Byron. I have a lot of machines in there now and the wooden floor supports them all with no sign of distortion. Much nicer in my mind. :wink:
mel
Established Member
ohhh !!!! good work byron
cant wait for an update
can we have photos as well ????
havnt got much room left for new sheds myself {well maybe one more}
but have enjoyed making and maintaining the ones i have
the largest having a footprint of 5m x 6m not my shed thou , my wifes
it houses a spa tub now , which was not part of the original plan when i built it . so please , byron , dont scrimp on the floor
you never know what it will be used for in the future
regards
mel
cant wait for an update
can we have photos as well ????
havnt got much room left for new sheds myself {well maybe one more}
but have enjoyed making and maintaining the ones i have
the largest having a footprint of 5m x 6m not my shed thou , my wifes
it houses a spa tub now , which was not part of the original plan when i built it . so please , byron , dont scrimp on the floor
you never know what it will be used for in the future
regards
mel
ByronBlack
Established Member
Day 5 Summary/Update
State of play from end of day 4
Okay, so, i've just finished for another evening! 12 hour shift today! SWMBO has been helping me all day today aswell which was nice, and we had to make yet another trip out - B&Q this time.
A couple of tips, if your buying heavy poly sheet to put under your floor material, get it from either B&Q or Wickes, and not from Homebase, as Homebase charge almsot twice as much for it £10 instead of £5
Also, if you have one of B&Q's Performance Pro drills and want another batter - don't bother, buy another drill. The battery is £29 and a more powerful 14.4v drill is only £19! So I now have a couple of this drills - they aren't powerul and don't last too long, BUT for the price, they are excellent for small projects, and for various screw-driving tasks.
Anyway, onto the update.
I setup the SCMS today and cut the joist beams to length, the Trend extractor really helped here, captured about 70% of the dust. I also used it to cut my 14" noggins.
After a bit of measuring up, I started from the right hand side and put in 6 rows of noggins, not only did this take a lot of the bow and twist out of the joists, but really pulled the whole thing together and made it super rigid.
As you can see from the photo below, noggins going in: (the far left joist has only 8" noggins - I made a mistake with my centres)
A shot with all noggins in place, wedges and packers under any beams that don't see completely flat on the brickes (due to the bow in some of the joists):
A DPC will be run all down the left-hand side, and in-front of the drop-off, also the polysheet will be overlapped to again provide protection against damp or wetness from the soil, this shot shows the poly sheet attached - Note, I used two poly sheets for this, and overlapped to ensure a good seal:
Rocks are used to keep it from blowing up, until I get chance to staple it down all to the joists. The whole thing is now under tarpaulin, and tomorrow will see the start of the framing, luckily my dad is coming over to give me a hand, so SWMBO bless her socks gets a chance to chill out.
Day 5 Final Notes
Buy your supplies from Wickes if you get a chance, it's cheaper than most places and in my branch particualrly has excellent staff, unlike B&Q who seem to employ single-cell organisms and charge you twice the cost of the drill for a battery, muppets!
When laying your timber-frame, not all your joists will be flat, therefore make-sure the bow is in the middle, so that the end pieces rest on the furthest brickes/supports. You can then pack the middle to support it, however, i've found that once the noggins went in, the majority of teh bow disapeared and only a small amount of wedging was needed.
Final point about the base:
IT'S BLOODY HARDWORK!!!!! I did not like this stage at all, espeically as I was STUPID and had to start again with regards the timbers/bricks.
Can't wait for the real work to start tomorrow!!
State of play from end of day 4
Okay, so, i've just finished for another evening! 12 hour shift today! SWMBO has been helping me all day today aswell which was nice, and we had to make yet another trip out - B&Q this time.
A couple of tips, if your buying heavy poly sheet to put under your floor material, get it from either B&Q or Wickes, and not from Homebase, as Homebase charge almsot twice as much for it £10 instead of £5
Also, if you have one of B&Q's Performance Pro drills and want another batter - don't bother, buy another drill. The battery is £29 and a more powerful 14.4v drill is only £19! So I now have a couple of this drills - they aren't powerul and don't last too long, BUT for the price, they are excellent for small projects, and for various screw-driving tasks.
Anyway, onto the update.
I setup the SCMS today and cut the joist beams to length, the Trend extractor really helped here, captured about 70% of the dust. I also used it to cut my 14" noggins.
After a bit of measuring up, I started from the right hand side and put in 6 rows of noggins, not only did this take a lot of the bow and twist out of the joists, but really pulled the whole thing together and made it super rigid.
As you can see from the photo below, noggins going in: (the far left joist has only 8" noggins - I made a mistake with my centres)
A shot with all noggins in place, wedges and packers under any beams that don't see completely flat on the brickes (due to the bow in some of the joists):
A DPC will be run all down the left-hand side, and in-front of the drop-off, also the polysheet will be overlapped to again provide protection against damp or wetness from the soil, this shot shows the poly sheet attached - Note, I used two poly sheets for this, and overlapped to ensure a good seal:
Rocks are used to keep it from blowing up, until I get chance to staple it down all to the joists. The whole thing is now under tarpaulin, and tomorrow will see the start of the framing, luckily my dad is coming over to give me a hand, so SWMBO bless her socks gets a chance to chill out.
Day 5 Final Notes
Buy your supplies from Wickes if you get a chance, it's cheaper than most places and in my branch particualrly has excellent staff, unlike B&Q who seem to employ single-cell organisms and charge you twice the cost of the drill for a battery, muppets!
When laying your timber-frame, not all your joists will be flat, therefore make-sure the bow is in the middle, so that the end pieces rest on the furthest brickes/supports. You can then pack the middle to support it, however, i've found that once the noggins went in, the majority of teh bow disapeared and only a small amount of wedging was needed.
Final point about the base:
IT'S BLOODY HARDWORK!!!!! I did not like this stage at all, espeically as I was STUPID and had to start again with regards the timbers/bricks.
Can't wait for the real work to start tomorrow!!
Erm , you forgot to span the bricks with a timber / wall plate #-o
You dont need to add wedges as the weight of the floor will level out the timbers , in time .
Maybe i should stop posting on this thread as all i seem to be doing is telling you whats wrong
Sorry mate !
You dont need to add wedges as the weight of the floor will level out the timbers , in time .
Maybe i should stop posting on this thread as all i seem to be doing is telling you whats wrong
Sorry mate !
mailee
Established Member
It was this stage in my build that I really enjoyed it Byron as I bought myself a rather large framing nailer for the purpose. I felt like Rambo wielding the thing about. I agree about not bothering packing the joists up as the weight of the floor and shed will straighten them anyway. Just make sure the joists are level and the floor is level in both directions. It is looking good Byron and I am enjoying the thread, brings back good memories for me. :wink: Oh and keep up the photo diary for us all too, thanks.
I agree about not bothering packing the joists up as the weight of the floor and shed will straighten them anyway. Just make sure the joists are level and the floor is level in both directions. It is looking good Byron and I am enjoying the thread, brings back good memories for me. :wink: Oh and keep up the photo diary for us all too, thanks.
PowerTool
Established Member
Thanks for the excellent photos - it's starting to look good
(Now all you have to do is finish yours before Adam finishes his :wink: )
Andrew
(Now all you have to do is finish yours before Adam finishes his :wink: )
Andrew
ByronBlack
Established Member
Mailee, I wish I had a framing nailer for that part of the project, intead, all I had was a el-cheapo cordless drill and the help of the missus, took us about 6 hours to get all the noggins in - real painful work, my back and hamstrings are killing me this morning!
BUt atleast I've got the help of my dad for the next few days now for the frame!
JFC - no wall plate on the floor - don't even know what one is. I thought the wallplate went on top of the frame to allow the roof joists to be held in place, didn't realise there needed to be one on the bottom as well :?
BUt atleast I've got the help of my dad for the next few days now for the frame!
JFC - no wall plate on the floor - don't even know what one is. I thought the wallplate went on top of the frame to allow the roof joists to be held in place, didn't realise there needed to be one on the bottom as well :?
Byron , the wall plate goes on a bed of cement on top of the bricks to give an easier level for your joists and also something to fix the joists too . It would have helped you get the bow out of some of the joists also .
Still , im talking about house construction not shed construction .
Good luck with the rest of the build , its looking good
Still , im talking about house construction not shed construction .
Good luck with the rest of the build , its looking good
ByronBlack
Established Member
JFC - thanks for explaining that, my knowledge of construction is not great, the shed is only really going to be for light use, so hopefully I won't need the wall plate.
Just got some bad news, the cladding might not arrive until next thursday, so looks like things are going to be delayed somewhat - pipper!
Just got some bad news, the cladding might not arrive until next thursday, so looks like things are going to be delayed somewhat - pipper!
engineer one
Established Member
come on byron, what about global warming, you will soon regret having
walls :lol: :lol: :lol:
looking good but it is harder than you imagine it is going to be
isn't it??
:twisted:
paul :wink:
walls :lol: :lol: :lol:
looking good but it is harder than you imagine it is going to be
isn't it??
:twisted:
paul :wink:
ByronBlack
Established Member
I can't get the frames and roof up though, as the left-hand side frame needs to be clad before it's put up, as the gap between that and the fence means I can't get in to put the cladding on, so it'll have to go on first.
Paul, it's much harder!! Espeically the initial ground-work. Now I know why so many people hire mini-diggers, doing it by hand with a shovel is not fun! Also, in hindsight I would have thought more about the practicalities and ensured I had the most time-efficient tools, like a nail gun, some surveying gear to help me get things level and square, and of course a digger.
I think i'll definitly be hiring a nail-gun when it comes to the cladding though, don't fancy banging in a thousand and one nails!
Now the base is done, and the flooring is going down, I think i'll enjoy the next part more as it's more joinery than hard labour! and I don't have spend half the day bent-over trying to scew noggins in and keep them square!
Paul, it's much harder!! Espeically the initial ground-work. Now I know why so many people hire mini-diggers, doing it by hand with a shovel is not fun! Also, in hindsight I would have thought more about the practicalities and ensured I had the most time-efficient tools, like a nail gun, some surveying gear to help me get things level and square, and of course a digger.
I think i'll definitly be hiring a nail-gun when it comes to the cladding though, don't fancy banging in a thousand and one nails!
Now the base is done, and the flooring is going down, I think i'll enjoy the next part more as it's more joinery than hard labour! and I don't have spend half the day bent-over trying to scew noggins in and keep them square!
engineer one
Established Member
maybe you should have a "shed raising" and get others to help,
might be almost as good as philly's gathering :twisted: :lol:
paul :wink:
might be almost as good as philly's gathering :twisted: :lol:
paul :wink:
johnb
Established Member
Is that timber treated? It doesn't look as though it is tanalised nor does it look as though you've given in any "creosote".
I'd get as much rot-proofing treatment soaked into it as you can if you've got a few days waiting for the cladding - despite the other precautions.
I'd get as much rot-proofing treatment soaked into it as you can if you've got a few days waiting for the cladding - despite the other precautions.
ByronBlack
Established Member
Day 6 Summary
The original wood I was going to use for the floor has now been upgraded to use for the roof, after laying a couple of sheet, I realised it was nowhere near strong enough - again, a mistake I put down to inexperience and the desire to keep costs down. It was 12mm OSB, and has been upgraded to some nice and strong 18mm Shuttering Ply.
Here's a pic of the last panel going in, as you can see I had help from the local friendly Darlek:
The joists were treated with a wood preserver before for the floor went down (had to take up the polysheet, but was quite a quick job). I will be adding 'rim joists' or end-caps as I like to call them at a later date. But importantly, the joists are above ground, with ventilation on two sides, and plenty of support from laid bricks, and noggins to keep it rigid and provide ample support for the ply floor.
Here's a pic fo the finished floor, with a little of the framing work being started:
Day 6 Summary
Had the help of my dad which was good, we got the floor down in just over a couple of hours with plenty of rest during the job, yet another hot and sticky day to day.
The Festool was great to use, no mess and nice clean joints of the floor-sheets. I'm very impressed.
The floor is really sturdy, level and feels great under foot. I had to finish early, because being the muppet that I am didn't buy enough screws and I ran out half-way through the first frame. So I have to wait until monday for a new screwfix order, which is fine by me, as sunday I can concentrate cutting all the frame pieces to size and arranging on the floor ready to be joined.
This was a good day, and a lot more relaxed that the previous 5, i'm really starting to enjoy the experiance now
The original wood I was going to use for the floor has now been upgraded to use for the roof, after laying a couple of sheet, I realised it was nowhere near strong enough - again, a mistake I put down to inexperience and the desire to keep costs down. It was 12mm OSB, and has been upgraded to some nice and strong 18mm Shuttering Ply.
Here's a pic of the last panel going in, as you can see I had help from the local friendly Darlek:
The joists were treated with a wood preserver before for the floor went down (had to take up the polysheet, but was quite a quick job). I will be adding 'rim joists' or end-caps as I like to call them at a later date. But importantly, the joists are above ground, with ventilation on two sides, and plenty of support from laid bricks, and noggins to keep it rigid and provide ample support for the ply floor.
Here's a pic fo the finished floor, with a little of the framing work being started:
Day 6 Summary
Had the help of my dad which was good, we got the floor down in just over a couple of hours with plenty of rest during the job, yet another hot and sticky day to day.
The Festool was great to use, no mess and nice clean joints of the floor-sheets. I'm very impressed.
The floor is really sturdy, level and feels great under foot. I had to finish early, because being the muppet that I am didn't buy enough screws and I ran out half-way through the first frame. So I have to wait until monday for a new screwfix order, which is fine by me, as sunday I can concentrate cutting all the frame pieces to size and arranging on the floor ready to be joined.
This was a good day, and a lot more relaxed that the previous 5, i'm really starting to enjoy the experiance now
mailee
Established Member
You can erect the wall close to the fence side without any cladding and then lean through to fit on the cladding. I assume there is enough space for a nail gun to fit? Of course it does mean that you will have to treat the cladding before it goes up but that is no problem. :wink:
