Bookcase depths

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tim

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In case you were wondering, I've not abandoned the forum, just rather busy so please forgive the silence.

I'm quoting on some work at the mo involving a few bookcases and I was wondering if anyone can point me to an info source on average bookshelf depths for various types of books rather than me measuring a few of my books and guessing how much room to leave etc.

Cheers

Tim
 
The ones in my house are all 12". That includes the ones I've bought (pre woodworking) and the ones I've made.
 
Tim you will never get this one correct. Some publisher will always create a new dimension you have not allowed for.
 
I have some pine bookshelves on the wall in the office, the shelves are only just tall enough to hold small paperbacks, any hardbacks have to be laid down :(

I'd make them a bit bigger than the average book, so you can fit MOST books in them. You'll never get them right to fit all books.
 
Hi Tim...welcome to the forum :wink:

Are we talking depth as in front to back dimension or depth as in the spacing vertically between the shelves?

Regardless...I agree with other posts...it all depends on what type of books/magazines are being stored. There are also some schools of thought who like their books stored flat as that makes the titles easier to read.

Lateral thought...what dimensions does your local library use?
 
Library strips (you can find some good quality ones) are one answer to the eternal question.

Also, what do you think of the idea of a loose 'L' section 'backfence' in the design - that can simply be placed at the back of a particular shelf to cater for smaller format books?

cheers,

ike
 
I suppose book sizes can be compared to the modern equiverlent of software formats? No one will conform or set an agreed standard.
 
Okay - the problem I have is that it isn't just a few books but c 8,000. The problem is that they are all of varying sizes and the client can't unpack them because it would take forever and then there wouldn't be anywhere to put them.

I don't have a prob working out the oversize shelves (front to back) some c 450mm, some 350mm but for the smaller, more paperback size a shelf depth of 300mm means that there is either wasted space behind the books which they normally get pushed back into and topple or that the cabinets theemselves are unnecessarily deep. Because of the size of the project there is scope for having stepped bookcases ie of differing depths (and would look good as a result) - I'm thinking c 230mm for paperbacks.

Cheers

Tim
 
Tim,
8000 books !. That's not a few bookcases. that's a library :shock:

Adjustable shelfs out of the question then?

I hope that we will get to see pictures when complete.


Andy
 
time, just a couple of useful numbers from my over sized library.

tallest books come out at 340mm so allow at least 360. most of those will fit on 280 deep shelves, but some books are landscape, and then will need to be about 300 deep, so for the bigger books, i find in most cases 280-300 deep.

then i have a number of books which are 250 high and 180 deep.
some special paper backs i have are210 high by 160 deep.

other more mainstream paper backs would be about 200 highest,
and max 150 deep.

for a decent look i tend to aim for up to the height of 1200-1220
three shelves for the bigger books, with the upper shelves being up to the
ceiling, but set back.

so you would have the lower bit about 300 deep, with the top being
between 160 and 200 deep.

what about reading or display stations where some books are placed upon
slanted shelves like lecterns and displayed open, or they could be places where you could stand and look at books. so some kind of sliding
system might be useful and maybe even good looking.

another thought is of course if you have doors on the shelves, otherwise
the dust is a bummer, then if the top shelves are set back, people will
always put objects on them, so maybe leave a display space of about 300
between the wider and narrower shelves.

as has been said before inset strips, or i actually used my dd40 to set the holes for the brass inserts and shelf supports. after years of making solid
book cases with 2 internal shelve fixed, i found this latest effort much easier.

final thought, if like me you are using mdf for the shelves, then they do need covering with varnish or something to stop the moisture leaching out of the shelves into the books. :cry:

also don't for get to look out for a magazine space, although they tend to fit within the 300 high profile.

look forward to seeing some of it.
paul :wink:
 
Thanks for the feedback - very useful stuff Paul.

Re lecterns the lucky winner of the commission also gets to do the whole study next door to include lectern, desk - very exciting, unexpected and rather unnerving at the mo as you can imagine. Its for the same client that I did the orangery cabinet and TV cabinet so here's hoping (but you never know!)

They don't want bookcase strip but a lot of the shleves will need to be adjustable so I can see much hole drilling approaching!

As soon as I know I shall let you know the state of play and obviously share my drawings etc, exultation or disappointment (delete as appropriate).

Cheers

Tim
 
Mr_Grimsdale":2dn6op5n said:
engineer one":2dn6op5n said:
snip
final thought, if like me you are using mdf for the shelves, then they do need covering with varnish or something to stop the moisture leaching out of the shelves into the books. :cry:

snip
paul :wink:

mdf for shelves? How do you stop it bending?

One of those useless bits of knowledge I once picked up is that you can insert dummy books ( timber sheathed with a book cover) to hold up and stop a shelve from sagging.
 
other wise don't make them too long, and lip either the front or rear
with joined up real wood. in my case oak eventually. :lol:

i find that under 600 mm the bending is not too bad, and anyway that is
a sensible size for easy movement.

paul :wink:
 
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