Better extraction for Kity 439 planer/thicknesser?
- Thread starter pike
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Mike,
Yeah it was a real lesson learned for me. It took me many years of hobby woodworking to finally accept the P/T needs that sort of movement. It's like a brand new tool when it's working properly. Maybe other P/T have better dust extraction design? Anyone buying a P/T should be told they also need a proper HVLP. Possibly a good example to put in any sticky on extraction.
I'm quite surprised how noisy the FM300BC is though. I had half expected it to be quiet compared to my SIP01929 simply because of the motor.
Cheers,
Carl.
Yeah it was a real lesson learned for me. It took me many years of hobby woodworking to finally accept the P/T needs that sort of movement. It's like a brand new tool when it's working properly. Maybe other P/T have better dust extraction design? Anyone buying a P/T should be told they also need a proper HVLP. Possibly a good example to put in any sticky on extraction.
I'm quite surprised how noisy the FM300BC is though. I had half expected it to be quiet compared to my SIP01929 simply because of the motor.
Cheers,
Carl.
It may perceptibly be noisy, but I certainly can't hear it over the noise of the machines its extracting from.
Having the remote control makes a difference, you can turn it off when still standing at whatevery you are working with/on.
Mike
Having the remote control makes a difference, you can turn it off when still standing at whatevery you are working with/on.
Mike
I wonder if it's my wooden shed making it louder as I find it almost distracting. It's not terrible, I'm just wondering if there's anything I can do to improve it. I've got noisier tools but this one shakes up into action and really rumbles. I've already tried putting it on some rubber flooring with no obvious change. Do you use the Y connector it comes with?
Right now my PT and bandsaw are right next to it so turning on and off is easy enough. I might look into a remote as my layout changes.
Right now my PT and bandsaw are right next to it so turning on and off is easy enough. I might look into a remote as my layout changes.
Eric The Viking
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Just a quick update on the 439: used it a couple of week ends ago for the first time in ages. Blunt knives; swap over necessary. I was also getting a bit of snipe off the planer.
But I have a fast and pretty much foolproof method of knife changing:
When It's done, I do a sanity hopping-check with a thin strip of wood at either end of the knives. They should pull it forward by about 1/8" (3/16" absolute max.). It's more important that all four ends are the same than an absolute value, but if the projection is too little you get snipe at the beginning of the stock (too much projection gives snipe at the end). I find the thickness of 80g paper is near perfect.
The thicknesser shouldn't cause snipe at all (or at least, I can't see how it can unless the machine is being dramatically abused somehow).
Hope that's useful to someone - the magnetic-clampy-micrometer things can't work, incidentally, for several reasons:
The plate-glass method ought to work for other machines too, and you might use anything rigid and flat instead of my piece of plate glass. But it guarantees the knives are parallel to the outfeed table and the right height, so all you need to do then is check the fence is square to that, and you're good to go. It takes about ten mins to change to a sharp set of knives (longer to find everything than actually do the task). You do need quite a lot of weight against the springs, but it's over the outfeed table's mounting bolts so won't cause it to bend or sag.
But I have a fast and pretty much foolproof method of knife changing:
- Collect together:
- Two sheets of clean, dry 80g A4 from the office,
- one of the smaller bits of toughened glass I use for Scary Sharp,
- some heavy weights (the 3/4" steel fishplate I use as an anvil, and a small toolbox full of spanners would do it)
- 10mm open-ended spanner with a narrow end
- Work gloves, to avoid "paper cuts"
- Remove everything sticking out above the planer outfeed table (fence and mounting, guard and its arm).
- Rotate the block so a blade edge is exactly TDC (my Kity has alignment marks on the bearing housings). Remove the blunt knife and replace with one from the spare set. Push well down in against the springs and temporarily tighten a couple of the bolts.
- put one sheet of A4 on outfeed table so the end comes just to the ends of the fingers of the table.
- Being careful to keep the blade TDC, put the second sheet over the first, overlapping so that it extends to just cover the blade position.
- Very gently put the glass plate on top of both sheets of paper and so that one edge of it is just over the knife, and weight it down.
- release the bolts gently so the knife comes up to touch the paper sheet. Carefully tighten everything up so it's good.
- Repeat for the other side.
When It's done, I do a sanity hopping-check with a thin strip of wood at either end of the knives. They should pull it forward by about 1/8" (3/16" absolute max.). It's more important that all four ends are the same than an absolute value, but if the projection is too little you get snipe at the beginning of the stock (too much projection gives snipe at the end). I find the thickness of 80g paper is near perfect.
The thicknesser shouldn't cause snipe at all (or at least, I can't see how it can unless the machine is being dramatically abused somehow).
Hope that's useful to someone - the magnetic-clampy-micrometer things can't work, incidentally, for several reasons:
- the planer beds are anodised white metal castings, so not magnetic,
- they aren't removable in use to get at the cutter block
- even if you could get the magnetic thingysto fit, the fingers are slightly angled, presumably so stock doesn't jam against them if the knife height is wrong.
- When stuck on the drum, there's no built-in reference to the outfeed table, so you'll spend forever (and waste a lot of test stock), getting it all correct.
The plate-glass method ought to work for other machines too, and you might use anything rigid and flat instead of my piece of plate glass. But it guarantees the knives are parallel to the outfeed table and the right height, so all you need to do then is check the fence is square to that, and you're good to go. It takes about ten mins to change to a sharp set of knives (longer to find everything than actually do the task). You do need quite a lot of weight against the springs, but it's over the outfeed table's mounting bolts so won't cause it to bend or sag.
I just put the cutting block roughly where I think it's at it's highest point, use two heavy lumps of iron sat on the outfeed table and pushing down on the blades, then tighten. The bit I need to do better is maybe lock the block in position while I'm setting the blades.
If I've ever had snipe I've not noticed. I used to get terrible snip on a previous thicknesser.
If I've ever had snipe I've not noticed. I used to get terrible snip on a previous thicknesser.
I found this thread most interesting as i was having exactly the same problem of chips staying in the planer with either of my [I THINK] 1000cu m extractors.
So i broke open the piggy bank and bought a 2000 cu m / hr from axminster, [as above] and now it's far, far better.
The only downside is that as it's bigger, it's more awkward to fit the pipe which worked really well with the previous Perform extractor. However I still recommend buying these toilet pipe adaptors to get the hose into the extractor.
So i broke open the piggy bank and bought a 2000 cu m / hr from axminster, [as above] and now it's far, far better.
The only downside is that as it's bigger, it's more awkward to fit the pipe which worked really well with the previous Perform extractor. However I still recommend buying these toilet pipe adaptors to get the hose into the extractor.
Attachments
Looks good. My only problem is wanting the planer to be portable so needing a longer run than that, which makes it still not great. My extractor needs to be in a corner. When you go up to 3m or so it can struggle even with a decent extractor, using flexible hose.
Doingupthehouse
Established Member
I have the DX5000, it can't cope properly with my Jet JPT260 P/T, I get a lot of blockages. Extremely noisy as well - it's the first machhine I'll upgrade when I can afford it.pike":rmo8c3n1 said:
Simon
