Burnisher or screwdriver?

[Trafalgar]

I like to maintain that any hardwood can be planed with suitable technique.

Some of the very obstinate ones can be a little furry, but light sanding sorts this out.

David Charlesworth

I've just had great success with my newly sharpened scraper, which will be followed with sanding. Thanks for the input.

Agree!

I suspect that those who think a scraper is something to be avoided don't understand their proper use or capability. A properly scraped surface is simply indistinguishable from a planed surface. Without having been there watching, one wouldn't know one way or the other.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I suspect that those who think a scraper is something to be avoided don't understand their proper use or capability. A properly scraped surface is simply indistinguishable from a planed surface. Without having been there watching, one wouldn't know one way or the other.

A few years ago I built a pair of campaign chests in Jarrah. I was concerned about break out at the dovetails, and for this reason preferred to smooth the wood with a cabinet (card) scraper than a smoothing plane. There was more control this way and it was possible to lift the blade just before hitting the dovetails.

The finish off a scraper is not usually as reflective as from a smoother, but I was happy with the finish here ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Sawyer]

I have one made from an old file; it's oval in section. Very cheap, very hard and works well.

 

[bugbear]

I have one made from an old file; it's oval in section. Very cheap, very hard and works well.

Thanks for reminding me - Jim Kingshott (one of his books) spoke of grinding the teeth of a saw file, and then polishing.

BugBear

 

[David C]

Pete,

Steeper effective pitch with back bevels. Very effective and does not require tight mouth.

I have recently been using the close set chipbreaker described by Kawai and Kato. This is a bit trickier, but again does not need tight mouth.

best wishes,
David

 

[Racers]

I to have had good results with a close set chip breaker (just the merest sliver reflected light from the blade) of on silver birch burr which is very soft and the grain goes all over the place.
I do like scraper for removing old finish (old cracked varnish on plane handles) and they are useful for smoothing shaped surfaces where you can't plane.
I have been filling pippy oak with epoxy and coffee and they take the excess off very well.

Pete

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Pete,

I have been filling pippy oak with epoxy and coffee and they take the excess off very well.

Which epoxy do you use?

Thanks,
Neil

 

[Racers]

I use Wilcos or I did, I went to get some more and they only have quick setting stuff!
I guess I will have to buy some and test it, the price had gone up as well! I am sure it was just under £2 not its £2.95! not happy!
I tried araldite but it went off as I stirred in the ground coffee!

http://www.wilko.com/adhesives/wilko-ra ... BMST=epoxy

Pete

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Pete,

I use Wilcos or I did, I went to get some more and they only have quick setting stuff!
I guess I will have to buy some and test it, the price had gone up as well! I am sure it was just under £2 not its £2.95! not happy!

Could you please update me on the results when you fork out the money to buy some? If it helps, I'll invest a pound in your purchase.

Thanks,
Neil

 

[David C]

Pete,
totally agree.

For flat surfaces I much prefer to use a scraper plane of some sort. Less chance of causing hollows.

For shaped work I find the card scraper invaluable.

best wishes,
David