Blade setting block

Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) · 20 May 2007

For several years, since I began using HNT Gordon woodies, I have set the blade using a hardwood block, as recommended by Terry Gordon.

See: http://www.hntgordon.com.au/bladesettingsmoothtry.htm

For the past few months I have been using a different type of setting block, and it has provided significant benefits for setting both wooden and metal mallet-adjusted smoothing planes for fine shavings.

The setting block is a glass sheet glued to a MDF backing.

I had concerns that the hard glass may damage/fracture a sharp edge, but so far my experience is that this does not occur. I guess I am trying to explain why, and the only answer I can come up with is that I am both gentle in the way I do it, and that the smoothness of the glass surface does not "grab" the edge the way a metal surface might.

I certainly do not just drop the blade through the mouth opening. I place it carefully and let it rest on the glass, then press the wedge in firmly or tighten the lever cap screw, as indicated. The blade projection that results is far more consistent than when I use a wooden block, and the shavings are finer. It is a simple matter to set the plane up for thicker shavings at this stage (with a gentle tap of the mallet).

Anyone else tried this?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Philly · 20 May 2007

Hmm....interesting. I'm off to the workshop to try it, Derek.
Cheers
Philly

engineer one · 23 May 2007

derek how hard do you push the wedge to get proper support and a decent shaving?

i still find that i am not sure about the fit of the wedge. some i think is to do with the taper of the wedge, but do you just hand push, or use a mallet?

paul :wink:

philly how did you find it? :?

Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) · 23 May 2007

Hi Paul

I think that a well fitted wedge should be able to be pushed in by hand, and that this should hold the iron fairly well. A light tap of a mallet is an alternative if you lack the finger strength.

Wedges that do not fit well - have high/low points - tend to be forced in with a mallet blow(s). This has the effect of pushing the blade forward. Even the friction when pushing the wedge in will cause the iron to move forward, but the amount of projection is minimal against the unyielding surface of the glass. One of the signs of a poorly fitted wedge (just my opinion) is that you end up with more projection than you want (especially if you use a soft setting surface).

The wedges on the Gordon planes have tended to be close to 95% perfect. The wedge on the JK plane needed about a 1/32" removed from one side. With these sorted, I can push in the wedge and the iron will be 95% firm. So the remainder is a light mallet tap.

With the glass setting plate there is minimal projection and the shaving that I get are very fine, perfect for a finishing smoother. It is easier to tap the iron down for increased projection than raise it up for less, for the latter action will loosen the wedge as well.

Using a lever cap is similar to a wedge - there needs to be even pressure across the intersection of the cap and iron. I discussed this a little in my Spier renovation (http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/plane/inFillSmoother/renovInfillSmooth9.asp).

Of course, I'd like to hear of the experiences here of others. I still have a knee jerk reaction to the use of glass, because I perceive it to be a hard material that will damage the edge.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Philly · 23 May 2007

Derek
Been using my glass plate to set up my woodies the last few days - you certainly get a finer setting than using a wooden block. Can't say if it has a detrimental effect on the iron - haven't noticed anything yet (although I have been very gentle with it!)
I'll continue to use this method and report back - thanks for bringing this to our attention!
Cheers
Philly