Bm16 Morticer

[Bingy man]

I have the r/p bm16 Morticer and It came with a set of r p mortise chisels. I recently tried the largest of these on a piece of old furniture ( reclaimed oak ) and despite the machines good reviews it seams to struggle getting through a 30 mm x 40 mm piece of oak , tried it with a piece of 3 x 2 softwood but that too was a bit of a struggle. I followed the instructions for setting up the bit as best as I could understand but not sure if it’s my set up or the so called ( free) 3 piece set of chisels that’s the issue. Either way I’d like to upgrade to a better set and would appreciate all help and advice on setting up the chisels, and using them to get the best results. Many thanks.

 

[Doug71]

Some good info here

https://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=5038&p=76946&hilit=morticer+guide#p76946

 

[johnnyb]

just to add my bit. I've been using a william ridgway bm3. I recently finished rebuilding a sedgwick. the difference in effort to mortice is remarkable. the bm3 is very hard going giving me strained stomach muscles with some oak. the sedgwick is just very little effort at all. I'm guessing that it's the gearing. is this what you mean. the distance the drill is in front of the chisel is also critical. to far out and it can wander to close and its really really hard going.
I use clico and multico. really 2 different styles but they both work a treat and little to choose between them. the cheaper Taiwanese chisels I've never used though.( are they 3/4 shank?)

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have a 20 y. o. Rexon machine which is good enough for anything I wish to do. I use a cheap set of chisels which are fine ............... because I sharpened the chisels properly with a diamond cone and mirror polished the sides. A good needle file on the auger helped as well.

 

[Bingy man]

just to add my bit. I've been using a william ridgway bm3. I recently finished rebuilding a sedgwick. the difference in effort to mortice is remarkable. the bm3 is very hard going giving me strained stomach muscles with some oak. the sedgwick is just very little effort at all. I'm guessing that it's the gearing. is this what you mean. the distance the drill is in front of the chisel is also critical. to far out and it can wander to close and its really really hard going.
I use clico and multico. really 2 different styles but they both work a treat and little to choose between them. the cheaper Taiwanese chisels I've never used though.( are they 3/4 shank?)

Yeh I’ve been reading the info in the link from @Doug71 - so I’ve picked up a few good tips from that - as far as the effort required to plunge say 25 mm into the oak it seams like it was struggling ( not burning though) I’ve not had any experience of any type of morticer so it’s difficult for me to gauge weather it’s my technique or my set up . I did buy a cone tool for sharpening the chisel but I have no experience sharpening auger bits . I’ll have another go when I’ve got a bit of time and yes it was the largest mortise that came with the machine I think its was 3/4. I should have mentioned the bm16 Is brand new. Many thanks for your replying.

 

[Ollie78]

I had one of those, it's not man enough for a big chisel on oak even if its a sharp chisel and auger.
Maybe on tulip wood or redwood, just about. A 12mm chisel is as big as I would go on that machine.
I sold mine and got a bigger one.

Ollie

 

[Bingy man]

Thought of getting a jig for the router but they seamed to much of a faff . Would it make more sense to use a smaller chisel but make more passes or do as you did and sell it , it does feel like I could use my drill press with a regular drill bit and clean up with a normal chisel. I don’t have the space for a bigger machine.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yeh I’ve been reading the info in the link from @Doug71 - so I’ve picked up a few good tips from that - as far as the effort required to plunge say 25 mm into the oak it seams like it was struggling ( not burning though) I’ve not had any experience of any type of morticer so it’s difficult for me to gauge weather it’s my technique or my set up . I did buy a cone tool for sharpening the chisel but I have no experience sharpening auger bits . I’ll have another go when I’ve got a bit of time and yes it was the largest mortise that came with the machine I think its was 3/4. I should have mentioned the bm16 Is brand new. Many thanks for your replying.

Augers aren't hard to sharpen unless damaged - just clean up the leading edges. I believe the "16" is a reference to 16mm, and even that is optimistic in hardwood.

 

[Ollie78]

Thought of getting a jig for the router but they seamed to much of a faff . Would it make more sense to use a smaller chisel but make more passes or do as you did and sell it , it does feel like I could use my drill press with a regular drill bit and clean up with a normal chisel. I don’t have the space for a bigger machine.

A 12mm chisel is probably OK if its sharp or a 10mm. I prefer the Japanese pattern bits, there is no reason not to do more smaller passes.
A good method is helpful, like not plunging in all the way down in each position (imagining a normal mortice being 3 times the chisel width for example)
plunge in a bit, say 10 mm, move to position 2, plunge in 15mm move to position 3 and go, 20mm, repeat untill depth is reached, this allows a better chip clearance, once the mortice is mostly clean run it through in full depth passes, overlapping a bit to clean it up really nice.
Second tip use a vacuum as you go, you can set up a nozzle that aims at the throat area or just hold it there as you plunge.

The bigger machine I got ( an old Wadkin EDA ) was not a huge amount bigger in horizontal area, though the wheel does stick out more at the front ,its mostly just taller as it has a base, I put it on wheels.


Ollie

 

[Bingy man]

I will definitely try again probably when I’ve not got my son with me so distractions . I really appreciate the advice especially when I’m slightly out of my comfort zone.