Blade size in chop saw?

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pe2dave

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I've a Makita chop saw, 305 x 30 is the normal (wood) blade size.
Saxton offer a well priced 250 x 30 metal blade.
I want to saw through a decent chunk of steel (rly line pce).
Cutting edge will be slower (no bad thing?).

Any disadvantages known please?
 
Will it cut through close to the fence? Make a cardboard one and see how far it goes into the slot.
Apart from that is the machine even vaguely designed for steel.
Angle grinder would perhaps be better?
 
Will it cut through close to the fence? Make a cardboard one and see how far it goes into the slot.
Apart from that is the machine even vaguely designed for steel.
Angle grinder would perhaps be better?
It has the sliders, hence going 'back' to the fence is not an issue.
No, designed for wood, but blades for metal are available - my thoughts (guesses), the slower tip
speed would help rather than hinder (even if the job took longer?)
I like the 'paper' blade - would check out the depth, though turning it would not be a problem,
darned thing weighs a ton :)

ps
Just reading your hacksaw piece - enlightening, thanks.
 
I can't see damage to the saw unless it is down to my use?
What can cause the damage is the hot metal sparks that will melt and stick to the plastic strips each side of the blade and then you need to really clean it otherwise you will get bits of metal in your wood.

Do you have a 9 inch grinder, that would be one solution otherwise you may need to spend some time with a decent hacksaw, using a little cutting lube.
 
Point taken about 'damage' to saw parts - tks.
No, and a 4.5" which isn't up to the job.
I guess I'm looking at a local machine shop.
 
For metal- depending on the shape or size of it is best cut using a specific metal saw.

I'd a number of sleeves to cut in 2mm thick brass tubing, at about 25mm diameter. as sleeves for some door knob handles Tried the hacksaw and made a complete 4r5e of it, really bad, and im kind of used to cutting straight, but these were only fit for the bin.

I've an angle grinder and saw some info on YT about cheap cutting stands to hold the grinder, complete with adjustable vices and eventually bought one, though must say i was put off by how cheap they were and i associated cheap with nasty.

Night and day. The cuts, after a few to align were perfect, and the safety aspect (especially using a grinder) was well appreciated.
The stand cost me £15 on ebay new, of mass production but dont let that put you off, it is totally fit for purpose, makes the job a breeze and again as safe as houses.

Obviously there are limits to the sizes it can cut, but the fact it holds it straight and accurate is well worth buying.
You didnt say the size you need cut, but if its not too big, id recommend this stand, and although its for a 4 1/2", there will be something similar for a 9"
Angle grinder stand.jpg
 
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I will add that many years ago I lent a guy a reasonable quality mitre saw and just thought he would be cutting wood, got the saw back in a really sorry state and discovered that he had fitted a grinding wheel so that he could cut a load of bricks in half lengthwise. Luckily we came to a deal where he kept the saw and paid half towards a new one for me.
 
I know it sounds awful but don’t under estimate a new decent HSS blade in a hacksaw. Plan to do it over a number of sessions and take it slow and steady, l’ve cut several RSJ this way. To make it quicker you can use your 4.5 inch angle grinder to cut in from all sides as deep as you can and then finish off with a hacksaw.

The evolution mitre saws run slower and have a metal cutting blade, I kept my old one for such jobs, the metal cutting blade soon wears out and the hot swarf is horrible though, shame you‘re not closer you could have borrowed it.
 
I know it sounds awful but don’t under estimate a new decent HSS blade in a hacksaw. Plan to do it over a number of sessions and take it slow and steady, l’ve cut several RSJ this way. To make it quicker you can use your 4.5 inch angle grinder to cut in from all sides as deep as you can and then finish off with a hacksaw.

The evolution mitre saws run slower and have a metal cutting blade, I kept my old one for such jobs, the metal cutting blade soon wears out and the hot swarf is horrible though, shame you‘re not closer you could have borrowed it.
Ahead of you :) Just tried. 24 tpi blade, near new. as per @Myfordman ordered some decent 18tpi blades.
5 minutes did make a mark, though it 'sings' horribly!
Wondering about 'a number of sessions', even if I nick it with the angle grinder (I think I'm even more frit than Myfordman :) )
I guess I could try it, then ask the local workshop for a price.

Thanks for the suggestions folks.
 
Wrap up. Email from Saxton, were wary of using a metal blade of lesser size, probably covering their rear,
but with concerns here, I'll not buy a blade.
 
A suggestion. Look up water jet cutting services in your area. Some have the machines big enough to slice through the track in minutes and if you are making and anvil, cut the major shape at the same time. A plasma cutter might cut it as well.

Pete
 
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