Buying and modifying kitchen carcasses

[virtualpostcards]

Hello all, I posted this earlier in the Aaaaarrrrgghh... thread, just as everyone left the room! Noel suggested I try again here.

I'm a forum newbie and have been drawn in by this thread. I've just completed my level 2 aca bench joinery but am not working as a joiner, instead doing simple private work at customers houses,.

My most pressing task however is my own kitchen which I am hoping to put together quickly as we have a baby on the way.

Building from scratch is probably out as I have neither the time , space or experience, however the idea of buying in carcasses and fixing a face frame and doors appeals, but I need a little guidance.

First of all I need to source the cabs, Brad, I read your post with interest, particularly your source for cheap custom cabs. Can you tell me who they are and where they are based? Do they do the wirework as well or do you get this seperately?

Secondly, whats the best way of fixing a face frame and what is the best sequence of work? The kitchen will be u-shaped, shaker style, with two (possibly three) corner units. Most of all I dont understand how you go about building the drawers. (Intending to use undermounted soft closers)

Sorry to fire so much at you in my first post, but need must!

Cheers

 

[BradNaylor]

Building from scratch is probably out as I have neither the time , space or experience, however the idea of buying in carcasses and fixing a face frame and doors appeals, but I need a little guidance.

First of all I need to source the cabs, Brad, I read your post with interest, particularly your source for cheap custom cabs. Can you tell me who they are and where they are based?

Where are you? My supplier is in Stockport but can arrange delivery within a reasonable distance of civilisation. PM me if you want their details. There must be hundreds of similar firms all over country, though. About one and a half million kitchens are made and sold in the UK every year. My place makes about 30 a week. That means there must be an awful lot of kitchen carcass manufacturers out there!

Do they do the wirework as well or do you get this seperately? Most of all I dont understand how you go about building the drawers. (Intending to use undermounted soft closers)

I buy most of my wirework and also my wooden drawers here http://www.ldlonline.co.uk/

You didn't think I actually made wooden kitchen drawers, did you? :lol:

Secondly, whats the best way of fixing a face frame?

Dominos.

Cheers
Brad

 

[virtualpostcards]

Thanks for the info Brad, will PM you.

I am in London but travel to Lancaster quite often, unless someone can recommend somewhere nearer? I like the fact that your place will make custom sizes though.

My idea would be to level a sheet of 18mm ply on plastic legs for the run of units, then just place them on top, spaced by blocks of, say, 15mm mdf to ensure uniform spacing, followed by pinning face frame to the spacers before making doors to fit.

My questions are:

whether its better to treat each unit seperately ie with its own face frame, or to attach longer lengths to the run of units.

what are the usual dimensions for timber used for doors and face frame?(planning on using tulipwood or similar for painted finish)

Assuming I can buy drawer boxes of the right dimensions ,(looking at woodfix) do I fit drawers then face frame to match or vice versa?Am hoping to use soft close under mounted runners which I've never used before.

As for Domino, I'd love one but alas more humble methods will have to be employed.

cheers

 

[ondablade]

Seems to me like there's not much point competing with firms geared up with CNC and the like to make flat pack cabinets.

IKEA are well worth a look, but if it's like over here there's lots of other options at differing quality levels and and especially costs (mostly the latter!) out there too. Don't write off IKEA without taking a look - they are way ahead of where the likes of MFI were in years gone by.

I can't fault IKEA stuff for quality and accuracy at very competitive prices, and their design is pretty decent too if you like the more contemporary look. They have quite a few styles and finishes for drawer fronts and doors, and lots of built in optional engineered accessories to suit their dimensions too. There's 'kitchen makers' over here that install nothing but IKEA, maybe on occasion with their own doors and drawer fronts.

There's plenty companies doing doors and drawer fronts in stock sizes too, don't know if they fit IKEA stuff.

A fairly recent development over here is prefab lacquered sheet metal drawers from Hettich - while a little pricey they have become very widely used over here, and build up into a very nice looking and functioning unit....

 

[Oryxdesign]

I'm not far from London VP and I might be able to help you out with your requirements.

For fitting your face frames you could screw extra spacers to the back and then pin through the sides of the cabinets to hold it in place.

Ikea doors and drawer fronts are a different size to the other sheds by the way.

Simon

 

[CNC Paul]

VP,

One thing you will need to look at is quite a lot of manufactures set back their top rails and bases to get over any dimensional tolerance, not usally a problem, but it will when trying to fit face frames.

Why not just pocket screw through the carcase sides in to the face frame

 

[Nev Hallam]

I agree pocket screw the face frame is a good idea. In answer to your previous question, I prefer making a full width frame, I think it looks better ties it all in makes it look more like a piece of furniture.

 

[Nev Hallam]

I agree pocket screw the face frame is a good idea. In answer to your previous question, I prefer making a full width frame, I think it looks better ties it all in makes it look more like a piece of furniture.

 

[chippy1970]

Thats how I have fixed face frames in the past too I pocket screwed on the out side of the carcase before fitting so it was all hidden, this may be more difficult on a long run of units though.

Here it is from a couple of years ago

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/face ... ce%20frame

 

[dannykaye]

there is always the New Yankee Workshop kitchen episodes, for example http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0801-0809
http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?9909
to see the whole list
http://www.newyankee.com/byCategory.php?Kitchen Project

 

[hunggaur]

hi guys i have just in the process of re doing my kitchen,

i kept the the original cabinets which were all but new and were from B&Q then faced these with a 6mm thick ash frame to hide the edge of the cabinets.

I secured this face framing to the cabinets with strong glue and some 15mm brads. I yes i used long strips of ash

I then made and hung new ash shaker style doors. I will post picture of the finished kitchen in about a weeks time as i have just got to make the kick boards.

hope this helps

jon

 

[woof]

Great thread here. I am also looking into this and am looking at online suppliers at the moment. What folks on here had told me, and what my wanderings to date have come up with:
1. Ikea - disadvantage is no service space behind.
2. B&Q "posh range" - Cooke and Lewis - these look well built, but SWMBO did not like the veneer, was indeed a bit PVC-like and let the finish down otherwise would be good.
3. WIckes - cheap
4. Grahams - not sure if this is a national outlet but pretty overpriced.
5. Howdens - no more comment above my musings on the other thread.

So now I am looking online or trying to find local manufacturers. I found discountkitchenfactory very competitive - anyone any experience with them? problem for me is most online suppliers are up north, e.g. these guys are in lancashire and its a long way to go to look to check for quality.

 

[Oryxdesign]

I can probably help you too Woof, have a look at this. www.codainteriors.co.uk

Simon

 

[hunggaur]

I found discountkitchenfactory very competitive - anyone any experience with them? problem for me is most online suppliers are up north, e.g. these guys are in lancashire and its a long way to go to look to check for quality.

Do some research on these as one of the big internet direct ones got very bad reviews on watch dog not sure if it was these but worth checking just to be safe

kind regards

jon

 

[woof]

Do some research on these as one of the big internet direct ones got very bad reviews on watch dog not sure if it was these but worth checking just to be safe

kind regards

jon

Wow - space kitchens (which still seems to operate) has a 5 year thread documenting the scams, bullying tactics etc

http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=40518

Thanks for the heads up Jon

 

[virtualpostcards]

Thank you all for your replies so far.

Pocket holes seem unanimous, and not too expensive to buy, so that bit is sorted.

I am still confused about how best to build a drawer unit. I can see its probably simple once you know how but I cant work out whether you fit runners inside carcass, fit drawers then face frame around what youve made (presume this is the way) or face frame first to give you definite and visible spacings to fill.

Btw is a jig necessary for self closing drawer runners? maintaining accurate spacing around drawers and doors is important. This is where I would need to step up in accuracy.

Simon, your work seems top class and I doubt I could afford it (not saying you are pricey mind, just that budget limited!) but I might be in touch to check.

 

[virtualpostcards]

I often hear about the lack of a service gap on IKEA kitchens and have fitted one myself, and never quite understand why it matters except for the end of a run.

If you bring it forward of services a gap is formed and no need to butcher the backs. I appreciate it might mean using a wider worktop, but if this is not an issue are there any disadvantages I've not considered?

 

[Oryxdesign]

Thank you all for your replies so far.

Pocket holes seem unanimous, and not too expensive to buy, so that bit is sorted.

I am still confused about how best to build a drawer unit. I can see its probably simple once you know how but I cant work out whether you fit runners inside carcass, fit drawers then face frame around what youve made (presume this is the way) or face frame first to give you definite and visible spacings to fill.

Btw is a jig necessary for self closing drawer runners? maintaining accurate spacing around drawers and doors is important. This is where I would need to step up in accuracy.

Simon, your work seems top class and I doubt I could afford it (not saying you are pricey mind, just that budget limited!) but I might be in touch to check.

It's still worth you popping in for a chat. I can show you how to make a drawer and show you drawer runners etc. A chat is for free and I'll make you a cup of tea or coffee.

Simon

 

[virtualpostcards]

Simon,

Thats a very kind offer indeed and I'd love to take you up on it,maybe PM to organise a time that suits?

Milk and one sugar btw!

 

[Oryxdesign]

Great