Big mistake

[Kittyhawk]

I intended to spray enamel paint through my airbrush and inadvertently reduced the paint with isopropyl alcohol instead of thinners. Realizing this I straight away ran thinners through the airbrush and stripped it down and cleaned it and did the same with the little glass mixing pot but notice that the pot has small flakes of some residue adhering pretty tenaciously to the glass so assume the airbrush innards will be the same. I though acetone might remove it but it had no effect. I need advise for an effective solvent please.

 

[Bingy man]

I intended to spray enamel paint through my airbrush and inadvertently reduced the paint with isopropyl alcohol instead of thinners. Realizing this I straight away ran thinners through the airbrush and stripped it down and cleaned it and did the same with the little glass mixing pot but notice that the pot has small flakes of some residue adhering pretty tenaciously to the glass so assume the airbrush innards will be the same. I though acetone might remove it but it had no effect. I need advise for an effective solvent please.

My initial thoughts would be to repeat the process with thinners - cellulose I’m assuming , I have no experience with airbrushing but if it’s what I would use. Soak any small components in the thinners and repeat again if necessary. Good luck

 

[ajs]

From memory you have one of the external mix "modeller's airbrushes" (same pattern as https://www.amazon.co.uk/Master-Airbrush-Single-Action-External-Siphon/dp/B000FJQ26M ) which works in your favour here due to the simplicity and ruggedness of the design.

I'd probably strip the contaminated metal parts off as far as possible and leave them soaking in the power solvent of your choice overnight - acetone and cellulose thinners have already been mentioned which were what I immediately thought of too. I doubt they'll shift it but will hopefully soften it up for a more "mechanical" cleaning. I wouldn't expose the plastic to such prolonged treatment (brief rinse) but hopefully it hasn't stuck as hard there in the absence of a primer. Experiment with cotton buds, wooden cocktail sticks, paper clips, a fine scriber etc, you should find something to lift it without too much effort. The jar and nozzle lid are probably a write off for a sensible use of your time given they're 10 for £15 in the Amazon, but the paint path is straight in the tool itself on those guns and generally amenable to poking and prodding.

 

[MF1000]

MEK might be your answer …..methyl ethyl ketone - the solvent in permanent markers etc. Can be found on Amazon

 

[Sachakins]

Given the quality of your work, and assuming your not using the likes of Harder Steenback Evo air brushes, then maybe a replace air brush would be a wiser option, say an airbrush along the lines of this type.
ROSEMARY 0.2/0.3/0.5mm Dual-Action Gravity Feed Airbrush Gun Airbrush Painting Kits with Quick Connector, Multicolor https://amzn.eu/d/h2gE07C

I can't vouch for the brand but just show it as a guide idea.

 

[Kittyhawk]

Thanks for the replies.
I have stripped the airbrush down as far as possible and cleaned all the removable parts, and left the main body in a tray of acetone for a couple of days. On reassembly shot a lot of turps through it and the spray pattern looks good so think all is well.

ROSEMARY 0.2/0.3/0.5mm Dual-Action Gravity Feed Airbrush Gun Airbrush Painting Kits with Quick Connector, Multicolor https://amzn.eu/d/h2gE07C

This is exactly the airbrush that I have, identical in every respect including packaging. Mine is branded 'Blackridge' and I have seen it under other brand names as well. I assume the product is rebranded for each country of sale. I wonder why they do that?