Best way to cut a 3mm sliver on a bandsaw?

[dvddvd]

I have a piece of Elm 120mm x 40mm and want to cut it so it's 120mm x 37mm.

I've just bought a bandsaw would it be better to cut it so the 3mm piece is against the fence? or to the right of the blade, which would be the most accurate? thanks

 

[sams93]

I have a piece of Elm 120mm x 40mm and want to cut it so it's 120mm x 37mm.

I've just bought a bandsaw would it be better to cut it so the 3mm piece is against the fence? or to the right of the blade, which would be the most accurate? thanks

You always set it up so that the dimension you want (in your case 37mm) of your desired piece is between the fence and the blade.

So, in your instance, you want to set it up so that the fence is 37mm away from the blade. Bear in mind the blade will destroy about 1.5mm (called the kerf) as it cuts, so it won't leave a 3mm sliver.

If it is critical that the dimensions are accurate then I use a combination square to set it close to where I think is perfect, and then make a small test cut into a bit of scrap plywood or something to check the cut is accurate. Then I can make very minor adjustments tapping the fence left/right a tad to get it perfectly accurate.

Remember that the bandsaw is always going to leave a relatively rough finish, even with a fine toothed blade. It would likely then need sanding before use. There is a sticky thread in this forum with a table for advice on the appropriate blade TPI for given thicknesses of wood (you haven't told us the thickness of your piece). If you are wanting the best finish, then you would use the highest TPI you can for the thickness, but a really slow feed rate to avoid burning.



If you wanted to do the opposite for example, i.e If you wanted a 3mm thick piece, then you would set it up so that the blade is 3mm away from the fence. that way you are able to pass the piece through multiple times taking a 3mm cut each time. This is how people cut veneers.

 

[--Tom--]

Whilst you can, you’ll still want to saw thick and plane thin, so may be quicker and easier to just mark lines and plane to them.

 

[Yojevol]

The bandsaw is not a precision cutting tool and one shouldn't get too reliant on a straight fence as a means of control. You may have some success if you have a new blade but as it wears it will develop a mind of it's own and will tend to wander. In this state the blade will still have a lot of life in it so the easiest method is to cut by eye close to a drawn line. Finish the operation by planing to the line. If you want a decent finish you'll need to plane after sawing anyway.
A useful accessory for use with a part worn blade is a pin fence. This is a simple post set just in front of the saw's teeth. This controls the width of material being removed but allows one to vary the angle of approach to compensate for blade wander. A simple pin fence can made as an attachment to the straight fence.
Brian

 

[Ttrees]

Cut oversize like what you have already, and plane to the lines is the usually the case.
For something that small it would only take a few swipes with a handplane.

 

[Orraloon]

Like others are suggesting is just plane it. Its possible to do with a real sharp blade and a well set up saw but with a very fine skim like that there is a chance it will wander and spoil the piece. You will have to finish off with a plane in any case so just gauge a line and plane down to it.
If I were to do that on the bandsaw I would do it as Brian has described with a pin/single point fence.
Regards
John