Blade size in chop saw?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Wondering about 'a number of sessions', even if I nick it with the angle grinder (I think I'm even more frit than Myfordman :) )
I guess I could try it, then ask the local workshop for a price.

Thanks for the suggestions folks.

Found out. One session and I've cut through 12mm with a 24 tpi blade!
A "few" more I think :unsure:
 
Found out. One session and I've cut through 12mm with a 24 tpi blade!
A "few" more I think :unsure:

You need a session ale to go with it, the 3rd or 4th session will be feeling quite good 😊

More seriously could it have become hardened by use or age? Any merit in tempering or is it the current hardness you’re after?

ps. Don’t forget to try some cutting fluid, even with a hacksaw can make quite a difference.
 
More seriously could it have become hardened by use or age? Any merit in tempering or is it the current hardness you’re after?

ps. Don’t forget to try some cutting fluid, even with a hacksaw can make quite a difference.
From appearance it is used. Hardened? No idea.
Had I cutting fluid, I'd use it Richard.
 
The track gangs use a large disc cutter that hooks onto the rail and gives them a nice clean cut ready for the thermal welding process. Going to be tough using a hacksaw!
 
Ahead of you :) Just tried. 24 tpi blade, near new. as per @Myfordman ordered some decent 18tpi blades.
5 minutes did make a mark, though it 'sings' horribly!
Wondering about 'a number of sessions', even if I nick it with the angle grinder (I think I'm even more frit than Myfordman :) )
I guess I could try it, then ask the local workshop for a price.

Thanks for the suggestions folks.
If you are using hacksaw there’s only one blade in my opinion to use. Sandvick blades are probably double the price but brilliant in use.
 
And start at the bottom, apparently the top becomes case hardened and almost impossible to cut without the correct cutter, but is brittle so breaks clean.
 
Obvious problem with using a wood saw is that it runs way too fast. You will just wreck the blade, and probably the saw as well. Just hire a 9inch grinder and buy a stainless type narrow cutting disc, it will go through it like butter.
 
Metal cutting blades normally have a lower max RPM, so wood saws are not really suitable.

I have a Large SIP abrasive cut off saw, an Evolution rage metal saw and a 125mm angle grinder using Aldi 1mm cutting disks (11 for about £3). I use the angle grinder the most, even on thick metal. The blade is so thin, it is removing very little metal and cuts surprisingly well. The shape of a rail track would be problematic, but a new disk will cut about 35mm deep, so you might have to end up cutting a small bit in the middle with a hacksaw.
 
There is significant risk in using a wood chop saw for metal in that the motor and other electrics are not necessarily protected against ingress of conductive swarf.

Evolution and other multi-material saws have filters to prevent metal getting into the motor.

Don't go there. It's dangerous and could wreck your saw motor or worse.

Water jet (also known as "profile") cutting is excellent, but I would go to the local blacksmith or small engineering shop and pay them to do it with the right tools. Should only be a tenner or so and far far less painful than a hacksaw etc. What's your time worth?
 
I wonder where your rail came from. British Steel used to make special rails out of work hardeneing steel for use inside stations - it could withstand the higher level of wear and tear experienced there.

Have to say, i'd just burn through a few cutting discs and flap disks and do it with the 5 inch angle grinder. I doubt there's much if any part of the section that you couldn't reach coming at it from all round.
 
Tried with my small grinder + cutting disk. To risk averse to continue.
(Guess), it could be anything up to 100 years old? Didn't cut like 'hard' steel (sound etc)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top