building a router table

[selly]

I want to build myself a router table but if I'm being honest I don't think I can be bothered to stick together two sheets of plywood and then mess about with laminate etc. (don't even have enough clamps!).

Can I use an old kitchen/ bathroom worktop that is already covered in plastic laminate (is this formica?). I do understand that it can warp if not covered either side but I think i have an old piece from my mothers vanity unit from her bedroom that is laminate both sides - perhaps this won't warp but its probably chipboard inside.

Are their reasons why people don't use this? too slippy? Not availible? Can I cut a hole in these ok?

Apologies for the stupid questions, I'm learning!

 

[Argee]

I want to build myself a router table but if I'm being honest I don't think I can be bothered to stick together two sheets of plywood and then mess about with laminate etc. (don't even have enough clamps!).

No doubt others will be along shortly, but I'll make a start.

Generally, if I "can't be bothered" I know I'll pay for it in the long term down the line. A router table - by the nature of the work it will be involved in - needs to be accurately and robustly made if it's going to be of any use. Yes, you can whang an insert into any old material, clamp something across it to act as a fence, but - aside from the considerable safety issues - it won't be pleasant to use at all.

You could use screws from underneath to hold the two sheets together while the glue cures (after marking out where the hole will be, of course!) in lieu of clamps. Laminate is not essential, just easier to work on for most routing tasks. "Naked" plywood can be OK too, provided its smooth and won't be subject to damp conditions.

Can I use an old kitchen/ bathroom worktop that is already covered in plastic laminate (is this formica?). I do understand that it can warp if not covered either side but I think i have an old piece from my mothers vanity unit from her bedroom that is laminate both sides - perhaps this won't warp but its probably chipboard inside.

You could bet on it being a chipboard core, so not all that strong, especially once you cut a hole into it.

Are their reasons why people don't use this? too slippy? Not availible? Can I cut a hole in these ok?

Too low-grade a core for the purpose and too easy to deflect horizontally when leaned on would be my reasons to avoid it. If you want the workpieces to slide past the bit, then - in theory - it can't be "too slippy," but even if it were, a light sanding would dull it sufficiently. You can cut a hole in it, but due to the low-grade core, getting the insert to sit in the hole accurately might be a little tricky, especially compared to two sheets of ply or MDF, laminated together.

Apologies for the stupid questions, I'm learning!

No such thing as a stupid question - just fire away.

Ray.

 

[j]

I used an offcut of kitchen worktop, I haven't laminated the bottom, and it seems absolutely fine to me.

HTH
J

 

[misterfish]

Yes, it's what i used for my router table. I picked up a damaged 1.5m length at what used to be Great Mills (now Focus) a few years ago for £2.50 - the 'damage' was a slight chip at one end. The whole top is covered with laminate which goes round the front and for a few centimeters on the underside at the front edge. I didn't think I was chancing too much with this purchase.

Anyway, a few years on and it is still going strong and shows no sign of warping or wear. The most difficult part was routing the hole for the insert, but a bit of patience and it worked out fine.

I built a fairly substantial frame with M & T joints and also used an Axminster cast iron fence system. Finally I put adjusters on the bottoms of the legs as my previous workshop had uneven floors. Consequently it is a heavy beast and stable in use. The laminate top is nice and slippy and I find it comfortable to use. One of these days I'll build in storage underneath and a sawdust collecting system.

MisterFish

 

[ike]

I've used kitchen worktop in a similar application. Very little faff involved using this material IMO. Liberally seal the edges and underside with varnish and you have a nice stiff and stable top which will stay flat . Never had a problem so far.

cheers,

Ike

 

[tnimble]

I've build my router table from a 2x0.5 m hardwood panel. Both top and bottom have a coat of varnish on them. This works perfectly fine wood slides very smooth and still very flat. I also use this table for clamping, finishing jobs and some hand tool work.

I've installed an split alu fence which runs on threaded rod. Which makes it very easy to set it very accurately.

Maybe this year of the next I'm going to install an improved dust collection below the table in the form of an air tight (except for the router bit opening :wink: ) box around the router. And add T slots for a mitre gauge and stop blocks.

 

[lurker]

I'm getting a bit confused here!

Are some of you saying worktops which I assume are chipboard that is faced, makes a good top. Argee says chipboard is no good.

Reason I ask is that I have a Birch ply faced chipboard fire door (about 2" thick) I thought I would make a router table with. If I cut this I'll "expose" 2 ends that can easily be edged plus the hole in the middle for the router plate. If I seal the chipboard exposed then I assume there will be no movement. Does this make sense?

Advice please on router plates & guide rails

 

[tnimble]

The only drawbacks in using chipboard I can see is that mounting the router firmly could be a potential problem due to the low pressured chips that can easily break out or impress when screwing / botling in them. Also making the router opening could be a bit of a problem but doing that carefully and sealing the exposed edge afterwards is no huge problem. Chipboard can lose it flatness due to moister but you're not working with water on it.

In ply of solid wood the router can be mounter better and easier and you have the possibility to add T slots for fences, mitres and stop blocks.. although with real thick chipboard that should be possible also.

 

[lurker]

Thanks!

I'll forget the fire door then

A bit of usable Ply is bound to come along eventually.

 

[Argee]

Argee says chipboard is no good.

To be fair, what I said was in response to the part of the OP's text that read: "an old piece from my mothers vanity unit from her bedroom." In my experience, bedroom vanity units are nowhere near the thickness of kitchen worktops, which is mainly what's been mentioned since. I definitely wouldn't use bedroom vanity material, but kitchen worktops are something else altogether. tnimble reinforces the point about making the opening.

Ray.

 

[tiler99]

I used 2 pieces of 18mm MDF glue together and applied clear varnish. Feel smooth enough to me.....Oh and the Big Triton is a dream to use

 

[j]

I'd just like to add, that kitchen worktop is a good place to start.
If this is your first router table, I'd keep it simple and cheap. Once you know what it does well, and what you wish it would do, you'll have a better idea of to look for when you make your next one.

Try and get hold of some either free or cheap worktop, and give it a go. My router table is made of the cutout piece of worktop where the sink was fitted in my brother's kitchen. Also, the sheds will often heavily discount damaged pieces of worktop. I got a 4m length (which is my main work surface in the garage) for £5

Do a bit of reading on this forum, ask questions and give it a go. What have you got to lose?

You may well find that a simple kitchen worktop router table will do all you ask of it.

HTH
J

 

[DomValente]

Having never made a router table I have a question.
Does using a standard worktop(40mm) mean you need an extension collet and if so would it not be easier to use 18mm with strengthening crossways?

Dom

 

[OLD]

I have also used thick work top for a router table but i lipped all cut ends and the side and also sealed the hole cut for the plate so quite a process really but we all know what happens when chipboard gets damp .Would i do it again no.

 

[stewart]

Hi Dom
It's not the thickness of the table that needs to be taken into account when working out loss of plunge depth but the thickness of the plate the router is hung from.

 

[Scrums]

Dom wrote:

Does using a standard worktop(40mm) mean you need an extension collet

Not quite in my experience.....though it could help.

What you do need is something like a 'Routalift' and a fine adjuster - you need to drop the router so far to be able to secure a new cutter in the collet.

On the subject of kitchen work surface, I've found it's not very flat in the first place, but you can overcome that by building your cabinet and top so that with a couple of strategically fitted bolts and wedges you can 'flex' the worksurface to take out any bow, which mostly is side to side, rather than front to back.

Chris

 

[mailee]

As you can see below the finger joint jig is my table top which is also made of ex breakfast bar. (well brand new actually, it was an offcut) As long as it is supported well around and under it is fine. I have even cut a groove in mine for the 'T' track and it is flat and fine. I did originally use two layers of MDF but it did warp so I had to replace it, this fitted the bill nicely. I inlaid a router plate into the opening to take my big Hitachi M12 and it holds it well. :wink:

 

[DomValente]

Thanks for the answer Chris, just curious.

Dom

 

[Niki]

Hi Selly

Have a look at my - so called - router table, I have it 8 years.

The top is 21 mm plywood and 2 years ago, I covered it with 8 mm "Floor panels" (Plastic laminate or Formica that are the same).

The router - Hitachi M8, is mounted directly on the "Floor panel" so the height loss is only 8 mm.

I don't use any "router table insert" because I'm using bits up to 30mm diameter and the hole is drilled with the bit itself.

Because of the nature of this Workmate, I can lift the top without any connection to the legs, that gives me good access for bit change.

I leave the primitive router lift such as to press the router up (10 mm is enough) so all the router weight falls on the "U" and that way, prevents any sagging.

niki

 

[selly]

Thanks for all the replys.

looking again at the vanity unit it is plywood underneath but quite thin. I think that I'll build a decent stand for it and then use this laminate plywood perhaps thicken it up with another layer of plywood underneath and seal this. Hopefully this will be strong enough for a while and thereafter I will think about replacing it if it gets a bit weak with the proper job in a few years time.

As it is going to the tip otherwise i feel it won't be entirely wasted!