johnnyb
Established Member
Just a warning if you've got a particularly efficient stove it will knacker the plate if it gets to hot. Some have a bi metal plate to lift it if it overheats. I just stick a bit of tile underneath....
It's not so much the plate as the peltier device that generates the lecticity to power the fan: it's very fragile especially with regard to over temperature.Just a warning if you've got a particularly efficient stove it will knacker the plate if it gets to hot. Some have a bi metal plate to lift it if it overheats. I just stick a bit of tile underneath....
Yep - everything makes a difference (disc rotation speed, blade disc diameter, blade area and area shape, number of blades, cross-sectional profile of blades, average pitch of blades, etc...) - and each of those features are interdependent. It just means that you just have to "trust" that the design of your chosen product is functional enough. Each of them will have gone through prototyping, testing and development - to varying degrees. So will at least work to a varying degree or other...Reading this thread and seeing the wildly differing experiences/ opinions I wonder if there could be differences in the efficiencies of the various fans, sure they will all spin round, probably at similer speeds, but I wonder if say the pitch of the blades would make a diffence?
Great idea... But do really you drink that much tea/coffee in a day...?
This is very interesting to me!I had an electric fan blowing across the front of the stove in along room, and a 4" fan just below the coving at the other end of the room blowing out into the stair well. In the winter when both fans had been on for while the difference upstairs was noticeable, had I stayed in the house I'd have changed the 4" fan for a 6" one. It doesn't really apply now as I have an insulated 6" duct running from the ceiling above the stove to an inline fan and a Y piece taking the excess heat down into the other side of the bedroom and kitchen
View attachment 193571.
My Son bought an old cottage with a Villager wood stove which had a back boiler fitted and with a pump activated by a heat sensitive switch it ran about 4 rads. However what we found was that fired with wood there was very little heat output from the stove, and very little radiated heat either, the heat was sucked out of it by the back boiler, I was really surprised by its poor performance, and it went a way to explaining why the cast iron grate had been burnt out by successive roaring coal fires, maybe better designed stoves would be better??This is very interesting to me!
The biggest frustration I have with using my wood burner is that I’m not utilising the heat out to the rest of the house (extended bungalow so quite spread)
When it was installed I did have a bit of a chat about getting a boiler stove, thinking that if I could at least have a few extra radiators added that it would benefit everywhere else. The installer wasn’t keen so we carried on as standard.
I’ve wondered a few times about ducting. Also about a central mvhr.
Can I ask for more details on your ducting system please?
Did you install it yourself?
Do you think the fan is essential or could it work passively?
Are there any issues with it such as noise from room to room?
How about compartmentation / fire risk? Is it building control approved (not that it would necessarily stop me)
Thanks!
That’s kinda good to hear from my side - I’m not going to be changing the stove now and it makes me glad I didn’t go for one in the first place!My Son bought an old cottage with a Villager wood stove which had a back boiler fitted and with a pump activated by a heat sensitive switch it ran about 4 rads. However what we found was that fired with wood there was very little heat output from the stove, and very little radiated heat either, the heat was sucked out of it by the back boiler, I was really surprised by its poor performance, and it went a way to explaining why the cast iron grate had been burnt out by successive roaring coal fires, maybe better designed stoves would be better??
Steve
I never thought about building control, I must admit. I can't see why it would cause any fire risk - the stove itself isn't a fire risk (I have two different fire alarms and a CO detector near it as well). I doubt it would work well passively - it needs the throughput to be effective. There is a slight noise, but nothing to worry about - mine's probably noisier that it needs be atm as the fan blades are probably getting dirty. Insulated ducting is available from a multitude of sites as are the fittings. My duct is insulated over and underneath as well, and runs about six feet from the vent over the stove to a "Y" piece, then on fifteen feet or so to both the kitchen and the bedroom. I took the insect grids out of the inlets/outlets as being unnecessary, and turned wooden "halos" to tidy the ends up. The fan is one of these - https://www.airconcentre.co.uk/prod...CAZwCiFenbZ6GSnx5YBGsWjMKDgNz3qYU2InFnI&gQT=1This is very interesting to me!
The biggest frustration I have with using my wood burner is that I’m not utilising the heat out to the rest of the house (extended bungalow so quite spread)
When it was installed I did have a bit of a chat about getting a boiler stove, thinking that if I could at least have a few extra radiators added that it would benefit everywhere else. The installer wasn’t keen so we carried on as standard.
I’ve wondered a few times about ducting. Also about a central mvhr.
Can I ask for more details on your ducting system please?
Did you install it yourself?
Do you think the fan is essential or could it work passively?
Are there any issues with it such as noise from room to room?
How about compartmentation / fire risk? Is it building control approved (not that it would necessarily stop me)
Thanks!
Thanks. I’ll have a look in more detail later.I never thought about building control, I must admit. I can't see why it would cause any fire risk - the stove itself isn't a fire risk (I have two different fire alarms and a CO detector near it as well). I doubt it would work well passively - it needs the throughput to be effective. There is a slight noise, but nothing to worry about - mine's probably noisier that it needs be atm as the fan blades are probably getting dirty. Insulated ducting is available from a multitude of sites as are the fittings. My duct is insulated over and underneath as well, and runs about six feet from the vent over the stove to a "Y" piece, then on fifteen feet or so to both the kitchen and the bedroom. I took the insect grids out of the inlets/outlets as being unnecessary, and turned wooden "halos" to tidy the ends up. The fan is one of these - https://www.airconcentre.co.uk/prod...CAZwCiFenbZ6GSnx5YBGsWjMKDgNz3qYU2InFnI&gQT=1
42w, so not expensive to run for hours. My wife and son installed it - not difficult, both of them being practically inept - and it cost at the time about £150. About £200 last I looked, possibly a little more now. The unforeseen but welcome consequence is that it makes the room the stove is in more comfortable when it's really pumping out the heat, it puts the excess elsewhere.
It would cause a massive fire risk from the point of the fire spreading, just like we now have fire rated downlighters that help slow the spread of a fire into cavities and voids a ducting system has the same potential. In the event of a fire the ducting could supply oxygen to keep it burning even with all doors and windows closed and a fire could escape through the ducting into another area so spreading faster. In commercial ducting systems there are fire dampers that have fusable links that a fire melts and the damper closes, there are also fire dampers linked into the fire detection system that will have actuators that close the damper when the fire system is activated all to prevent the spread and supply of oxygen to a fire.I never thought about building control, I must admit. I can't see why it would cause any fire risk
my mother in laws house has warm air heating -a gas gas boiler which uses air ducting nit water to spread the heat, I have to say its amazing how effective it is, the amount of air that seems to come out of the vents is very small -you certainly cant feel any air movement in the room generallyThis is very interesting to me!
The biggest frustration I have with using my wood burner is that I’m not utilising the heat out to the rest of the house (extended bungalow so quite spread)
Gas can be turned up and down in seconds to adjust for demand. Wood stoves cannot. Hence the need for heat storage as a buffer for whole house heating, typically a very big water tank.my mother in laws house has warm air heating -a gas gas boiler which uses air ducting nit water to spread the heat, I have to say its amazing how effective it is, the amount of air that seems to come out of the vents is very small -you certainly cant feel any air movement in the room generally
I would imagine a vent taking hot air from a wood stove to other parts of the house would be very effective, although you would need a way for the air to circulate back ideally
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