Buying some planes.
- Thread starter Slim
- Start date
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Well, I got my new plane today. A veritas #6. I only had about 5 mins to try it out, but got some nice curly shavings off some oak, and a glass smooth finish.
Although it seems to work pretty well out of the box, is there any tuning you would suggest for a brand new plane?
Also, I have the JET whetsone shapener. Do you think this is sufficient for a plane iron, or would you suggest investing in some finer grit wetstones and a honing guide?
Although it seems to work pretty well out of the box, is there any tuning you would suggest for a brand new plane?
Also, I have the JET whetsone shapener. Do you think this is sufficient for a plane iron, or would you suggest investing in some finer grit wetstones and a honing guide?
woodbloke
Established Member
Slimjim81 wrote:
I use DMT diamond stones, leather strop and a Mr C modified Eclipse clone honing guide which works for me, tho' others will be along directly with a differing view - Rob
Your Veritas should not need any tuning, in fact if you have to do anything other than hone the blade it should be sent back.
Your Jet grinder is used to set the primary bevel on the blade, that will already be done on the new Veritas blade. For future use you may want to invest in some bench sone/stones, either Arkansas, Diamond or Waterstones or the scarysharp method is a cheap alternative in that it uses sheet papers such as silicon carbide (wet and dry). I sharpen a little different to most people in that I go from a 100 grit hand-crank grindstone straight to a 8000 waterstone - nothing inbetween. No honing guide. There are many ways to achieve the same outcome.
Your Jet grinder is used to set the primary bevel on the blade, that will already be done on the new Veritas blade. For future use you may want to invest in some bench sone/stones, either Arkansas, Diamond or Waterstones or the scarysharp method is a cheap alternative in that it uses sheet papers such as silicon carbide (wet and dry). I sharpen a little different to most people in that I go from a 100 grit hand-crank grindstone straight to a 8000 waterstone - nothing inbetween. No honing guide. There are many ways to achieve the same outcome.
Paul Chapman
Established Member
Slimjim81":1glv90h3 said:
You will see this type of grinder demonstrated at shows for final honing of blades and the final polish put on using the leather wheel. My own view is that this risks rounding over the edge. Like Rob I use diamond stones (extra fine green one last) but other stones are preferred by some. I also use the Eclipse guide then the leather strop, which is glued to some thick MDF to ensure it is flat. I pinched the idea from Rob of using jewellers rouge (sold in a stick - maroon colour) and Vaseline on the strop. The jewellers rouge gives a great polish and the Vaseline stops the build-up of gunge on the strop and keeps it nice and supple. However, I would suggest you keep the blade in the honing guide as you draw the bevel backwards over the strop so you don't round it over. Then do the other side keeping it dead flat.
There are lots of other methods though. Gidon uses some diamond stones then some film (can't remember the name) on them which looked very good. Maybe he'll be along later.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
The JET stone to my mind produces a reasonably smooth primary grind when prepared with the smooth dressing stone. However, I didn't get great results after finishing on the leather wheel. As I already had waterstones, LV bevel jig etc, I use that still to put on a microbevel (with the 4000 grit stone from an Axminster Icebear kit). I find the combination of the JET and the benchstone makes sharpening the dullest, out of shape blade very quick and easy.
cheers,
Ike
