Brand new to turning! Any advice appreciated!

[Tazmaniandevil]

The parting tool was partially blunt .

One of the hardest parts is keeping tools sharp for us beginners. You may need to sharpen your tools more than once while working the same piece. I made a very basic sharpening jig based on this one, which is a great help. Dead simple to make, and easy to use. I have marked mine with positions for the various tools for quicker set up.
Keep the pics coming though. I was a bit reluctant to post anything when I first joined, but everyone has been so kind with the comments.

 

[L2wis]

I have been in the shed again this evening, this time to experiment with cutting curves! I've not got any oil or wax as such yet so I applied some general machine oil haha.

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

That shape shows the grain well. Drill a hole in the top and hey presto - candle holder.

Cooking oil, machine oil, old candle stubs..... I've used them all from time to time, due to my tight budget. Beware of some oils though. You may never get rid of the stink. I've used the candles as a friction polish type thing. Sand to 600 grit, then apply the wax and sand again. The sanding friction melts the wax and some kind of capillary action draws the melted wax into the fibres. Then a bit of 1000 grit wet & dry with olive oil, followed by a dry paper towel to take any residue off.
Take care with the wax, if you use it, as an uneven application can leave a residue which is a bugger to get rid of.

Since then, I have invested in a few finishes. One of the best aids to finishing is sanding sealer. (from about £6/litre) Sticks of beeswax/carnauba give a really pleasing result, and don't cost the earth. If you watch the Carl Jacobson vids on youtube, he uses paste wax and abrasive on his work. That will be my next experiment.
It pays to buy decent abrasives too. A friend gave me a box full of packets of A4(ish) abrasive, you know the type of stuff - 4 different grades in the packet, made in China. Total garbage. Much better to spend a few bucks on rolls of the stuff. Lasts longer and gives far better results.

 

[Leo]

I have also used candle wax and cooking oils, in fact i use cooking oil on pieces that are for the kitchen and will be washed and re oiled from time to time,like er er a cutting board for instance.

I have had more problems with beeswax and canuba wax going blotchy in damp conditions than I ever had with candle wax, just not good in the sun, as it melts at a lover temperature.

As said, I have drawers full of that rubbish sandpaper that I bought a long time ago, but it is ok for practice,if it's all you've got, best results are from good sand papers. Another thing is that you will use less and less sandpaper as you progress, due to getting a better finish right off the tool.

Practice practice and then a little bit more practice...............enjoy the ride.


Leo

 

[nev]

...
It pays to buy decent abrasives too. A friend gave me a box full of packets of A4(ish) abrasive, you know the type of stuff - 4 different grades in the packet, made in China. Total garbage. Much better to spend a few bucks on rolls of the stuff. Lasts longer and gives far better results.

completely agree not only does it give you a better finish, its a lot less work too.
if i am allowed, i can highly recommend the rhino stuff from Richard http://www.turnersworkshop.co.uk/ its improved my stuff no end and has the added bonus of being velcro backed so you can cut out circles for your sanding arbour

(another must have tool, esp. if you venture into bowl making, but at least its at the cheap end of the scale )

 

[L2wis]

Again thanks for all the info guys. Leo/Taz I tried out the candle wax it worked great! I rubbed the wax onto the piece them buffed it with a square if kitchen roll.

Someone earlier mentioned carl from youtube, he's the reason I got into woodturning!! Mineral oil and paste wax haha and finishing up with 600. I think they're his catch phrases.

Bench grinder and some proper sandpaper will be my next purchases.