Best way to create thin strips?

[xraymtb]

I’m embarking on a project that requires around 30 strips of 50x6mm - 3m long.

I’m normally a hand tool guy but not this time! I have a small bandsaw (the Aldi special) but nothing else powered other than a drill and sander.

As sawn boards are around 10% of the cost of buying strips I’m thinking of investing but need help to decide the best route? Bandsaw and a small p/t to clean up? Table saw?

 

[Jacob]

Bandsaw, and as usual - the biggest you can get.
Good new blades from Tuff Saws.
If the saw cuts accurately enough then a bench top thicknesser will do the rest. One side, then the other, perhaps a third pass.
Wax the table or better still use a low friction insert bed to reduce friction; 12mm solid ptfe sheet as it also reduces the likelihood of the planer ripping long 6mm pieces apart. And you can go even thinner if you need to.
PS What are you making?

 

[Kayen]

I would definitely use your bandsaw rather than a table saw as you'll be losing as much as you're making with a table saw.

 

[Fitzroy]

I think it depends on the required accuracy of the strips. I'd plane and thickness a board to 50mm, rip off 7mm strips on the bandsaw, then thickness strips to 6mm. You'd need to start with thicker than 50mm stock which will add cost.

Alternatively you break down say 25mm thick boards into 50mm widths, plane and thickness square, then rip into strips and thickness to size.

The risk with both these approaches being that the strips will move after you rip them thin; IMHO the likelihood of them staying straight over a 3m length is low!

You'll lose likely 1/4-1/3 of your base material though the machining. I'd avoid a table saw as with a blade kerf of 3mm you'll loose at least 1/3 of your material when you cut off the final strip at 6mm wide.

 

[Inspector]

I would thickness the stock to 50mm, joint/ plane both edges, saw both off, thickness when all are cut and repeat. If you work several boards at a time it goes pretty quick. Laminating some curved pieces?

Pete

 

[xraymtb]

I would thickness the stock to 50mm, joint/ plane both edges, saw both off, thickness when all are cut and repeat. If you work several boards at a time it goes pretty quick. Laminating some curved pieces?

Pete

Nothing so fancy! Building a wooden surfboard.

Should probably clarify - the strips will form the deck over an internal ply frame. As such a little twist won’t matter as it will all be glued and clamped onto the curved form. The edges will be chamfered as required to follow the curve as the strips build up the width across the board. I need one face ready to glue to the frame. The other will be surfaced as the deck is faired and finished however I need a reasonably consistent thickness so as to not upset the curves and not have any dips or hollows to deal with.

Sounds like a planer and/or thicknesser with the bandsaw is the best approach. Ruled out table saw based on the feedback.

 

[TRITON]

What you really need is a drum sander.
I did a basket weave for a large screen I made a while ago and initially tried to thickness down to the 4mm i needed in order for the cherry wood to weave in and out without breaking. I put it through on a board to be able to thickness that low but the rollers picked it up and shredded it. So I got access to a drum sander and used that which did the job to a very flexible 3mm without so much as a snag.

Obviously drum sanders cost a pretty penny, but theres plenty of vids on you tube showing DIY ones.
But what to take note of is most of these diy affairs look to create a very wide drum, and this involved making the drum itself, then working out how to wind on the sandpaper, how that is secured etc etc.

However, if you need reasonably narrow strips, then you could utilise the bobbin sander type that either fits on to a bench drill, or from a bobbin sander itself.
You could use that to create a small jig,powered by a drill. Im sure something 4-6" long could be easily constructed, in fact, you could make it quite techie, like a mini proper drum sander.

Something similar sized to the proxxon thicknesser but for drum sanding narrow strips. Not open ended, but a 4 or 5" capacity

 

[Jameshow]

Where about are you?

I might have access to such boards foc.... Swedish Pine though.

 

[xraymtb]

Where about are you?

I might have access to such boards foc.... Swedish Pine though.

I’m just outside Newcastle. Could be willing to travel a bit for freebies though

 

[Trainee neophyte]

This may help: Building Panels

 

[Jameshow]

I’m just outside Newcastle. Could be willing to travel a bit for freebies though

I'm away till after next weekend but can ask when I'm next in the woodstore!

I fancy a sup using then tbh.
Know of any plans?

West Yorkshire btw could meet on A1

 

[xraymtb]

I'm away till after next weekend but can ask when I'm next in the woodstore!

I fancy a sup using then tbh.
Know of any plans?

West Yorkshire btw could meet on A1

That sounds good. Let me know when you’re back - it’s going to be a while before I’m ready for them anyway.

I might be able to help with SUP plans - I’ll check when I’m next on the proper computer.

 

[sawtooth-9]

What are you going to do with the strips.
Are you going to laminate ?
I cut 3 mm strips on the rip saw and laminate these to make a 15 mm thick " U " shape
The slightly rough finish of the rip saw provides a great epoxy bonding surface

 

[Jameshow]

Wooden surf board....

Sea kayak might be a better option for me!



https://images.app.goo.gl/vDzECaxxiRJ6p3eR7

 

[TRITON]

Wooden surf board....

Sea kayak might be a better option for me!



https://images.app.goo.gl/vDzECaxxiRJ6p3eR7

That would be 1000x better, and more versatile, and probably looks superb.

Far as i remember theres a few on ebay do pre prepared strips with cove and bead edging .

I think this is worth a kayak/canoe build vid from YouTube. Inspire us all.

Although this is the single person closed kayak type, i personally would go for the open canoe basically because you can carry gear in it easier.