Blanket Box

[mtr1]

Just finished this, I've made it to sell, but I might keep it. I realise it's not to most peoples taste on here, but I'm liking this traditional stuff more and more lately. I would say that most of my market seem to like this more trad stuff too, age, rural location, older properties might be a factor?
I think I should of perhaps carved the panels to be more in-line with the period, but I don't like them, so that's why they got a fielded one instead.

I think I should of had a centre muntin on the end..oh well next time. I haven't as yet decided what finish to use, I was thinking boiled linseed oil but I think I heard it can go a bit rancid, true...false? The wip is on my blog if you feel like it, thanks for looking.

 

[Chems]

This is the same design as the one that Tommy mac did isn't it?

Its really really nice (your one). Sell that one, carve the panels for yourself for the next one!

 

[mtr1]

Yes similar, I watched the videos a week ago, I've changed a few details so it's not exactly the same.

 

[MickCheese]

I really like your blanket chest. I like the beading.

I would sell it only because you seem to be talking yourself into a more elaborate one and it appears you may be disappointed in the plain one you have made.

I think it will sell easily.

Mick

 

[No skills]

Good looking piece. Whats the price range for something like that?

 

[RogerM]

Just finished this, I've made it to sell, but I might keep it. I realise it's not to most peoples taste on here, but I'm liking this traditional stuff more and more lately.

Well it's certainly to my taste. I'd agree with you about including a central muntin on the ends. Of course there is nothing to stop you including some carving on fielded panels. Here's one I made earlier which included my first attempt at wood carving. If I was to make another (and SWMBO wants one) then I would be a bit more adventurous.

Nice job, but sounds like you are making an excuse to sell and make another. Any ideas on finishes yet? Lots of peeps here swear by Osmo PolyX, denibbed and then with a final coat of wax.

 

[mtr1]

Bit of confusion, I really like this one, and don't like carved panels. But wouldn't mind making another one anyway, the cost to me on this was £60 materials so far, and 20 hrs. I need to fit a bottom possibly cedar, and I also need to finish it somehow so perhaps another 6hrs. As for value, I haven't thought about it, because I was thinking about keeping it. But if I was selling, I would hope to get £700/£800, seems a lot for what is essentially a box :lol: What value do other people place on it?

 

[woodbloke]

I'm very surprised that the finish wasn't applied during the making process. F'rinstance, finishing the panels now that it's all together will be very difficult indeed as they ought to be polished and waxed before they go into the frame as it's well nigh impossible as it is now to get the finish satisfactorily into the recesses of the corners - Rob

 

[mtr1]

I do find that an oil finish has a tendency to creep into the grooves and haven't noticed a problem so far. If it was being lacquered then I would have wiped some on the edges prior to glue up, different finishes require different methods after all.

 

[joiner_sim]

I really like this, a nice traditional piece. How have you managed to keep your materials cost down to £60?

 

[woodbloke]

I do find that an oil finish has a tendency to creep into the grooves and haven't noticed a problem so far. If it was being lacquered then I would have wiped some on the edges prior to glue up, different finishes require different methods after all.

That's true...but an oiled finish still needs severial coats and needs to be ne-nibbed and buffed when dry and you simply can't do that if the whole piece is assembled. You won't be able to get the necessary polishing cloths etc into the recesses where the panel meets the frame. Polishing a piece after it's been made only works if the surfaces in question are relatively smooth with no places that are inaccessible. Unfortunately in that blanket chest, you've got loads

It also looks like the top is a couple solid planks, but the shots of the inside of the lid appear to show that the screws aren't slot screwed into the underside. If they are just screwed in via that bracket using a round hole, you'll find movement problems in the lid later on...cracks and probably more than one - Rob

 

[mtr1]

Rob, look at the piece its hardly fine furniture, rustic I think its called. A flawless finish just wouldn't look right imho. Never had a problem before doing it like this, time will tell. As I said if being lacquered, I would of done something. But I have thought about a scrubbed bleach finish also, which is just water and bleach, or perhaps a fumed look and just waxed. still haven't decided tbh. The bearers have the hole bigger than the screw, so can move, also I have been a professional cabinet maker for 22yrs, so kinda feel I know a little bit about furniture making. :lol: :lol: The slotted holes would look far to modern imho, but I have taken steps to ensure the top can move.

 

[No skills]

Stuff me, if thats rustic I'll get back in my skip

IMO a good looking object, maybe I'll be able to produce something similar one day. Out of interest how much bigger have you made the screw holes to allow for movement of the top?

 

[woodbloke]

Rob, look at the piece its hardly fine furniture, rustic I think its called. A flawless finish just wouldn't look right imho. Never had a problem before doing it like this, time will tell. As I said if being lacquered, I would of done something. But I have thought about a scrubbed bleach finish also, which is just water and bleach, or perhaps a fumed look and just waxed. still haven't decided tbh. The bearers have the hole bigger than the screw, so can move, also I have been a professional cabinet maker for 22yrs, so kinda feel I know a little bit about furniture making. :lol: :lol: The slotted holes would look far to modern imho, but I have taken steps to ensure the top can move.

Fair enoughski Mark, if that's the desired effect you were after, but if that's 'rustic' I'd like to see some of your 'fine' furniture :wink: :lol: Were I making something like that, I'd have kept the paneling feature, which is great, and done away with some of beading work on the frames because for me, it makes it look a bit 'fussy'...but then that's just me, fussy! :lol: :lol: - Rob

 

[Chataigner]

I've already commented elsewhere, but I really like this and so does SWMBO who would like something similar. Nice one!

 

[Richard T]

It's certainly to my taste. It's really good to know that someone can still make a box like that.
I've long harboured ambitions to make panelled boxes/settles with blacksmithed fixings and furniture - clenched nails in new pieces will thoroughly confuse a dealer every time.

I use boiled linseed oil on tool handles; never had any rancid episodes. Don't know about how it would be as a finish for foot of bed box though, other than it would retain that certain putty aroma for a long time.

 

[kirkpoore1]

I think I should of had a centre muntin on the end..oh well next time. I haven't as yet decided what finish to use, I was thinking boiled linseed oil but I think I heard it can go a bit rancid, true...false? The wip is on my blog if you feel like it, thanks for looking.

Mark, that looks really good. I think you're right that a stile in the end to split that very wide panel would have looked and probably worked better. It'll probably be just fine, though, as long as you've got enough overlap to allow for the panel to expand and contract without showing the edge.

The linseed oil will work well. Yes, it would have been better to pre-finish the panels, but since it's winter and the panels have presumably shrunk up as much as they're going to, getting into the corners all the way should prevent any visible unfinished lines. The linseed oil won't go rancid. However, after you wipe it on and let it sit for a little while (15 minutes or so), wipe off the excess thoroughly. If you do a heavy coat and let it sit, it will skin over and produce a stick mess that you'll have to scrape off. Yuck.

The linseed oil will also darken the wood over time, of course.

Rob is right about those battens possibly splitting the top. I'd elongate the holes at each end so your top can move. I'd give it at least 1/8" of room at each end.

Kirk

 

[mtr1]

I decided on hard wax oil, then paste wax. I going to leave the inside bare except the top of the top rail.

There is a provision for the top to move, I don't like to see it, so it has a v-shaped mortice on the reverse of the bearer, and the screws will pivot in this so the top can move. I hope that makes sense.

Richard, that's exactly what I used when I made this type of furniture before. Blacksmith made fittings and nails, this furniture was all shipped to Holland, and as long as there was some old rail or drawer it was classed as an antique from the Dutch point of view.

 

[Lee Brubaker]

I really like your blanket box Mark. Just an aside on the history of blanket boxes. Originally they were not for storing blankets & they had no lids. Clothing was stored in them & without a lid a blanket was spread across the top hence.....blanket box.

Lee

 

[sometimewoodworker]

I really like your blanket box Mark. Just an aside on the history of blanket boxes. Originally they were not for storing blankets & they had no lids. Clothing was stored in them & without a lid a blanket was spread across the top hence.....blanket box.
Lee

That is an interesting idea. Can you give the source for your statement? And why a self respecting carpenter or cabinet maker would produce something like that.

I ask because having looked at a few that are 17th century the saw marks and interior detail show the the lid is of a very similar age. This is clear as in the one we own all of the boards were planked by hand not machine. This is one of the good indicators of minimum age, as are the corroded bottoms of the supporting legs.

An example is here 17th Century blanket box and another and one more