Burgess BK3 keeps jamming/stopping

[wineprovider]

In reply to Powertools...........................A new drive belt was fitted yesterday

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Steve thanks for the input.............if you take a look at the short video you can see the thickness of the wood..
The blade has approx 17 tpi. It is a little difficult at my age to count them but it could only be 1-2 out of exactly correct.
Night all.

17TPI? it only needs 3 or 4 - 6 max.

 

[MIGNAL]

That's more like a metal cutting blade - which will cut wood but only best used on very thin stuff.

 

[powertools]

In reply to Powertools...........................A new drive belt was fitted yesterday

I can read and noticed that you had said that a new belt was fitted.
I said that it either needed adjusting or was overloaded and if you are really saying that the blade is 17tpi and you are trying to cut wood there is your answer. The belt is jumping because it is overloaded.

 

[Steve Maskery]

You have totally the wrong blade for the job.
As a general rule you need at least 3 teeth in the workpiece, but as few as you can get away with. Ripping produces big curls which means you need big gullets to carry them away. You do not get big gullets with 17 TPI!
Step 1 - Buy a suitable blade from Ian John At Tuffsaws.
Step 2 - Buy a good DVD on on bandsaw setup. I'm probably not supposed to say that. Oops, it just slipped out.
S

 

[wineprovider]

Just checked my spare belt which isn`t ????? it`s a sanding belt. I`ve ordered a new one and will get back and notify members of the progress I`ve made when it arrives and fitted.
Regards to all,
Martyn

 

[wineprovider]

Problem cured. The blade I fitted width is less and has less teeth per inch.
My thanks to all who help.
Stay good,
wineprovider

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Thought so.

 

[shipbadger]

Interested in the comments about the number of teeth on the blades for these bandsaws. My geriatric BBS mk II normally runs with a 32 tpi blade. Allows me to cut aluminium and plywood with no problem and if taken slowly the odd piece of softwood. I've another four or five blades with lower teeth (tooth?) count but they're only changed over if I have a lot of work to do.

Glad the OPs problem is sorted. I did think of getting rid of the Burgess when I bought the Scheppach Basato 3, but it's too useful.

Tony Comber

 

[wineprovider]

Not sure if it was just the teeth count.
There was a combination of 3 things but my problem is cured so I`m very happy.
Regards to all,
Martyn

 

[wineprovider]

Just an update.
After a short period when I thought it was cured the problem got progressively worse.
I got fed up and sourced a repair chap in Bristol to look at the saw.
The problem was an arching on off switch so after renewing it all seems well.
I hope it remains so.
Regards to all.

PS...........Andy ......who repaired the saw gave me a spare switch should anyone need one. He`s a first class chap.

 

[AndyT]

Oh I should have thought of that. The original switch is pretty light weight. Mine wore out - but the symptom was that it often took several goes to make it turn on. I replaced it with a suitably rated toggle switch. Maybe worth mentioning on here in case anyone else gets the same problem.
(I'm not the Andy who repaired the OP's saw. )

 

[shipbadger]

S'funny, I replaced my machine's switch many years ago, same symptom, took several goes to turn it on.

Tony Comber

 

[wineprovider]

Things just aren`t right.
When it was tested at the repair shop things seemed well and I posted what I thought was done to cure my problem.
After reading various posts and replies I took advice from the forum and replaced the existing blade with a 561/2" X1/2" 10tpi. On fitting it the blade kept jumping off. I tried adjusting things but it kept getting off. Then I noticed there was some wear on the housing where it had been rubbing.
Now I`ve refitted the smaller blade but this pressure problem is still existing.
I tightened the drive belt and noticed that the ribbed belt was being driven by a small blue pulley on a shaft going to the motor which is secured by 2 grub screws either side. When I was doing this I noticed there was a ribbing on the blue belt drive which matched the cogs on the belt. Maybe there should be teeth on the drive pulley and it needs replacing. Like,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,where could I get one of those?
Any further advice may help stop these sleepless nights.
Regards to all.
Martyn...................................wineprovider

 

[AndyT]

Hi
There should be teeth on the belt and on both small and large pulleys. This is mine:

As for buying spares, I believe that Record Power took over Burgess so try approaching them if you need a part.

 

[wineprovider]

This what I have, clearly different to yours Charley.
I wonder if any members are breaking a BK3 or know where I can get this authentic pulley from?

 

[wineprovider]

CHARLEY.................Can I please ask you a favor.....Can you count the teeth on your pulley and forward to me please. I think I can buy one on ebay but I wont use the count on mine as they are either all gone ,,,,, or never there anyway.
Kind regards,
Martyn

 

[Reggie]

marchant dice should do a metal pulley for that, that'll stop them stripping again.

 

[wineprovider]

Thanks Reggie...............I`ve emailed them quite a descriptive request but as I don`t have the original I`m now hoping for the best.
Thanks again and kind regards,
Martyn

 

[AndyT]

CHARLEY.................Can I please ask you a favor.....Can you count the teeth on your pulley and forward to me please. I think I can buy one on ebay but I wont use the count on mine as they are either all gone ,,,,, or never there anyway.
Kind regards,
Martyn

Hi Marty

Do you mean me? (All email notifications come from Charley who owns the site.)

I've been and checked now the tennis is over. There are 14 teeth with an outside diameter of about 21.4mm, a base diameter of 18.7mm and a flange 28.7mm across. The pulley is a push fit over a cross pin which sits in a pair of oblique slots.