Box sash windows

[Jim mcgrath]

Does anyone know where I could find a book or dvd on how to construct box sash windows. There doesn’t seem to be much info on the internet.
I saw a sliding window the other day, that uses springs instead of weights. I would settle for a book on how to make these if that’s all that is available.
Thanks.

 

[Jacob]

Does anyone know where I could find a book or dvd on how to construct box sash windows. There doesn’t seem to be much info on the internet.
I saw a sliding window the other day, that uses springs instead of weights. I would settle for a book on how to make these if that’s all that is available.
Thanks.

SPAB is one source of info. https://www.spab.org.uk/
and the Scottish equivalent https://www.shbt.org.uk/
Old joinery books are good; best is "Building Construction" W B Mckay
Best source of all is to take out a window and pull it apart to see how it's done.

​

 

[Ollie78]

Do not use the spiral balances.
There is some reference in modern practical joinery by Ellis.
The constriction is actually fairly simple and varies in detail by period and region.
As said above , copy an existing one.

 

[niall Y]

I would echo @Jacob and say W B McKay The section on Joinery is available as a separate book. The relevant bit is Chapter 10, on Cased Frame Windows.

 

[Doug71]

Bradshaw Joinery did a full series on making one, I haven't watched it but he knows his stuff and generally gives good advice.

 

[johnnyb]

I echo Jacob but suggest window and doormaking republished by lost art press. Why do you fancy learning to make one? This may help to pinpoint what's Best.

 

[Jim mcgrath]

The old house where I have a hobby workshop has a couple of box sash windows, hence my interest. I was going to take apart one of these as it is badly damaged anyway.
The house was built in 1880 odd. Is it likely that glue would have been used in the construction of these windows?

 

[niall Y]

Wedges and hide glue on the sliding sashes. but the boxes would just have been nailed with wedges into the sill. However, stiffening blocks would have been glued in position, to reinforce the top of the box frame.

 

[meccarroll]

There are tons of videos on utube about box sash windows. I have some off-cut sections pinned together from when I made some sliding sash windows:

Below shows the general layout and construction details. Generally they will be made from 20-22mm PSE (Planed Sides and Edges) softwood timber. If you take a look at the left that is the outer section and forms a lip to hold the sash in, then you have a middle section that has a groove to take parting bead, the sashes sit either side and finally the inner box section where you pin a piece of staff bead to hold the inner sash in once all of the sashes have been fit. So quite a simple construction really.


Ignore the piece of wood between it's just there to hold the sections together, the void is where the weights pass up and down and would be separated by a slip of ply or thin pece of softwood (to stop the weights from getting tangled up).

The cill is quite staightfoward just two slopes and a flat on the inner side where the staff bead is pinned.

The box sections are usually cut through the cill to the bottom of the cill and either pinned or screwed to the cill. the old way would be to cut out a groove in the cill and house the middle section in the cill but that always formed a rot spot so I just cut and scribe mine over the cill which has worked well for years.

You can put a mould on the front section (which I do) but it's not needed just makes the box look pretty.

Hope this helps to get you started.

 

[johnnyb]

Here's a few snaps of a frame me and 1275gt put together. It uses more traditional joints and nailed on front/back which is very common.

 

[johnnyb]

Sorry the last pic is something else altogether.

 

[johnnyb]

This also shows the pulleys and the weight pocket(later internal style)

 

[Cooper]

What a brilliant thread this is!!
It's brought back so many memories of renovating our 1880s house and the McKay illustrations are beautiful.
So much better than reading about polititions clothes and the failings of the police.
You have really cheered me up this morning.

 

[Fitzroy]

The box sections are usually cut through the cill to the bottom of the cill and either pinned or screwed to the cill. the old way would be to cut out a groove in the cill and house the middle section in the cill but that always formed a rot spot so I just cut and scribe mine over the cill which has worked well for years.

I've been thinking that this creates a rot pocket for a while, however I'm confused by the alternate you are suggesting. How is the pulley stile affixed to the cill?

 

[Jacob]

I've been thinking that this creates a rot pocket for a while, however I'm confused by the alternate you are suggesting. How is the pulley stile affixed to the cill?

it shows you in the drawings above from WB McKay. A housing and a wedge. This is how it is always done. There isn't another way. Rot is down to poor maintenance and it is always going to hit the lower end of things first, the cill, then the lower end of stiles and linings, then bottom rails etc
McKays drawings are of their time and fairly high spec in some ways - in the field shortcuts are found. Most common is to have the stile not tongued into housings in the linings as shown, but just butted up, glued and nailed. Looks a cheapo but seems to last! If retro-fitting a sash this make the job much easier as it can be fitted without the inside linings in place, then fitted afterwards.