brass infill plane - ready made?

[mickthetree]

I got these mahogany doors out of an old schools last year some time.

They had various bits of brass on them, handles, hinges, screws etc. Held onto them and just had a look at one of the hinges.

They are attached at the very top and bottom of the doors and are pretty hefty.

Not really up on my metal work but could I drill through the bass and make some wooden infills and call myself a plane maker? ;-)

Cant see any joint marks, can brass be cast into a mould? Could this be one piece? and if so is that suitable for use in this way?

Its pretty thick stock so theres some room for error ;-)

I have the screws I took out when I removed it from the door. I still have the bit of mahogany that came out of it I think.

I have another 2 of these I think. Shame the other 8 or so went into landfill along with the other doors.

Philly! Tell me its a goer

 

[Aled Dafis]

Can't see why not. Your biggest issue will be opening the mouth as I'm guessing that you don't have access to a milling machine.

Give it a go, You've nothing to lose.

Cheers

Aled

 

[TheTiddles]

It'd make a nice shooting board plane, the mouth might be awkward as Aled says

Aidan

 

[mickthetree]

Hmmmmm. As it happens, one of my customers I run a website for are precision engineers. They have all sorts of CNC, milling machines etc. think i'll pop in and see them Monday. ;-)

 

[jimi43]

Interesting week for adaptations to infill planes isn't it!?

Those are some hefty pieces of brass you have there! I'd give it a go too and PLEASE post pictures of what you do.

Cheers

Jim

 

[Philly]

Go for it Mick - you'll learn a lot and have nothing to lose
Philly

 

[Modernist]

You might have a problem as the bottom corners probably have a radius and if you remove it the sides may be too thin.

Sorry to be a wet blanket

 

[mickthetree]

no that's fine Modernist. Its good to know what to look out for. I cant see any joins at the moment, but as I understand it, that doesn't mean they aren't there! The corners come to a neat square, but it all needs some trimming.

I'll need to slice that lump off the back end, but I got some metal cutting bits with my bandsaw, so maybe that will work.

Never done any work with metal before, so a steep learning curve coming up.

I'll take lots of pics.

 

[Modernist]

no that's fine Modernist. Its good to know what to look out for. I cant see any joins at the moment, but as I understand it, that doesn't mean they aren't there! The corners come to a neat square, but it all needs some trimming.

I'll need to slice that lump off the back end, but I got some metal cutting bits with my bandsaw, so maybe that will work.

Never done any work with metal before, so a steep learning curve coming up.

I'll take lots of pics.

That's good news. I'd just use a hand hacksaw to cut the end off. It'll be quicker than changing the blade and it would need to be a lot slower than for wood. Good luck with the project and keep us posted.

 

[mickthetree]

perfect, I will do just that. Didnt fancy filling my bandsaw with filings anyway!

I've read numerous pages on the web about making infill planes, but I'm confused as to how far back the mouth should be and how wide to make it.

Any suggestions on where to look? Are there any good books on this?

Making and modifying woodworking tools? Would that cover this?

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Mick,

Without a milling machine I think you'll need to open the mouth with the right sized drill-bit. A line of holes, then hand-file to size. That's pretty serious hand-metalwork to a novice I'd think, and I wouldn't like to try it. And ISTR you need to anneal brass before you work it. Or is that just virgin metal?

Living near to Aston, I can usually locate one-man-band engineers' who are very good at helping out, especially when to them it is something different.

Jim Kingshott mentions that the thickness of the blade will have some bearing on the size of the mouth, pretty obvious, but of course he has to mention it. He also advises a steel sole to a shop-made plane as they wear better.

To position the mouth, I would think that copying the dimensions of your Stanley would suffice. But it will depend on how much room you have for the frog, once you do that. I'm working in the dark really, but hth!

All the best with the job. It's an interesting one.
Cheers
John

 

[Philly]

Mick
Traditionally a third of the way back, although I would sketch out your design full-size to see where the top of the blade will be so you have room to grip the thing.
Hope this helps,
Philly

 

[mickthetree]

I couldnt find any spare hacksaw blades and the one I had was knackerd after I lent it to a mate. :?

So changed the blade in my bandsaw and whipped the lump at the back off.

Had a dig around in my box of "bits" and found this marples plane iron with chip breaker.

Its only just wider than the plane body (I'm already calling it a plane! haha!)

Is this suitable? If so I intend to cut it down to width and use that. Been having a look around the web and seen options for holding the blade. Could possibly modify a lever cap from a tatty old baily no.3 I have, or use a wedge. I like the idea of a wedge personally. Either way I will have to drill the sides.

I'm sketching up some ideas as per Philly's suggestion so I dont get too far ahead of myself.

So many examples on the interweb!

 

[jimi43]

See Mick! Whatever wizer says...the Rutlands catalogue has its uses!



That lump looks like the brass sheet has been folded....then the back piece brazed to make a box...can't quite see from that photo.

Good luck anyway.

I would go for the wood infill front and back...and a Norris/Spiers type adjuster as on the Galoot thread. In fact what Derek (from Oz) has done there is basically the same as what you are trying to do only he started with a steel plane sole and you are starting with a door hinge!

Cheers

Jim